OK, Here is my file on the subjext of the slave cylinder on the 2001 DEE. I may be in the same boat soon.
Hope this helps,
Clutch slave cylinder
Simply incredible,I can't believe it!!! I am so happy with the results! You probably saw my recent post about blowing out the clutch slave cylinder. Just so you know,I put a hi-perf clutch (to remain nameless) in my truck that had such a stiff pedal,it took a gorilla leg to operate it(well,pretty close to it). Since it seems very few of these actually break,mine must have been a weak one,then combined with a strong clutch,well you know the rest.
I called up Napa to see if they stock just a replacement slave cylinder. They didn't have one listed for a '00 6spd,so I told him to give me one for a '96-'98 5spd... Napa United P/N 360-051.
With the help of jmbrowning,we took out the original cylinder and compared it to the new one. The Napa cylinder is made my the same company that makes the Dodge one! All the markings are the same,and made in the USA. There is one BIG difference... the NAPA one is about twice the diameter as the original,while keeping the same bolt spacing. The install went easy,but had one small snag for the 6spd. The hole where the hydraulic line fits in needed to be reamed just slightly. I'm sure the 5spds don't need to modify this. Everything bolted up perfectly and bleeding the line was easy.
Now for the big suprise... .
I was shocked to discover that I now have one of the softest clutch pedals I've ever felt! It's softer than a stock ETH pedal. I love it! No more gorilla pedal! Also the clutch engages more toward the floor rather than at the top of pedal travel. Since this cylinder is twice the size,that means there is more volume of fluid to actuate the clutch... meaning less pressure. I didn't know this would happen,but I like how it turned out. Now let's just hope it lasts!
Just a bit of advice for anyone wanting to replace their slave cylinder. Before filling it with fluid,make sure the hydraulic line seats all the way in the slave cylinder. The shoulder of the hydraulic line should be just a little (hair) recessed to the rim of the openeing. This is where I had a problem,but nothing a drill bit or tapered style reaming tool wouldn't easily fix.
-Mike
To bleed it:
Fill the slave cylinder full with the piston expanded all the way out. Attach it to the line,and while holding the slave cylinder verticle (the line will flex enough) pump the piston back and forth so the bubbles float upward. It helps to have another person uptop watching the fluid resivoir for bubbles. Of course once the bubbles stop,you're done
Bob,fill it with the cylinder with the piston axtended all the way out before attatching it to the line. Make sure the hole is hogged out before attatching it though.
With it full,attatch itto the line,then flex the line downward so you can hold the cylinder upright so the bubbles can float up and work the piston in and out and have someone above watching the resivoir for bubbles... keep doing this even after the bubbles are all gone.
That's all you need to do to bleed it,keep working the piston.
RobG,you can't bleed it while its bolted to the trans. Unbolt it so you can work the pistons' full travel.
Rob Hanson,
Well,the diaphram springs on these hi-po clutches are alot higher pressure than the stock. I've been meaning to email Peter at Southbend to see if they have lots of folks complaining how stiff their 425hp clutch pedal is so they can suggest this as a fix. Yes I think you should just add it in when you do your clutch... actually,for anybody who buys this clutch,I recommend doing this mod while the clutch is out (I was going to install one for you anyway Rob).
I'm a little confused. With my cylinder there came instructions that say "do not remove plastic nose strap from the push rod" Ok, I understand that, but from this plastic nose piece there are 2 plastic ties attached to it and they extend to the cylinder housing holding the push rod from going out. Am I to clip these ties before installation, but leave the plastic nose piece on?
Correct,you will need to leave the plastic nose on and clip off the straps. Clip 'em off now that way they won't be in the way while you bleed it.
Don't need to clip strap
I didn't clip the strap on mine. I disconnected the strap then filled the cylinder, then pushed the rod back in, pushing extra brake fluid out to dispel all air. Then I reinserted the straps like it came, connected the line and installed it.
Bob, I would be SURE to keep the cap on the reservoir when disconnecting the line at the slave to prevent all the fluid from gushing out and making the job 3 times harder and 10 times messier. But when Mike did his, his fluid didn't run out, so I don't know why mine did. Just a precaution
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