Here I am

Planning for Pole Building/Shop

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It is winter and I am trying to think through this. I am sure many members have been down this road, and welcome input. "Plan the work, work the plan."

Use

I have a travel trailer (assume 40 feet in length), a small power boat (assume 25 feet in length), small utility trailer, plan to have a compact tractor and implements, and a truck to store. I’d also like to have space for a bathroom, workbench, and storage lockers. I dream of having a concrete floor area with a lift. My initial thought is 30 feet wide by 60 feet long by 16 feet high.

Snow Load

It is not usual to have snow on the ground for four months of the year here, and it is fairly normal to have a good amount of snow where my property is. One year we got five feet of snow in two days. So the snow load requirements are pretty substantial. I see some steel buildings in the area – these are shaped like Quonset huts, or very similar to Quonset huts. I don’t recall ever seeing one collapse. I have seen pole buildings collapse.

Anybody have any view on steel Quonset hut type buildings?


I think if I do a pole building I need to consider perhaps increasing my poles and roof trusses; e.g., maybe poles on six foot centers and roof trusses on two foot centers rather than poles on eight foot centers and roof trusses on four foot centers. I think a roof pitch of 6/12 is required.

Foundation

It looks like a common pole building approach is to place a precast concrete circle at the bottom of a hole at a depth below frost line and set the pole on that. In my area, the hole would be such that the top of the concrete circle would be at a depth of five feet. To help reduce rot and decay, a plastic sleeve can be added to the portion of the post that is in the ground (https://www.postprotector.com)

Another approach would be to set the pole on a concrete pier. One thought that occurs to me is that of using the bigfoot system (https://www.bigfootsystems.com/index.htm) or the sonotube base system (https://www.sonotube.com/sonotubeconcreteforms/tubebase.aspx) coupled with a mounting bracket (https://www.ltcolumns.com/sturdi-wall). This gets the wooden pole out of the ground.

A cross between these two approaches would be to place the precast concrete circle at the bottom of the hole and set a precast concrete column with mounting bracket on the concrete circle (http://www.permacolumneast.com/PermaColumn/models.htm). This approach also gets the wood pole out of the ground.

A regular foundation is an option: reinforced concrete footer at a depth below the frost line and a poured reinforced concrete foundation wall with pole attachment brackets.

If I were to do a steel building, I wonder if I could use the concrete piers and tie-in a 12 inch or 18 inch reinforced concrete perimeter slab.


Framing

For a pole building, I did not assume anything unique apart from: (1) more closely spaced poles and roof trusses, (2) using 4 ply 2x8 poles rather than a 6x6 post or 4 ply 2x6, and (3) 2x6 girts rather than 2x4 girts.

I assume I will have a 14 ft tall by 16 ft wide sliding door at one end (i.e., two pieces of roughly 14 ft tall and 8 ft wide) and a 36 inch wide man door.


I know there is a long way to go, but getting started. As in most things in life, I expect there are trade-offs between cost, durability, and construction efficiency. Viewpoints and prior experience welcome.

Thanks.
 
One thing to think about is the direction of the roofline to doors, if the doors will be on the sides of the building , not inline with the peak, then I would do a decent eve / overhang so snow does not pile up infront of the doors. I have a 24'x36' pole barn and when the snow falls of the roof I cant roll up the doors unitl I clear the snow away.
 
they get small real quick

I have a 40x60 24' tall at the peak, and a1200sqft mezzanine with two 30X16 leantoos, (everything enclosed) wish it was 40x100!!! too much stuff, my wife told me when I designed it to add another 20', alas I did not but should've.. Plan to store all your toys and add 25% min!!. I have 2 cars outside in the ice because I am painting cabinets and needed the space near the wood stove...

I used 20' 6x6 on 8' centers here in NC we only have to design for low snow load and frost line is 12". I put my posts on concrete base then poured 18"x 4' in each hole, 40' free span. Concrete was after i built the pole barn, I did 6" fiber reinforced (8" under the lift area).. but might have been marginally cheaper to stick build on the slab. (I was going to do stone an concrete only where the lift is but wife said NO.... She's a great find!, so hence the slab vs poles argument). Something to price out if you choose to go all concrete. I used Steel trusses 8" centers with a 3/12 pitch, with as much snow as you get you likely need more, I get a foot of snow on the roof, dont be around when it sheds!!!! would probably kill someone! I am waiting for warm weather to install sno guards this spring.

My $0.02 is build it bigger than you need, want, and can imagine, you will run out of space..
 
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Yup. No matter what you plan, it’s not going to be big enough. I went from a one car garage to a 3 car garage (35x25) and I’m out of room, but hey I can work inside now! I still chase my dream for a building like this someday.
I think your planning and forethought is excellent. I do like the idea of an overhang or eve to shield the weather from entrances.
What will you do for overhead doors and will there be any HVAC?
 
My older son want's to build a pole building on his property for all of his vehicles to be garaged. He use to rent one several miles away so, he has some ideas for his building now. Couple of the items he is considering is orientation of the building to prevailing winds, since he does get snow drifts in the winter at his current garage. Another item he want's is doors on the front and rear of the building. This will allow for pull throughs for any trailer for his needs. He is also looking at in ground floor radiant heating along with a natural gas furnace. For his electrical needs outlets will be every 15 to 20 feet apart around the building perimeter with all of them being 20 AMP rated, the actual building will have 200 AMP service.
 
Hello, the overhang idea is a good one. I have a 30x64 and am pretty happy with the size but wish I would have put an overhang on the side with the doors. I would also suggest wide doors, I have two 10x10 doors and should have went 12x12. My building went up last year and will pour the floor this spring. Good luck!
 
