I used anti-sieze on my dipstick threads when I put on my covers, also, you do not have to torque it in just snug it up, it will not back itself out.
Thanks WhiteSheep - 'CTD geek' works for me, no truer a spoken word. My neighbor was all about the paint,temp,etc stuff and I told him not to sweat the small stuff because it's actually a small area to be concerned about and that the increased fluid was more significant to the picture. Next thing you know he's off on the tangent that we could do the temp checks, etc so he could prove me wrong. I added a little 'wager' into the mix, fired him up even more to prove his point. So actually, the whole temp thing was an unintended experiment on my part, just a neighbor gone wild.
If you want to really take this paint stuff theory to the max, it IS true that too much paint can cause heat to not dissipate properly over the gradient surface BUT the semiconductor industry found that with heat sinks if they coated part of the surface/interior of the fins and left the ends uncoated, the fin area actually held the cooling air temps from the uncoated ends into the base plate area of the heat sink, without coating the fins the benefits of the heat sink concept was lost or minimal. Same applied to heat sinks used with turbine engines. The turbine engine people are the ones who were behind the development of materials that lead to ceramic coating that we use today. That's why heat sinks work more effectively when partially coated the way the are in most applications. Taking that a step further into the MagHytek covers and their coating design, it may be that besides making these covers pretty with the unpainte fin ends, that technique actually has a purpose/mindset behind it.
CD
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