Here I am

plan for my '69 Coronet

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Hey all! Thought I might solicit opinions from any/all who are interested in old Mopars.

I own a '69 Coronet 2dr sedan (post). I bought it in '95 in medium rough condition (but driveable and still titled) for $450, and then had to park it for 6 years (long story why). Recently, I have my car back, and now I am not sure what to do with it. I am sentimentally attached, so I don't want to sell it. Besides, it would cost me a lot of money to pickup a project Coronet/Charger/GTX later if I did (and it would probably need even more work).



Present condition: needs floor pan and trunk pan, and lower quarter patches (like all mopars seem to need). 318/904 that runs good if I could get the bad wiring figured out (ignition key is dead, but starter will turn over if shorted). Body is mostly straight, all the glass is there, and all the latches and such work. Rear window rot is minimal-- just a dime size hole. The car is very solid otherwise. All trim is present and straight. Interior is heat baked- dusty and brittle. I pulled the seat to assess the floorpan carnage. The old fella had riveted cookie sheets down as patches!! All that to say that the car is totally restorable/salvageable, and the stuff it needs is not that involved.



I don't think I should sell it, since it is a bottom-of-the-line Deluxe trim version. The car has no collector value at all (maybe 2500 if it were in twice as good a condition). It is worth much more to me.



The other hand is this: I can't give the car what it needs right now, so part of me thinks that keeping it is selfish-- like a teen mother unwilling to give up a baby for adoption. Meanwhile, the car slowly gets a little rougher, and I will have more work to do.



Should I sell it to give it a better chance at being restored?



Hmm... why do I get so stinking attached to anything that has scraps of my skin all over its bolts??





I will post my keep-it plan in a separate post. This is already too long. Sorry.
 
I have a 69 Coronet 440 4 door that I have just sitting. The sad thing is mine is in good shape. No rust, every thing works and runs good. It is green with the two black strips down it. Bought it about 10 years ago for $100 because the owner's son gave it a tune-up and could not adjust the duel points. One of the days I will restore it, all it needs is carpet and seats. I just have too many projects right now. I too will find something I think is cool and buy it and never get rid of it.



57 Studebaker wagon

50 Ford F1

49 International pu

74 Cadi Eldr.

76 CJ-5

79 Cherokee

69 Coronet 440

84 Isuzu diesel pu



I have some in Alaska, some in Texas, and some here in Oregon.
 
I may be 19, but I have a few mopars to compliment my daily driver toyota



66 coronet 440 - coughed up it's motor and trans for mydart sport :D



73 dart swinger /6, 904 - 48k original miles



74 dart sport - soon to be a 440/727 - I have the mounts, the motor and trans, need to find an oil pan and a converter still, car weighed 2800 with a 360 and a full tank of gas before :D



pics -



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Hohn...

69 Cornet post car that needs some love, eh?. With it not having barely any collector value restored(not many people searching for a car of this type)and its floor pans and trunk pan in bad shape if it was mine it would become a 69 Superbee or Cornet R/T clone. Pro-street style,back-halved,four linked and all the rot removed and new tin put in. Now after you get that done you find the wildest fat block(B or RB,well maybe even a Hemi would be nice)and drop it between the frame rails. May take some time doing this,but,its a work at your leisure to get it done. Just make sure when you do it that you make a statement with the paint,loud and wild like the car. I did one a few years ago out of a 69 post Coronet like it and seen it pay back more than you'd imagine.



will24...

Elverson,Hmmmm. .

Wonder if you'd like to give that 62 car in the background a new home,like here in York. I have been looking for a new home for the 557in Indy head Hemi to sit in and wallaaaa it pops up here. I want to do a 10" tire car for street shows and cruises. Let me know if your interested in parting with it... ... Andy
 
The 62 in the background is my buddy's dad's car. If you went to the house where my 66 was sitting when I took those pics, then you would REALLY see a few 62s... There are 5 at that house and his son 3 miles down the road has two more! One of them runs 11. 30s, one is still 100% a street car, driven to the track, work etc. and runs 12. 30s
 
Thanks all!

Hammer, you have caught my thought well. What I REALLY want to build is a street-legal race car, that just happens to look just like a BEE, idle decently, and have functioning heat and stereo. My dream setup would be HEMI ORANGE exterior, Black Six Pack hood, and black interior. Four link rear, maybe tubular front. From the outside, it would look like a BEE.

Under the hood would be a great low deck big block. 400-based 474 stroker with Ross pistons and Eagle Rods. Ultra-dyne solid cam (230° @. 050") with Schubeck lifters that pushed the valves on the Stage 6 or Indy SR heads. Compression would be a heady 14:1 or more, even with a smaller cam (Pro Stock runs over 17/1!). Pro-gear or Rollmaster timing chain.