X2 on the doors both ends, I have 3 large doors on one end (lift bay (10.5x18), tractor bay (8x10), RV bay (12x14)) and 2 smaller doors on the other end (8x10)to drive in/out.. I went with commercial panel type doors as they were significantly less cost than drum rollup doors and are insulated steel both sides, 120mph rated. Mostly I use them in the Hot Humid dogg days of summer, the breeze blows through and cools it significantly (feels that way anyhow). I also will put heat in the floor next time,, not too bad in NC but a little cold Jan Feb Mar... If I lived any farther north I might would cut some out and add it but def worth considering. Also I put in a 200A sub, but I have it currently breakered off my house at 100A.. no problems so far,.. Local COOP elec charges $50/ mo for a panel regardless if you pull a single watt, so even the linemen said to run it off the house. I may upgrade later.. but works great so far. My next mod may be to put in a bank of batteries and throw some solar panels on the roof :)
 
I built a 50x100 hay barn this summer, I had been looking at the Quonsets hut style as I have an uncle that has one as far use on the Quonset you loose some of the room due to round shape but not much. They aren't hard to put up just take lots of man hours and many batteries for drills and impacts as they have about a million bolts. I looked at wood pole barns but for the same money or a little less I went with a steel building. The manufactures will engineer it for snow and wind loads for your area too. The lumber cost the summer was rising pretty quick in our areas which lead me to go with the steel. Building delivered to me was $27k. It was 50x10x16 with two 14ft openings on each gable end for roll up doors. Cost about another 12k to have it put up. I could have put it up but for the time it took them to do it. I'd say it was money well spent. As others have said build bigger I would have like to went bigger but my location wouldn't allow. I hope to build a shop in the near future, just need to replenish my bank account.
 
Thanks, guys.

First, I hear you all on size and I have no doubt you are correct. On the other hand, money is not infinite and as is so frustratingly true with so much else in life, the final arbiter will be the budget.

I did some research on foundation options, which I'll pass along here in case it is of help to anyone doing a similar analysis. Prices are along good for a day anymore (or at least it seems that way to me), so the real point is the relationship between the various approaches. In what follows, "regular in ground" means the post is set on a concrete circle and the post has the plastic sleeve covering it; "sonotube base" means the poured concrete pier with the large base and a wet-set anchor, and "perma-column base" means the six foot tall concrete perma-column set on a concrete circle; "garage" means a building of 10 feet in side wall height; "pole barn" means a building 16 feet in side wall height. All prices include the appropriate size post and miscellaneous hardware, but of course exclude any labor.

regular in ground garage 6x6: $ 148
regular in ground pole barn 6x6: $ 187
regular in ground pole barn 3ply 2x6: $ 258
regular in ground pole barn 4ply 2x6: $ 342
regular in ground pole barn 4ply 2x8: $ 353

sonotube base garage 6x6: 254
sonotube base pole barn 6x6: 271
sonotube base pole barn 3ply 2x6: 338
sonotube base pole barn 4ply 2x6: 432
sonotube base pole barn 4ply 2x8: 484

perma-column base garage 6x6: $ 307
perma-column base pole barn 6x6: $ 322
perma-column base pole barn 3ply 2x6: $ 384
perma-column base pole barn 4ply 2x6: $ 524
perma-column base pole barn 4ply 2x8: $ 613

I think the sonotube approach will be by far the most labor intensive.
 
I have a 30 x 60 and there is NO WAY you would get all that into it.

I didn't build it, I bought 8 1/2 acres with an older one already there. I wanted to move my woodworking out of our basement and this property is just around the corner. I had wanted to build something here at home (plenty of space) but my wife talks about downsizing sometimes. A separate property 3 miles away is a little inconvenient, but I can keep my shop if we move to a condo in town or something. Also our township officials sometimes seem to function like a homeowners association in a gated community, so getting approval to build a barn would be tough/unlikely.

Door configuration is pretty important. Mine has about a 14 x 10 slider on the end. (offset, half the wall corner to center) and a 7 x 9 on the side. Maybe they thought an L shaped drive-thru would work??? My trucks won't even fit thru that side door. :eek: I keep looking for deal on a wider and taller door to put in there.

My shop is full with on the end with enough windows for decent light. I realized how small it felt when I was about to move my tools in, then decided to move the dividing wall over about 30 inches. (and now occupies probably 12 of the 60') My dust collector and air compressor are on the storage side of the wall.

You will be surprised at how quickly the space can fill. Things never go as tight and neat as on paper. Adequate space to walk between stored items is also very nice. For me, dropped sockets and other round items will ALWAYS roll under the largest and least accessible large objects.

Mine is only 10' high. It's OK, but taller would be nice.
 
How about we go on to the next topic: roofing.

I understand shingle roofing, having worked in shingle roofing in the past and doing my own shingle roofing in the past. I have never worked with metal roofing.

From what I have been able to observe, there are two basic concepts: in one type the fasteners go directly through the steel panel into the roof deck (the head of the fastener has a rubber washer which is intended to seal water out), in the other type fasteners are underneath panels; the panels overlap the fasteners, and the steel panels interlock and snap together.

It seems to me that exposed fastener approach will eventually leak. I can see that the exposed fastener approach would be fine for siding, as the steel panels are vertical, water cannot accumulate. It does not seem ideal for roofing.

Any points of view?

Thanks.
 
I'd normally favor a shingle roof, but with the price of plywood lately, steel across might be better.

For what it's worth, my 20+ year old pole barn had a few small leaks. I hired a local handyman/carpenter to replace them all with larger gauge new screws. (~$500 total) The other option was just painting over with a roof sealant. I was told it can open up other problems.

EDIT: I saw a neighbor was having a pole barn put up and I thought I could ask them a few questions. As I walking over to one of the crew on the ground, I noticed they were overlapping the panels wrong, so I didn't really ask them anything. :eek:
 
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