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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) poor little hx-35

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Isspro gauge/bulb problems/zero?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Body Parts

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I slid my plate forward this weekend while changing my 3 rear valve covers and have a couple of Q's. Is the little allen head on the boost elbow the way to adjust the wastegate? I can definately go over 40 psi (easily) and I know this is out of the efficiency range of my little HX-35 so I'd like to adjust the gate to open at lower pressure.



Also it's clear to me that I'm hopelessly sliding down (or up) the horsepower hill... My goal is going to be a single charger truck around 450-500HP just for driving (no clutch dumping or sled pulling). If Im nice to it can I make a con ofe or (dare I say it) con O work in this type of app.



Heres what Im thinking



Turbo- HTB2, HX-55, or maybe B1 (TDR classifieds :-laf )

clutch-?? cheap but effective, no overkill please

Injectors- 370's

Detroit locker or posi - one tire frier sucks



will this setup fly??
 
I would say to stay away from the 370's they are not very effecient they tend to dump fuel rather than spray it (personal opinion) i would go with 300's or maybe get in touch with Don M's and get a set of Mach inj.
 
Nick,



That is exactly my goal for my truck as well, super single charger and around 450 HP. :D



I would have to agree with ya on turbo choice and would recommend an SBC clutch of some sort too, as I have heard nothing but good things about them and am awaiting mine tormorrow. :D Oo. Peter @ SBC is very knowledgeable for recommending the proper application.



I definately hear the advise on the 370s as they do just dump fuel in, but for my application, that is what I am looking for. But I would sure go with a set of Don Ms or Mach's if the efficency of the spray pattern gives that much more of a complete, powerful burn.



The Detroit is always a great choice for total positive traciton, but the price is what is holding me back at the moment. I think they are around $700-$800 for the Dana 80 application. :eek:



Joe
 
Forrest Nearing said:
an OFE will hold that, but I would go with an FE



Talk with Peter, unless you will be breaking 450HP and he suggests it I wouldn't go with the FE. I would personally stick with the OFE. I had a 13" FE in my old truck, and it was a little grabby for my taste's, nothing like a TST button clutch I had in it prior but to grabby for me.



The OFE should be fine, as I think Peter under-rates his clutches a little.



For a Turbo, try contacting the gentlemen in my signature. JR may have a good alternative turbo for you to consider. :D
 
I've got the little OFE, and it's holding everthing in my sig, and yes, Peter rates his clutches very conservatively. but I'm ready to grow, and I've grown out of my OFE if I go much furthur. and who doesn't wanna go furthur? :D
 
Nick, one could take that truck of yours with the stock turbo, add a housing, add a water injection setup, 3K's, #10 plate and 370's and make 500 hp... ... I've done it.



You will not beat 370's for the price, no one can do it. EDM's will run you $700 and 1000 depending on what is done to them.



A 13" Con O/FE is a nice clutch too.



Jim
 
See my signature. My last dyno was 480 hp (but it's rumored the correction factor was a little liberal, so maybe it was more like 450). I just used up my Con O at 40K miles (but only the last 10k - 15K miles at the current power) and replaced it with a SB DD.



As Jim said, the 370's are the best bang for the buck even if they aren't the ideal design for these engines.



Go with Peter's recommendations for the clutch. If it doesn't work, he'll stand behind it.



-Jay
 
A buddy of mine has a 97 4X4,Con OFE,PDR HX40,#10 plate,4k GSK,370 injectors and the truck dyno'd 475hp. He uses the truck to pull farm equipment and also as his daily driver.

Something is working!



Rick
 
nick: with my current setup, being slid all the way foward i made a little over 430hp @ the fall brawl this last year! this is with the stock 35. i personally am shooting for 500hp. i figure with a new turbo (got my eyes on that HTT killer b hybrid) and a little bit more fuel i can get 500!
 
nick,

Talk to Josh Peters, he's around 400 hp with a 0# and 370's. He is also the head of the Mn branch of the TDR. or talk to Tim @ tourqe diesel.



The Fat Kid

Andy
 
Wow guys, I appreciate the responses!



I like the idea of keeping the 35 and putting on the 16cm housing and H2O/meth... . it's cheap... and that's a bonus :D



JGHeen, I had no idea the locker was that pricey for the 80, if you find something more reasonable please fill me in. Im not set on rock crawling or anything, just tired of the right rear going up in smoke any time I jump the throttle.



