Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Well, my truck has 113,300 on the clock, and this is my second belt. I caught it before it completely broke, but 1/8 inch was missing on one side. My other belt broke around 55,000, so I would suggest replacing every 50,000 miles unless you want to be stranded somewhere! I still had the receipt from Napa from 2. 5 years ago so they replaced it under their lifetime warranty policy. Good thing, cause a new one is $85 or so!
Remember, the only thing you have to get the belt around, is the 1/4 inch or so gap on the back side of the tensioner pulley. I just pulled some slack in that area, twisted the belt so it would lay flat, and worked the belt through the crack between the tensioner wheel and engine by pushing on the belt and moving the tensioner wheel up/down by using the 1/2 inch drive wrench I had coupled to the tensioner wheel. I started up in the left corner (facing truck), and weaved the belt across the front of the motor from left to right, above the crank pulley, below the fan pulley. Then I draped it over the top right pulley like I had the left side top pulley. Then comes the tensioner pulley, you have to work the belt behind, like I said lay it flat and push is through the gap. Then I used my homemade tool to pry the tension wheel to the 'loose' position, wrapped the belt around the correct pulleys by pulling slack and following the diagram in the repair manual. Once I was certain the belt was proper by double checking, I released the tensioner tool.
I have seen guys have trouble, trying to get the belt around the fan, around the edge of the blades or whatever, you do not have to do that. Look at the diagram.
I carry the diagram in my glovebox cause it is printed nowhere under the hood! Also, from now on I am carrying a cheap spare from Autozone ($30 I think), and my cool tension tool. You can use a 1/2 drive socket handle to pry the tension wheel to the open position, but I decided to make this tool cause it is lightweight, cost $3 for 1/2 inch wobble socket end, and is easier to get into the hole on the front of the wheel cause it's like a slimjim and the wobble end allows it to change angles. Also, if you see the hook on the end, that hook hooks on the sway bar once you get the pulley opened up all the way, so you just hook it on the swaybar, let go, route the belt, and unhook it.
Sorry, the tool is hangin on the weight equipment drying, pic 1 is the entire black length, 2 is the socket end which fits in the tensioner, 3 is the hook end to hold tension wheel open while you route belt.
Remember, the only thing you have to get the belt around, is the 1/4 inch or so gap on the back side of the tensioner pulley. I just pulled some slack in that area, twisted the belt so it would lay flat, and worked the belt through the crack between the tensioner wheel and engine by pushing on the belt and moving the tensioner wheel up/down by using the 1/2 inch drive wrench I had coupled to the tensioner wheel. I started up in the left corner (facing truck), and weaved the belt across the front of the motor from left to right, above the crank pulley, below the fan pulley. Then I draped it over the top right pulley like I had the left side top pulley. Then comes the tensioner pulley, you have to work the belt behind, like I said lay it flat and push is through the gap. Then I used my homemade tool to pry the tension wheel to the 'loose' position, wrapped the belt around the correct pulleys by pulling slack and following the diagram in the repair manual. Once I was certain the belt was proper by double checking, I released the tensioner tool.
I have seen guys have trouble, trying to get the belt around the fan, around the edge of the blades or whatever, you do not have to do that. Look at the diagram.
I carry the diagram in my glovebox cause it is printed nowhere under the hood! Also, from now on I am carrying a cheap spare from Autozone ($30 I think), and my cool tension tool. You can use a 1/2 drive socket handle to pry the tension wheel to the open position, but I decided to make this tool cause it is lightweight, cost $3 for 1/2 inch wobble socket end, and is easier to get into the hole on the front of the wheel cause it's like a slimjim and the wobble end allows it to change angles. Also, if you see the hook on the end, that hook hooks on the sway bar once you get the pulley opened up all the way, so you just hook it on the swaybar, let go, route the belt, and unhook it.
Sorry, the tool is hangin on the weight equipment drying, pic 1 is the entire black length, 2 is the socket end which fits in the tensioner, 3 is the hook end to hold tension wheel open while you route belt.
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