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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission POR15 arrived

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) new injector questions

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 17x9 Eagles

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:) POR15 arrived today, read the instructions sounds pretty simple. Any trick to this i should know about for those who have used it.

The spot i have is only about inch and half long but im going to have to wait for warmer weather if i read the instructions correctly.

Any Info would be greatly appreciated.

Oh and steve great job on controling the hacking situation, a thumbs up and we all appreciate the help you are giving to a great site on the web...
 
Use just a little bit. That stuff goes a long way. Also use rubber gloves. If it happens to dry on your skin, it will not come off for about 2-3 days. If you do get it on you have some alcohol or starting fluid handy. Make sure you have a very good brush, cheap ones will leave the hairs in the paint and mess up the look. Make sure there are no oils and the surface is a little roughed up. It holds better to a rough sanded surface rather than a polished surface. Have fun
 
I used POR-15 for the frame on my 1952 Dodge pick-up restoration project. This is an excellent product. Like chrleb1 stated where rubber gloves. If you get it on your skin the only way I found to get it off is to let it wear off. Don't ask how I know. The one suggestion that I have is to use the Marine Clean cleaner and Metal Ready prep prior to applying the POR-15. It was amazing how much it took off even after I thought it was cleaned by wiping down with a rag. I also went one step further and applied the top coat that they sell after the recomended two coats of POR-15. I wanted to insure that I would never have any problems with the frame after the project was completed. Not sure what the weather is like in VA but I would wait until the temps are in the upper 50's to 60's before applying. I applied some when it was about 50 and it seemed a lot thicker than it should have been. Also keep it in the refridgerator between coats it keeps longer. Make sure you install plastic wrap between the can and the cover to prevent them from being sealed shut forever.



I have no affiliation with POR-15, just a satisfied customer.
 
Also



It says - "don't shake" - don't - it adds a lot of little bubbles in the paint (opps).



Do the plastic under the lid - I didn't and it was perm. sealed shut. I had to get another can.



I sandblasted the back of some bumpers and painted with the silver por-15. After a few months I had some small pin hole rust areas. The dealer said that after sandblasting it is a good idea to wash with water/soap and a brush to get the fine silica particles out of the pores. Apparantly it can create a small "pock mark" where the paint doesnt cover. But, I've painted sandblasted metal before w/o any problems. I've used it a lot in engine compartments and etc.



I've tried their engine paint but was not happy with it at all. I eventually took that back off and resprayed the engine (what a job!).



Dan
 
1) Use Marine Clean or other professional metal cleaner. If the water beads after using the cleaner wash it again. Prep is everything in painting this stuff on.



2) Make sure the area is 100% dry before applying, including the seams. You can test the seam with a heat gun to see if it's dry. Heat it for a couple of minutes, if it steams or suddenly boils, you know it's not dry yet.



3) I don't think a metal prep is necessary, but if you do use one, you should wash again with a scotch brite pad to remove the fine layer of powder left on the surface by the chemical action of the metal prep.
 
LONG SLEEVE SHIRT and LONG PANTS and LONG rubber gloves..... It takes a week or two to wear off..... I know first hand. . Stuff is tuff as nails. Make sure the day is not too humid as humidty makes it dry too fast. emember it is UV Sensitive so needs to be top coated if the sun can get it.
 
I am getting ready to do a restoration job on my 1972 Chevy Blazer (boos all around:D ) and I think that stuff is just what I am looking for to prevent the rust from coming back after I go to all the trouble of removing it. Where can you find it??
 
Some of the products are not UV sensitive. It is great stuff. Hard even to blast off. My friend did a retoration project and tried to remove it and it was tough. I used gloves but got speckles on my face and had to sand then off. When I got my truck I saw all the unpainted things like the springs and drive shaft so I went to it. Stays on great. Put some vaseline on your face or a mask if you are at risk. It stays flexible too. I just got some auto body filler from them too. It tells you to sand it with in a short time or it gets to hard. The website is http://www.por15.com/Default.asp? I have at least ten different product with a ton of project in mind but no time to do it. I put it on some rust 5-6 years ago on a body with no prep and it still sealed the rust and it's outside all the time in the weather. No oxygen = no rust.
 
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Another piece of advice. Don't paint directly from the container unless you will be using the entire can. They recomend using a smaller container. The directions stated that sweat dripping into the container will ruin the paint. I used a coffee can to work from.



POR-15 can be purchased directly from their website. They also have a catalog so you can order over the phone.
 
WyattEarp,



Where are you using it? I am going to be a volume of a number of there products for a restoration project I am doing on my 1965 land rover and might get some to use on the truck.



I noticed the other day when I had it up on a lift that the bottom end of the doors, particularly up from, are starting to rust. I have a bad feeling it will go bad very quickly has we are in the middle of salt season. I was thinking about preping the spots down to bare metal and putting some POR on them to get through the winter until I can have a full fix performed. Any thoughts? I am pretty ****** that a 2001 that is garage kept and clears somewhat regularly in the winter is having this type of paint issue.



thanks

Ted



Have a pict but can't get anything to upload to readersrigs right now :rolleyes:
 
hey guys, thanks alot for all the info. Im not sure when i will get to this project with all the nasty weather were having here in the mountains, it has been one storm right after another.

Ted don't feel bad mine is a 2000 model and needless to say im not happy about the rust either but whatcha going to do about it, its inevitable. Anyways this will be my first time using the POR15 so im a newbie at it myself, as soon as the weather breaks for good im going to start on it, might just go ahead and do all the seams on all doors, Im getting a yellowish rust color that is showing on the bottom of the passenger side and driver side door, probably from all the wet weather we had last spring and now all this ice and snow.

But living here in the mountains and being on dirt roads and farming i guess i can't complain, but I also knew when i bought the truck that the body would not outlast the engine, reason i bought it :)
 
Ted Constantine

Sorry there Ted just reread your post, on the quad doors at the bottom where the seams fold together right below that rubber peice thats in the bottom of the door i have a sever case of Cancer(RUST:( ) so im going to do the doctoring as soon as i can, don't wont it to eat thru to the outside of the quad door.
 
Wyatt-

I probably don't need to mention this, but be sure to remove your door panels and give the bottom inside of the doors a good coating as this is probably where the rust originated.
 
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