Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Porting/Polishing an exhaust manifold

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) crankcase breather

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pac Brake Problems

Status
Not open for further replies.
Got a new AST 3 piece exhaust manifold to replace my cracked original. Solmodiesel wrote the following "My new manifold is a three piece well made and I ported it and cleaned up the ports on the turbo housing (Matched ports to the gasket with a dremel tool) and my egt's went down while towing almost 200 degrees and it spools super quick now. " Could I get some explanation and instructions on how/why this is done.

Thanks

Mike
 
Any engine,gas or diesel is just an air pump. More air in and out with the correct amount of fuel will make more power. It is easy to get more fuel in our Cummins but the air portion of the equation cost more and will take more labor. The porting will add flow. The trick is to not allow the exaust to cool or slow down before it reaches the turbo to get the best possible spool up.
 
I wouldn't expect a 200* drop... I also wouldn't waste time porting cast iron with a dremel.



I've never noticed an EGT drop going to a 3pc from a stocker, and yes, the manifold and turbine housing on my truck are ported because I can't leave well enough alone.
 
MullinsM, You can use the gaskets to scribe lined onto the part & then open the holes to match the scribing. This is done at each cylinder port & at the two ports to the turbine housing. The turbine housing is then matched to the manifold. A Dremel is small for the job but will work. I have some photos of mine somewhere on my computer. Send me a PM with your e-mail & I'll dig them out & send them.
 
A good high speed die grinder and some carbide cutters will cut the time spent way down. I would not recommend anyone with out porting experience to start that way. Use less agressive tools till you get the hang of it.



All the little things add up to a nice pkg. My trucks generally run cooler than most at the same power levels.



Bob
 
MullinsM, You can use the gaskets to scribe lined onto the part & then open the holes to match the scribing. This is done at each cylinder port & at the two ports to the turbine housing. The turbine housing is then matched to the manifold. A Dremel is small for the job but will work. I have some photos of mine somewhere on my computer. Send me a PM with your e-mail & I'll dig them out & send them.



I'm assuming you pinned the turbine housing and the manifold so as to perfectly align the two upon assembly? because the turbo mounting studs are a good deal smaller OD than the ID of the holes on the turbo flange. if you allow gravity to "align" your turbo to the manifold, you have just put a big ol' lip in the exhaust path.



always better to port inlets larger than outlets to prevent this misalignment unless you have everything pinned
 
I'm assuming you pinned the turbine housing and the manifold so as to perfectly align the two upon assembly? because the turbo mounting studs are a good deal smaller OD than the ID of the holes on the turbo flange. if you allow gravity to "align" your turbo to the manifold, you have just put a big ol' lip in the exhaust path.



always better to port inlets larger than outlets to prevent this misalignment unless you have everything pinned



With bolts in place I didn't have much if any slop in the fit, but you are right that inlets should be slightly larger than outlets. One can use a ported turbine housing on an unported manifold but not the other way around.
 
Dear MullinsM- My manifold I ported with a dremel tool - had a free day waiting for parts - and I used the exhaust gasket as a template. Align the gasket on the head first on each port to see where in the port "window" the head port is focused. Then take same gasket align on exhaust manifold and use a black or any dark color permanent marker and color the window on the manifold completely on the surface. Focus on removing burrs and smoothing turns or radiuses as the ehaust goes through the manifold. Remember that your engine is just an air pump (we can always dump more fuel it is the air that is hard to get!) and think a bigger pipe flows more air. Anyway, on the entrance port to the exhaust manifold leave very little of the colored window you made unground smoothing and tapering as far in as you can get to. On the outside ports (big radius) focus on the outside of the radius and on the inside or straighter ports focus on the window opening size all around. While there you can polish it up with emory cloth on tapered wood or use you fingers, I used gloves, and you can really feel if you smoothed the flow up. There is a lot of bumps and extra casting there so you can remove a lot of metal. Just don't go too thin - I always felt with my fingers how thick the manifold runners were before deciding how much to take off, of course still thinking of smoothing radii. Then you can do the turbo side and the turbo marking and using the gasket again. Leave a pencil tip thin line on the manifold turbo port all the way around so it is slightly smaller than the newly ported turbo port. Good luck. My history is that I have always been into racing autos and more recently motocross bikes for my son and I built all the racing engines including the porting (science unto itself!) and port timing. Back to diesels, my exhaust temp went down almost 200 degrees due to new exhaust, intake, and the lack of leaking exhaust manifold. The porting helped some, mostly mental, but after building professional race engines I can't leave well enough alone. Coating for thermal barriers would definetely help too. Ceramic coating would keep heat where you want it - producing power! In the manifold not heating up your engine bay. Last thing, in science, in order to prove a theory, you must have a large enough statistical group to test that no matter how many times you test the theory you get the same results. Apply that to everything you hear and you can determine whether it is right or not. We are all here to help each other and I learn stuff everyday. Good luck and write me anytime.
 
Dear MullinsM - My wife just snooped on what I said and she said on the 1/4" carbide bits for the major metal removal we used my cordless drill and then for the fine-tuning we used the dremel tool to polish and shape and smooth. Of course I forgot to mention she helped me with it also - enjoyed it too - and she wants credit. LOL. Anyway it is not rocket science and you can do almost as good of a job (I estimate 90%) as someone who has a flow bench and years of experience. All at a big dollar savings. I did not ever take my head off (Of course later!) and then I will massage the ports on it especially the valve bowls, the whole time smoothing radii and polishing. Someone who is into heads up class racing might benefit from a professional port job but us regular (by the way I'm an engineer) joes can do a good enough job for bracket racing or towing or playing on weekends. Thanks for letting me ramble. Good luck!
 
I have done some experimenting myself. I ported a non-egr ex manifold to put on an egr engine. The same time I turned the fuel up considerably. The egt's were the same before and after porting while towing... ... ... . the change was an extra 150lbft of torque. A worth while gain in the real world



Bob
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top