Here I am

Polished my new turbo (Piers HX35/14)

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Cost to convert to p-pump?

EDGE EZ WITH STOCK TC&VB SAFE???

Originally posted by kaptn

Glenn I dont understand the part about starting new transmission threads. Are you trying to trick Steve into polishing his transmission?



No but transmission threads to keep Steve busy deleting post and handing ou strikes..... just trying to keep him busy is all;) :D



Glenn
 
George - WAY expensive and they make no mention at all of using it in high temp applications.



Chipstein, did you use their 1500 degree clear? Because they have different ones. Also, did you heat cure it like they state which is:



VHT Flameproof Coatings will dry in 15 to 30 minutes. Baking ( a Bar-B-Que works great) at 250°F for 30 minutes, then 30 minutes at 400°F, then 30 minutes at 650°F, improves finish and provides a durable surface for solvent resistance. The inherent heat of operation as encountered in exhaust manifolds, boilers, heaters, ovens, etc. may also accomplish curing. Run heat source until hot then cool for 30 minutes, run heat source again until hot and allow to cool for 30 minutes. ALL CURING MUST BE DONE SLOWLY. Until coating is cured finish is not solvent resistant. It is recommended that each individual coat must be cured completely before applying the next layer of coverage.



I'd rather not try the stuff if I'm going to have to end up stripping it off. TIA
 
If I can get my PDR HX40 to look like that, I will spend 30 hours on it!!!

Steve. . Please give me details on what all you did. . I am interested on doing that now!! I like that look!!!



-Chris-
 
I wsh you were closer I could powder coat it for you you might look into eastwood I thank the basic kit is around $100 then you could use it for lots of other stuff
 
Originally posted by Steve St. Laurent

George - WAY expensive and they make no mention at all of using it in high temp applications.



Chipstein, did you use their 1500 degree clear? Because they have different ones. Also, did you heat cure it like they state which is:







I'd rather not try the stuff if I'm going to have to end up stripping it off. TIA

Yeah It was the 1500 clear. However I didn't follow those instruction. At the time my mother wouldn't let me stick a exhaust pipe in the oven. ;) I figured that if I run the engine say at idle or run it 1/4 throttle than it might at least help. Needless to say it didn't. Maybe following the specific instructions would yield better results. Heck, let us know. :D
 
something to think about..

Steve, I wanted to mention two things:



1) By polishing a surface, you SLIGHTLY reduce the amount of surface area available to radiate heat. Probably not enough to have an effect.



2) Por-15 makes a product called POR-20 which is heat resistant and has a brilliant silvery finish. Not necessarily for you, but for the rest of us, it might be an easier option. .



from the POR-15 site:

Capable of withstanding temperatures up to 1400° F, POR-20® is also extremely weather, salt and moisture resistant. Helps prevent peeling. You will be excited by its performance and beauty. We guarantee this to be the most brilliant, uniform heat resistant coating available anywhere.



Can be brushed or sprayed.



APPLICATIONS:

Headers

Exhaust manifolds

Steam lines

Stacks

Boilers
 
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Steve, you don't need 1500 degree F. clear coating for your compressor housing... it does not get anywhere near that hot.



I extensively modified my PDR HX35 compressor housing (removed the lug for the Holset tag, removed all lettering and casting lugs, reprofiled the shape of the housing, blending everything for aesthetic reasons before I even started the sanding/polishing phase of the operation). After completion of my work, I had the compressor housing chrome plated by a custom chrome plating shop. Here, they started out with a nickel plating operation to determine if there were any overlooked flaws by me or their (further) polishing efforts. At a minumum, three copper plating steps were taken to completely "fill in" the pores of the casting. This was followed by a nickel and chrome plating bath. All in all, it turned out very trick, will not tarnish and has not discolored in the least.



You see, I'd checked temps. on the compressor housing on my stock turbo before I decided to have the plating shop go with the copper (which BTW, gives it most of its lustre and depth). However, it also allows for much easier bluing of the chrome at lower temps.



Personally, I've tried a number of different clear coats when I used to polish all the time and haven't found one I liked that would stand the test of time and usage.
 
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Steve, 83 crew cab is on the right track...



a clear powder coat would be the hot ticket! I have seen many parts finished this way at the powder coater I use.



Also, they have transparent colors that really look trick. As an example, Andy Perreault had many of his Cummins chrome pieces finished with a transparent blue powder coat... everyone (especially the judges) love it!
 
Charlan, I used eastwood's ( http://www.eastwoodcompany.com ) greaseless compound (80 grit) to smooth out the majority of the rough casting. I used a dremel tool with wire brushes for the tight stuff (that's what took most of the time). Then used tripoli and white rouge to do the polishing. I did most of the work on my 8" bench grinder with buffing wheels on it.



I guess I'm going to give the 1500 degree VHT a try. I know that I don't need it to take that high of temps but the stock clearcoat yellowed bad because of the heat in the compressor housing. The clear coats that I have on hand are only good to 300 degrees. I guess we'll see how well it works and go from there. I can always strip it and go to a powder coat if I have to.
 
Beautiful Job.

Steve - Looks great. I wouldn't put anything on it. A little Mothers every time you polish the truck should keep it shiny. I'm about to do mine again. Still looks good after almost 2 years. Wish I could say the same about the Jet Hot coating. I'll soon see if Mothers works on that!
 
hey mooorepowercoatings easwood has some they clam will hold up to 1000 degrees no clear have you ever used any thing in that kind of temps just wondering if it anygood thanks George
 
1000f powder

Remember, powder is melted plastic! I have customers that have used it inside ovens that run at a constant 350f to 425f, and they say it is all gone in less than 3 months. That is my experience with it. Also, very few engines, some diesel and ZERO gas burners exhaust will run that cool! By the way, I have seen a good high gloss powder hold up on the compressor housing just fine, but that may have been because the exhaust housing was ceramic coated.
 
polish this

That little old turbo is'nt polishing. Now this is polishing. Hey Steve if you get bored this winter come on over & I'll put you to work polishing.
 
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