Cab / Body Plugs missing
http://www.rounsevell.com/blowby.pdf
Fumes in cab
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was about to start a thread on this to see if it was still a problem on the new trucks and I guess it is.
Dodge’s had a TSB years ago that states this is a normal condition (which it is) caused by the oil which is emitted by the crankcase breather and sells an odorizer to add to your engine when a oil change is performed that supposedly gives it a nice lemon fragrance. Lovely huh, just what we all need. Wouldn’t it be great if they had one for the fuel too so that would smell like roses or what ever other great fragrance they came up with? How about chocolate? Or maybe beer?
I have a ‘04 with 20,000 miles now and I had fumes when new too. A lot if it is the coating they spray on the engine when new that will burn off in time and some comes from the crankcase breather especially after an oil change. Running synthetic oil (only after toughly broken in) helps tremendously.
The real problem however was accurately diagnosed by Dan Rounsevell in his PDF. I just did the fix on my truck even though odors aren’t a problem anymore because I plan on keeping it a long time like my previous truck and don’t care for engine compartment fumes migrating into the cab if I can help it. Extending breather hoses is more like a band aid approach in my opinion.
The lower holes he identified are the main culprit as they lead straight to the engine compartment and can be plugged with Mopar part number 55276332AA (total of 2 required at about $1. 20 each) as shown in his picture on the passenger side (my truck was missing them on both sides). This part acts as a one way flapper valve and will let tons of water flow out unobstructed but seals if air pressure inside the plenum is lower than outside thus preventing engine air from entering. The one on the passenger side is probably more important than the driver side because the intake for the heater box is on that side but both should be plugged (especially at $1. 20 each). Try shining a small flashlight thru these holes and see where the light leads.
The upper holes should be taped as Dan Rounsevell did. That cavity leads across the top fender edge. When you open your hood you can see holes between the fender bolts that will allow engine compartment air in as well. (I could not find a plug thru Dodge for this hole).
Removing the cowl was a little tricky. It is two pieces and initially I tried to take them out separately from the sides with no luck. Do not try to separate these parts. The way that worked for me was standing on the bumper jockey it around in one piece and bend a little in the center and pull it straight out towards the front of the truck.
P. S. my truck was also missing the body plugs on the inboard side of the doors sills.
My truck also was delivered with the engine and auto trans both overfilled.