Turbodiezel, Im having trouble bringing up your trucks mods with the link in your sig... maybe you could list the important HP stuff??



Fulmer, I think the 500 HP setup you suggest is the best bang for the buck, non towing setup out there. I assume EGTs get a little rowdy?? not that Im too worried about it, I wont be towing anything remotely heavy.



Nearing, do you mean that you have the 12. 25 inch OFE?



Revised Plan

370's

snow meth stage 2

ofe

16cm housing

some sort of posi



thanks again guys, love the help spending my money Oo.
 
Fulmer, I think the 500 HP setup you suggest is the best bang for the buck, non towing setup out there. I assume EGTs get a little rowdy?? not that Im too worried about it, I wont be towing anything remotely heavy.



It's actually not that bad, around 1500-1550 at the top of 5th, but remember it has a plate that defuels on the top also... ..... without that you can add 150 degrees. You could also go to an 18. 5 or 21 housing and help a tad more.



Jim
 
Nick2 said:
JGHeen, I had no idea the locker was that pricey for the 80, if you find something more reasonable please fill me in. Im not set on rock crawling or anything, just tired of the right rear going up in smoke any time I jump the throttle.

Nick,



Yeah, I was pricing some 4. 10 gears and a Detroit with that set-up and the Detroit alone I believe was just over $700. It's a big mother, as is the Dana 80, so it is gonna cost you some bucks, but it is well worth it IMO, as it is the best positive traction device out there for the rear axles of these trucks. I am actually going to be pricing another one here soon, cuz I have decided to keep my stock 3. 54 gear set in the axle now, I just need to find a good price on the locker for that gear set. I will let you know, just for your reference what price I was given in case your still interested in getting a Detroit.



Joe
 
Forrest Nearing said:
yup, 12. 25 OFE... Peter won't warranty it with my setup, but it's holding... 13" FE is coming soon!

Forrest, why won't Peter warranty the 12. 25" clutch for ya with your set-up?
 
because I'm beyond the parameters of it...



it was in the truck when I bought it, I blew the springs out of that one, and I called him to see what I needed, and he asked me some questions about it, and said, "well, we changed the springs on those because we had some in there that were so stiff that they get brittle and break... " and I didn't really have the money for a 13" upgrade at the time, so he said, "well, do you think you can make another one live?" and I said, "I'm gonna have to"



he asked me for my address and sent me out the revised disk and a new pressure plate for free!



since then, I lost the #6 plate and am now basicly running a #0 plate... fuels MUCH harder MUCH sooner...



when I called to talk with him about a dual disk vs. 13" FE, he was actually pretty SHOCKED that the baby OFE was still alive after 25k miles with this setup...



we think it's still hangin' in because I've got a slow spooling HX40 (no trick mods done to it) and my truck is pretty light compared to a lot of guys out there (single cab, 2wd, etc. )



I can't actually say with 100% certainty that Peter wouldn't warranty it, but I wouldn't have the audacity to accept it if he offered... he was kind enough to warranty the original disk with the updated disk when I was already maybe pushing it, and then I went and threw even more fuel at it...



we are interested to see how the disk looks when it comes out this time.



I think if I still had the stock turbo, this thing would be LONG gone...



my next step is a mild set of twins, so I need something that'll hold a little more torque... I can't swing a dual disk, so I'm going w/ the 13" FE, and if I start to slip it, I'll just tune around it cuz that's all my budget's gonna allow.



Forrest
 
PS, I run empty 99% of the time. I've had a car behind this truck for about 400 miles of the ~25k on the clutch...



so I don't run under continuous high torque situations, but I'm not easy on it either... I'm a hot rodder... I love that push in the lower back... so I wail on it pretty often. I don't abuse it, but I definately use it :-laf :-laf
 
Cool deal. Gotta love that SBC service and warranty! :D



Well, I told Peter what I was planning on with my truck, so that is why he recommended the 13" OFE, so thanks for the heads up on the warrantly voiding info. I'll be sure to keep mine tuned around 450 HP +/- when I get the money to toss in the 370s and the B1.



Man, I am excited for my next bombing as my SBC 13" OFE just arrived, so time to start saving up! Oo. :D
 
you'll be fine w/ the 13"... the actual friction material is stronger than he rates it, that's for sure... but the little 12" disks just don't have the strength in the hub... you could prevent it from happening, but it makes more sense to just go w/ the 13" than to modify all the hubs and have to rebalance them, etc. etc.



Forrest
 
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