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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Possible "53" Patch???

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I may have stumbled onto something that could be used to repair the cracked 53 blocks. A company, InduMar, markets a pipe repair system named "Stop It. " What makes me think it may be the answer to the crack repair is this system's use of a resin impregnated "knitted" fiberglass placed over the crack, followed by an epoxy-type top coat. They claim it can even repair pipes under water! It is claimed to work on copper, aluminum, galvanized, stainless, black iron as well as most plastics. Their web site has pages of testimonials from people who have used it to repair leaks in everything from chemical plants to underground cast iron water lines.



I e-mailed them concerning the Cummins problem and asked if our application would be a good candidate for their product. Their web site is: www.stopit.com if anyone wants to check it out. I'll post their reply.



By the way, I don't have any connection to this company... but I do have a 53 block!!!



Ed
 
I have heard of cracks being drilled and tapped, and then a special type of plug is threaded into the block.



The Matco guy had a 53 block in his tool truck, which cracked, and that is how his got fixed. He comes around next Monday, I will try and get the name of the company that did it for him.
 
With the incredible epoxies and assorted industrial glues that are out there today I'd be suprised if there wasn't something that would do the job. My brother and I have been using a product made by Hilti to, without a better term, glue 3/4 inch allthread into holes drilled in concrete. It's pumped in by a special caulk gun. In 1 hour you can crank a nut on against a 2 1/2 inch OG type washer with a 3/4 inch drive rachet with enough pressure to crush the wood underneath! Seems there should be something that would stick to cast iron and contain about 20 psi! Greg
 
I just saw that product (I think) last week at a trade plumbing trade show. You use a blue light to cure it? Only possible problem that I was told about was it is only for a temporary repair. They said the less the pressure on it the longer it should be good for.

Larry
 
Epoxies

Over the past 20 years I have used epoxies (Marinetex, JB Weld, Hysol and others) numerous times in very demanding applications and found with proper preparation the patches to be durable and effective.

I currently work for a large power company and we use a "five minute steel epoxy" for patching active oil leaks. The pressure is around 10 psi. The process is to grind the leak area, just let it leak as you grind to white metal. wash it with some solvent (acetone, ect. ) then mix very small portion of epoxy, sized like a 1/4" ball. Press into leak and apply pressure greater than the fluid pressure inside the case. You have to hold it until epoxy sets. Your thumb will get really tired! Wait another 10 minutes then grind and repeat the process again. avoid removing all of the patch. if the leak is still active do the 1/4" trick again. After you kill the leak mix a larger quantiy and overlay the patch, grind and repeat. You should have a patch that is about 1 inch on either side of the leak, feathered from nothing to total thickness of 3/8". This process will take the better part of an afternoon, but so far 9 out of 10 patches have held for at least two years. Cheaper than replacing the block.

Rich
 
patch is just a patch

These patches work great in some apps. but the 53 blocks are actually flexing because of the thinner walls. I had a cracked 53 and tried numerous different methods and all worked fine if I used it as a car. The first time I hooked a trailer up, the crack surfaced again. My 53 is gone now, so I wish you all GOOD LUCK :-laf
 
SRakers said:
These patches work great in some apps. but the 53 blocks are actually flexing because of the thinner walls. I had a cracked 53 and tried numerous different methods and all worked fine if I used it as a car. The first time I hooked a trailer up, the crack surfaced again. My 53 is gone now, so I wish you all GOOD LUCK :-laf



I am with SRakers on this one. The JB weld did not last 2 weeks when I used it although I knew going in it was a temporary fix. The main reason for a new block was pulling the 5th wheel and I sure did not want that leak surfacing again. The 53 is a casting flaw and numerous fixes are being tried maybe they will work maybe not. I did not want to be at the mercy of a shop 1000 miles from home. Although now I have heard of a 55 crack surfacing :--)

If this is true I may start feeling uneasy with the 56 in the truck now.



Dave
 
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