Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Possible Project Truck... Have ??????

[Wingate]

I have the opportunity to purchase a 1994 3500 single cab 2wd DRW flatbed for $850. 00. The 5 sp. trans. is out of it due to 5th gear failure. The engine has approx. 450,000 miles and still runs, slobbers a little and uses about 2-3 qts. of oil between changes.

Anyway, I've seen the truck from a distance, but haven't went and looked up close... .

Is the 94 block one of the blocks that was prone to cracking down the right side?,. What kind of hp is reasonable on a single turbo (not limited to a stock turbo) and on diesel fuel only?. .

My idea is to rebuild the engine and trans. from the ground up and just see how big of a number I can get out if it.

 

[Jim McCarty]

The infamous "53" block was found in the early 24 valve motors (iirc). 500+hp is a very realistic number. If you've got a trust fund available you could go higher. As far as getting your money back when you sell it, you might do better in the stock market. Good luck.

 

[HCannon]

If you going to fix to sell it would hard to do. If you fix to drive, the trans and motor stand to go past the milages that it has on it now. The big problem is every thing else has the same milage on it and it can get to costing a bunch. Another good luck to you.

 

[Wingate]

oops... . I was referring to big numbers on a dyno, not looking to resell. I have just about finished all my home projects and like to have something to tinker with on the weekends. Thought I might buy the truck, repair the transmission, zero hour the engine and throw everything I can think of at it, and just see what kinda # I could get out of on the dyno. The reason I want to stay on diesel only, is that I'm hoping that I can find a good combination that will lay down a decent # and do double duty as a good pulling rig when the need arises. I have had to pull WAY more than my 3/4 ton is rated for once or twice... . I REALLY hated doing that to my brand new truck. Granted, I didn't pull it but about 10 miles, but the rear suspension just didn't want it, and I didn't feel comfortable doing it.

I have access to an engine dyno, and there is a chassis dyno in the next town...

 

[Extreme1]

For towing I'd make sure this still has the overload springs on it. I'd also look at twins, a big single can make big HP but will get you into towing EGT trouble.



After spending a lot of time and $$ myself (and going through multiple iterations of fuel and air parts), pick the number you want and build to it from the start. It's cheaper and faster to do it that way.

 

[Wingate]

Extreme, What injectors/pump are you running?. . I keep hearing about marine injectors and different pump combinations. . As for the turbo, I had wondered about EGT's with a big single, glad to hear that it might be an issue. The twins sound like the way to go.

 

[Extreme1]

I recommend calling the reputable vendors (PDR, BD, etc. ) and discuss options, steps and cost. What you are towing, where and how often you will pull it will be the limiting factors on how much hp you can get. Heavy loads, high altitude and big hills will be limiting factors.



My first set up was: 215 Injectors, 160 HP pump with 181 Delivery Valves, PDR 3K RPM Kit, TST #5 Kit. Dynoed at 275 HP & 650 ft-lbs torque at the rear wheels (Before the delivery valves and RPM kit) and got 17 miles per gallon through the stock exhaust.



The next set up: Bosch shop rebuilt and tuned 180 pump (I should really sell that thing someday), 370 injectors, 181 DV's, 3K GSK, port matched ATS manifold, PDR HX-40 w/14cm wastegated turbine housing, 24 valve intercooler, Banks exhaust, BHAF: 345 hp (Mustang Dyno @ K&S Fuel Injection)



I am currently (when the truck was in 1 piece) running a PDR tuned 215 hp pump with a 3k RPM kit (I'd go 4k RPM for your manual trans) & 370 injectors (there are a few 370's, you need the right ones) plus all the other stuff in the last set-up. This should (according to Mark and Piers) put out around 425hp.



The only thing I'd change on the set up I have (if I didn't have twins, a bigger intercooler and a twin ram laying around) would be a set of better injectors. That change would get me more mpg and a few more hp.

 

[Wingate]

Thanks for all the info EXTREME1 ... Sounds like you've already went thru every possible combination that I had thought of, and some that I hadn't. .

You think the bottom end of the 5. 9 is capable of staying together at 4,000 RPM?... Interesting... I knew I was going to have to get after the high idle screw some, but I never would have thrown it away and spun the crank to 4K...

I put my bid in on the truck this weekend... should find out soon if its going to be my yard ornament!!. .

 

[Extreme1]

The 4k will let you rev past 3k which the hand grinders like. My automatic never spins past 2,700 because it shifts there and I haven't had the opportunity to find out what it would top out at.



If I keep it in a lower gear, it will rev to about 3,250-3,300 before the govorner kicks in.



There is a bad harmonic around 4,100 that the pullers rev through. Last I heard, those folks are spinning up to 5k.



Have fun!

 

[RHestand]

I saw a picture of a very broken Cummuins con. rod, from a Schneid sled puller engine.

The caption said "Cummins don't like to rev past 7000 RPM. "

Joking or not???

 

[Extreme1]

I wouldn't be surprised if it was true. Those guys are one of the tuners that are pushing the envelope and it's early in the season.



Engines and other parts are being "tested" by a few shops. I got to see a Duramax spread its bottom end all over the track at IRP a couple years ago. I wish I had video of that one, you wouldn't believe the parts scatter.