Possible new fifth-wheel forcing look at new truck...

[CHinton]

I love my current truck and not too excited about trading but my wife and I both have decided we like the model 314 from Alfa Leisure. This unit weighs in at 16,280 loaded up and with the king-pin set 8. 5" behind the nose (and that's with the extended pin!). The king-pin location means I've got to have a 8' bed. Pullrite says they're slider won't make it work in the short-bead.



As far as I can tell my options are as follows:



QC 2WD ST SRW 5. 9L w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,200

QC 2WD ST SRW 5. 9L w/ 48RE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,300

QC 2WD ST SRW 6. 7 w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,100

QC 2WD ST SRW 6. 7 w/ 68RFE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,200



QC 2WD SLT SRW 5. 9L w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,150

QC 2WD SLT SRW 5. 9L w/ 48RE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,250

QC 2WD SLT SRW 6. 7 w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,050

QC 2WD SLT SRW 6. 7 w/ 68RFE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,150



RC 2WD ST DRW 5. 9L w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,150

RC 2WD ST DRW 5. 9L w/ 48RE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,200

RC 2WD ST DRW 6. 7 w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,000

RC 2WD ST DRW 6. 7 w/ 68RFE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,100



RC 2WD SLT DRW 5. 9L w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,100

RC 2WD SLT DRW 5. 9L w/ 48RE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,200

RC 2WD SLT DRW 6. 7 w/ G56 3. 73 Max Trailer: 16,000

RC 2WD SLT DRW 6. 7 w/ 68RFE 4. 10 Max Trailer: 16,100



There's actually more options for me than I first thought when I started this post. I'm not considering the Laramie trim package. These all feel to be 'close enough' on capacities to me.



I've not towed anything this big before, should I value the DRW over the QC? The 6. 7 turbo/exhaust brake is very interesting but also complex, will it be as stable as an add-on ebrake on the 5. 9? I swore I'd not have another dodge auto after the one on my old 2000, is the 68RFE solid? So many questions!



Any recommendations? ( I don't think we want to wait for the 4500/5500 to be available)



Thanks

Chad

 

[Okie-Go]

I have an 06qc drw and a jake brake. I would not be afraid to pull a trailer like you are describing.

Of course it also sounds like a good excuse to get one of the Small freightliner's also. FL 70

 

[AKaiser]

Caveat to everything I say: This is mostly just regurgitation of what I've read on here, and other places. , a consensus, if you will. I keep my ear to the rail on these trucks.



QC v. DRW: Well, I guess it depends on your wants/needs. Do you need the extra cab space? If you don't, I'd go with the DRW for stability, unless you just don't want the DRW width to be an issue for non-towing uses. I assume you're going to be doing some traveling on the interstates. If you head thru the open plains, your'e going to appreciate having the stability of the DRW in the high winds. As far as the 48RE goes, everyone says it's pretty strong, a much better unit than the 47RE it replaced, and the 68RFE should be stronger yet. Most of the transmission failures are on modified trucks, from what everyone says. The G56 is a stout transmission, and it's a user friendly unit.

 

[LEPage]

I don't know why you think you need a new truck...

 

[BBeck]

I don't know why you think you need a new truck...

I believe he has a shortbed truck (referring to his last sentence) and the PullRite slider won't work with this trailer. Any other options to consider first for a shortbed slider before going to a new one truck?

 

[SSage]

If your going to a new truck, take a look at a used FL70.



I pull two really heavy 5th wheels with one ton duallys. A 39' Cedar Creek Day Dreamer is quiet a load for a 2003 3500 DRW Dodge at 13,800 empty. Loaded up, its a hand full if your not on flat land. Its ok with the Edge Attitude but, the truck is really working hard all the time while pulling.



The other trailer I tow is a 43' Toy Hauler that weighs over 17K, about 14,880empty with propane and water. That trailer has me looking for a MD truck. I can tow it with the dually but, the engine runs around 20 psi and 1100 degrees on mild hills and flat land. I can maintain good speed with the Day Dreamer but, the larger Toy Hauler is pushing it. My 95 dually is used to tow the monster and it sounds mean with the straight pipe at 32 psi. :-laf



If your really over 16K and you want to tow in comfort, look at trucks rated for the weight. Take your actual truck weight with passengers and junk, subtract that from your GVWR and get your real towing capacity. I tow very heavy loads pulling tractors and farm stuff at 45 mph. On the highway its a bit different pulling 17K over the Rockys.



A 17K trailer will push you down the hills very well, an exhaust brake is a very good idea.

 

[CHinton]

I've modeled the operation of the pullrite hitches and they don't move back fast enough to give clearance during turns. It looks like the cab will be hit at about a 50degree angle with the 18k slider and 60degrees for the 24k slider. I don't like the look of that airborne sidewinder thing. Seems like permanently moving the pivot point back is defeating the purpose of having a fifth wheel for non-sway anyway.

Looking at the preliminary bodybuilders manual at http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2007/docs/dm/dmmlup.pdf both the 4500 and 5500 will use the same 6. 7L engine and Asin transmission with the chassis giving greater weight capabilities.

I'd like to stay with the 3500 model as this is also my daily driver and it would seem to be a bit overkill to pull into the office in a FL70 I'm currently leaning to if at possible, choose a different fifth-wheel failing that a 3500 drw with the new powertrain. The dog just won't be in the back seat.

 

[SSage]

In the past I always thought a 3500 would be good enough pulling 17K. It will do it. But, I find myself wanting to pull faster with less stress. I've had the chance to drive a F-750 with an ISB and a spicer 6 speed. The lack of bucking and getting pushed around was refreshing. I've researched going to a new 4500 Dodge or Chevy and the F-450 route too. After looking at the MD trucks and the prices it doesn't make sense to stay with a pick up. The FL50 and up turns tight and is no longer than a crew cab long bed. I actually could put a FL truck in the average parking space. The down side is it will be slower when running solo, it will use a bit more fuel too.



I spend most of my time living in my RV and I don't want to go smaller. I love my 43' toy hauler. My next one will be bigger no doubt. I love the space of my current KZ 41kg, I just wish the garage was 14'.



If you must stay with a pick up, size the trailer for it. As a rule of thumb I take the trailer's dry weight and add 2,000 pounds to it. Keep in mind, factory weights on most RVs are way low. The pin weights are a joke, my 40' trailers have all had pin weights in the 5,000 pound range. I think my TH was listed for 3280 at the pin... . Its not even close to that with empty tanks. I don't think KZ factored in my batteries or the generator thats up front which they installed at the factory where they put that weight sticker on.



Think dually for a heavy trailer. A SRW truck with say 4K on the bed with another 12K behind that will push your rear end around a bit more than most will tell you.



I'm pulling a touch over 16K with an 03 3500 DRW 4x4 QC, it handles it. The engine works very hard and the rear springs do very well. Air bags are needed to get a level ride. I highly recommend an air ride hitch of some sort. We have the air bagged king pin on the Day Dreamer, it rides much smoother than the GN set up on the TH. The bucking is much better and the trailer rides so much smoother. Suff stays put much better in the trailer. If ever go to a MD truck I'll stick the King Pin on my custom orderd Leland framed trailer and hook it to an air ride hitch on the truck since they can me mounted below the hauler's deck. Ordering my toy hauler with both GN and 5th wheel hitches has been very nice option. I can pull it with just about any farm truck or work truck around regardless if it has a GN ball or a 5th wheel hitch. Oo.