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Plugges up truck for first time this a.m....and it didn't work...

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I plugged up about 7 am and let her sit until 8:55 when I started it up. Still cold. It only got down to maybe 30, and was about 42 when i cranked it. Does it only work below a certain temperature? Is something wrong with the truck?
 
Should Work!

Mine is on a timer, cuts on at 5:00AM and I usually leave around 7:30. This morning, it was cold and windy, but I didn't have to wait on the "Wait To Start" light to go off.
 
How did you gauge if it worked or not? If the wait to start light went out in less than 5 seconds when you initially turned on the key, it worked. Do not expect the heater to provide hot air from the heater or defrost ducts, you wouldn't want to pay the electricity bill for that kinda heater! :D
 
That should be enough time. Use of the block heater won't make the engine heat up enough that the temp gauge reads warm on start up, but you should notice that the "wait to start light" goes out right away without the delay that you would get if it wasn't plugged in. My truck still takes a couple of minutes of driving before the factory temperature gauge starts to move.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 
Thanks for the replies

That answer's it! I ASSumed the gauge would move up near running temp. I did notice less clatter, so it did work properly. Thanks for the help guys!
 
these guys are right. listen for the gruggle when pluging in, and it takes at least 2 hours for much to take place, 1'000 lbs of steele and 26 qts of radiator liquid, 11 qts of oil, to help keep it cold. dont expect it to happen to quick. just my pennys worth.

marv
 
I added a 150 watt heater blanket to the side of my oil pan. This gets the oil warm and the pressure up much quicker

.

I used a thin coat of red silicone to glue it to the side and also glued a square of 1/2" rigid insulation with shiney reflective side in over the top of the blanket. I used the side of the pan as there was more contact area available.



I tied the plug from the engine heater to the plug of the blanket heater so as to have only one plug to into a cord.



2 hrs. plugged in and the engine is nice and warm even at sub zero temps.
 
hot blanket

jack-- sounds like you have found the way to get warm quick. i would imagine up there, any quick way to get warm would be welcome. when is a good time to travel your direction, fair to good weather, and no mosqeters??? reply my e-mail

marv.
 
For 2 days now my block heater has not worked . i can usually hear it gurgle, now no sound . almost an inch of ice on hood when the block heater usually melts it. I checked extension cord it is fine. Could the plug on the truck be bad. It has sparked a couple times in the past when plugging in. Phoned the dealer they have never had to replace one 95 bucks, checked aftermarket $63 , phoned cummins only $31. (cummins pt#331-3272-c). I'm wondering if there is a way i could test the plug , or should i just cut it off and wire a new plug first. Any input would be appreciated as it hated the cold starts thanxs.
 
Unless you ran your truck way low on coolant (not likely) your heater element is probably ok, cord is the problem. It is very rare for an element to fail. I haven't looked close at the CTD setup but on most block heaters the cord also plugs in on the engine end, check that it's connected and clean. Check for continuity Also check that your extension cord is working properly. It is normal for it to spark when plugging in.
 
Thanxs illflem, i phoned cummins today 5 minutes before they closed and ordered a new one 31 bucks canadian . Parts guy at cummins says cord comes attached on it too. They are sending it purolator hope it get here soon truck is covered in ice, its almost a 911 forum issue
 
If you have an ohm meter check the resistance.



Put a lead on each of the spades on the plug.



If you get an infinite reading your cord is probably bad (could be your heater though).



To check the block heater do the same thing right on the terminals (pull the cord off of it).



If you get a reading (couple hundred ohms) the core is good and the cord is bad.



But if you don't, sorry man, sombody let the smoke out of the heater. (try as you might, it is IMPOSSIBLE to put the smoke back in, I've tryed this with many things!);)
 
Be sure to check that you have not kicked a circuit breaker. I have had cords go bad, plugs short from water and bad cords on freeze plugs. I like redundancy, and an oil pan heater is a good idea. Check all connections and watch for rubs on the cord.
 
I only used my block heater when it was getting down in the low 20's at night. and I use a timer for about 4 hours. They sell a cord that is made for cold weather, its blue and the end lights up when its turned on. The cord does not get stiff when its cold.



Now my VW TDI diesel don't even have a cord to plug it in, never has either diesel failed me even when its 10 below here in PA. I feel the trick is to treat your fuel when its getting real cold. Anytime it is going below 20 at night, I run Howls, PS or this year Amsoil anti gell in the fuel.



Several years ago when the big "fuel price gouge" was going on, they trucked some fuel up from the south that had not been treated. I talked to a couple guys that got burnt (stuck) with the confederete fuel.



But if you want quick heat, get an exhaust brake of one of those heaters that runs on diesel if you live in the real cold areas.



Originally posted by vross

Be sure to check that you have not kicked a circuit breaker. I have had cords go bad, plugs short from water and bad cords on freeze plugs. I like redundancy, and an oil pan heater is a good idea. Check all connections and watch for rubs on the cord.
 
Thanxs for all the input guys. The heater/plug came from cummins yesterday. Finally had a chance to look at it this morning . The fleetguard plug fitted perfect. Plugged her in and she started gurgling right away, yahoo. Found the bad spot on original cord and repaired with heat shrink, now i have a spare lol. I also have a spare heater core , wonder why you just cant buy the plug?
 
",wonder why you just cant buy the plug?" Guess you haven't figured out DC yet. Did you determine what caused the old cord to fail?
 
I meant plug and cord assembly for block heater not just a plug. I cut the plug off old cord and preformed continuity test on plug . Ground and white wire tested fine. The black one was the dud and it is defective inside the sealed plug, go figure!! I tested the leftover cord with core plug end and it tested fine. I attached a heavy duty sealed plug and now have a spare.
 
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