Power goes to a Dynamic 9. 5" converter, then to the stout 727. Rear is a -489 8. 75, with a 3:73 ratio.



Chassis is a four-link rear with an 8-pt cage welded in.



The idea here is "comfortable race car"-- something ironic, I know. TO me, that means a race type chassis (to be legal when you tech in), idle under 1000 rpm, less than 3500rpm cruise, and maybe a little sound system. Heck, I might get really soft and putcarpet in the thing!!



Oh well, one can dream, can't one? For now, that's all I have...
 
I just Sold mine...

Tough Decision. Still don't know if it was the right one.



Hammer,



The guys that bought the car are from Pennsylvania.



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Hemi...

I am now cryin big tears that I did not know that was for sale. Looks like it would have made a nice ride. Never knew you had it or had it for sale,oh well... . It Happens:{ :{ :{



will24...

Guess I missed on this one too,man my luck stinks today. Better change my hat I guess,LOL.



Hohn...

Lots of lift and big inches do not make for a very nice idling street car,trust me on that. I am not sold on the Indy heads for the B/RB motors. Way to big of ports to flow well on the low end without major work to them. Ran as fast with a good set of 452's(my old superstock heads) that flowed killer numbers in my 66 car when it was here. At 496 inches with a good crank and a dominator it would run all day thru the flowmasters in the 9's with no juice at 3700 lbs wet. Never got to race the R/T clone I did as when I finished the body I had a mild stroker in it and went to a show out west and sold it,didn't plan on it,but,when the money is right,adios.



Dynamic's convertors are proven pieces and couple it with a Fireball trans and your set for those parts. A 4. 89 rear,crap,how tall a tire you want to run???. Even in my Challenger,when I use the tall tires,the most gear I EVER run is a 4. 56. 4. 88's will have it nosed over big time on the large end of the traps and kill the mph,not to mention the valve train. Twist a B/RB into orbit and into valve float and your screwed. Research my young man,email me if ya got any questions... ..... Andy
 
I miss my 69 Super Bee 4 speed

383 mag

Balanced

Edlebrock intake

Holley 3310

Doug Thorley headers

Crane cam

Accell dual point distributer,plugs,and wires

(remember the chain to keep from breaking motor mounts)

Flex fan

4 core radiator

Chrome air cleaner

traction bars

pinion snubber

Zoom 410/411 gears

steering collum mounted tach

custom front bucket seats

Muntz M888 8 track/with Clarion 6x9`s in the rear deck



:{ :{ :{ :{ :{ :{ :{ :{
 
I have a chevy apache that I intended as a resto project. after stripping it down to the frame I discovered it need more work then I originally intended (frame rot, floor pans, bed mounts) All minor fixes but more than I wanted for a restore. So out come the torches and in went a new frame, four link rear, slicks, 'glide, etc. I'm much happier with 'the statement' made by this version over the original.





Just trying to save for the 540 CID.
 
Hohn,

I don't know your budget, but the rear suspension under Mopar muscle cars work well. IMO 9 seconds and slower a 4 link is a waste of money. Buy a set of MP super stock springs for your car and set it up per the Mopar Performance Chassis book. I have seen many guys spend big bucks on 4-links an 14 inch wide slicks running 12 seconds in the 1/4 - I cant help but laugh at them. On the flip side is watching a nostalgia car set up right with the suspension that Ma Mopar put under it running 9's on 9 inch slicks.



My $0. 02 worth,

Matt
 
HEMI, it's a tough decision,isn't it? I now regret selling my '64 Max Wedge Belvedere S/S... . I rationalize it by telling myself that it was the right thing to do..... at the time..... :( ..... :{
 
Mopar SS springs

Matt, I have long thought that the SS springs would be the cheap way to get it to hook. When done, the car will be running about 600HP.



Will this give me crazy wheel hop with the SS springs, or are they designed to resist that well?



I have had some Mopar guys recommend the XHD stock springs with the staggered packs over the SS springs. Not sure why.



IS the longer front shackle the only thing needed to swap in the SS springs???



The most my car will ever see is 750 HP (incl 150 shot of juice). I don't need a 8 second chassis in a 10-11 second car.



Justin
 
The reason most guys have trouble with wheel hop is the suspension is set up wrong, or they are running traction bars on their mopar and don't set them right. If you set the stock Mopar rear up right you can do it with a few simple bolt on parts. You can probably set up your stock springs with two extra 1/2 springs on the right and one on the left and do some adjustments from there. Also you will need a pinion snubber set up to the trans tunnel, and loose shocks on the front of the car. That will probably make a very solid hooking car with a good pair of 10. 5 slicks. Best of all you don't have to butcher the fenders and trunk with tubs.
 
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