Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Possible reasons truck won't start?

[mdivincentis]

This is a post I put in Truck 911 last nignt, an thought I may get a little more exposure here... .

I had my turbo explode on me the other nite...



I was doing a burnout (stupid!) and at about 3500 RPM, 10 sec into the burnout, ~30 psi, the turbo let go. POP, then a LOUD bark, then it just died . I didn't try to start it again.



I pulled off the old turbo tonight, put on the new one, cleaned everything out real good, and tried to start 'er. Nothing. Nothing at all. It sounds strange when I crank it, like the starter is working real hard or it is cranking real fast .



I checked the obvious, and tried again. Still nothing.



Any ideas?

Could my timing have slipped bad right then?



Truck Bio: 98, 2500, 5spd, 12v, 370's, HX35/40 (before & after), 0 plate, 4000 GSK w/ valvesprings, PDR cam installed a week earlier.

I have bled the inj. lines, etc to make sure I am getting fuel. Any other ideas?





Thank You!



Matt

 

[SEmerson]

I would check to see if the valves move. Maybe you broke the cam.

 

[JGK]

Did the dead turbo have all it's parts still intact on the compressor side? Turbo parts have been found in the cylinders after exploding. You don't want to be cranking it with parts in there.



Check that the valves are moving, like SEmerson said. May want to check that by barring the engine over by hand rather than using the starter. That way you can feel for problems. If that's OK, check that fuel is pumping by cracking some injector lines and watching for fuel weepage when you try to start it. If not, you may have done something to the pump, too, but not likely.



In any case, sounds scary!



-Jay

 

[mdivincentis]

I did watch valvetrain, everything seems to be working fine there (I just took off the valve covers and watched while motor was cranked).



JGK- the compressor side is what came apart. I cleaned everything except the engine (cylinders) well before I tried to start it. I did bleed inj. lines too, still nothing...





Thanks,

Matt

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I don't like how you commented about how it sounds funny when you crank it over post-explosion... That's not good.



Bad timing (retarded) will usually make it crank easier... advanced timing will make it crank really hard. When they slip... most of the time it ends up being retarded...



Check the timing... it's worth a shot.



Matt

 

[SEmerson]

i Still think it is probly a valve train problem. If you have fuel and compresion it should run. You could spray a little either in it to see it it has compresion. Even it your pump in not working and you timing slipped it would start. But just use very little.

 

[Dieseldemon]

The large pieces of the intake wheel will be in the intake side of the intercooler if the timing went retarded bad you wont have much compression and it will spin easy My bet would be timing slipped

 

[SRadke]

Be careful with ether and the grid heaters



-Scott

 

[mdivincentis]

I did try ether last night too (unhooked the grid heaters). Not a sound out of 'er. Does that eliminate timing? I guess I need to check.



Thanks a ton guys!!!!!

Matt

 

[SEmerson]

Injection pump timing is not the problem then. You have a valve timeing problem. or you have bad compretion from ring damage in all cylinders. That I find unlikly. even if it had 3 dead jugs it would still run a little on ether.

 

[mdivincentis]

SEmerson-

You vote for valve timing. How can that happen?

One more thing-FYI-it looks like it's cranking at about 200 rpm with good batteries.



Thanks again!

Matt

 

[SEmerson]

My thought is parts went in and smashed valves braking something. . There is very little room in there for pieces. Even with no turbo it would run. so there is some other problem. With ether it would also run without any fuel or injector timing. So it must have bad compression due to ring, valve, cylender damage. My first thought was a broken cam from bindup but if the valve train still moves that is unlikely. But damage there is still possible. I hope I am all wrong here but I don't see any other options. Can you do a compression test?

 

[mdivincentis]

I don't have a compression tester for diesels (yet). I hope I do not need it.



Matt

 

[TSterken]

Roll your engine over to tdc #1 and push in the timming pin (under your inj. pump) Then on the pump there is a timming pin for the pump. she if your pump shaft has soon inside your gear.



Check the head "intake" for any parts of the turbo. After that try starting the engine with the intake hose off the intake manifold. Just to make sure your getting air. Let me know.

 

[SEmerson]

Roll your engine over to tdc #1 and push in the timming pin (under your inj. pump) Then on the pump there is a timming pin for the pump. she if your pump shaft has soon inside your gear. QUOTE]



Pins will only line up if it at stock timing.

 

[mdivincentis]

Well, I just timed it, it was at 4 mm of lift , I bumped it to 18*

Did not make a difference at all. Still sounds the same when I crank, etc...



Matt

 

[JGK]

After I posted about the valve train not working (broken cam) I got to thinking that if that were the case, you'd likely come up against a valve in at least one of the cylinders (one of them would likely be pushed in). So, since that isn't happening, either they'er broken (and would be making a hell of a noise) or they are fine.



I just happen to have a compression gauge and an adapter that fits the 12 valve injector hole. Bought it a few years ago when I thought I had a bad cylinder. A member in Utah I'd never met sent me one he had out of the kindness of his heart. Unfortunately, he didn't have the right adapter. If you'll pay shipping both ways, I'll send/lend it to you to check your motor out. All I ask is you return it in as good a shape as I send it. However I wouldn't get it out until Monday, of course. I can send it any way you wish (over night, 2 day express, etc. ).



Consider it a "pay-it-forward" to pass on the good will of the guy in Utah.



Let me know.



-Jay

 

[MLee]

When drawsen blow his turbo last year at DAY ON THE EDGE, his acted the same way. when he tore in to his, he had parts of the turbo holding valves open and gouges on top of the pistons. He now has one sweet engine, total rebuild with twins. go to view readers rigs, he has pictures there.

Hope you fair out better.

Marv.

 

[BPonci]

Set the valves and see if you have a valve with excessive clearance. Also check the exhaust and intake (plenum off) to see if it pushes air at you during the cranking cycle. If so you have a dead hole or multiple. How did you install the cam gear? It is possible that valve timing is the culpret. I see you just timed it. Were the valves on #1 on valve overlap when you pushed the timing pin in? That will tell you that at least the cam gear to camshaft is ok for the front hole. Check all others in the overhead procedure. That should tell you if your valve timing is ok. Good luck and keep us updated... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Brad

 

[JAmos]

I replied earlier to the 911 post, but have some more thoughts. Not for sure on this but is it possible that something happened to an injector or the pump to cause a massive amount of fuel to flood a cylinder? If the engine doesnt spin over as fast as usual, cranking it could be doing more damage, especially if there are pieces or excess fuel in the cylinders. Also could a bearing have siezed, causing the engine to grind to a halt and crank slow? Kinda guessing here since I cant see or hear it. Still think I would take out the injectors and either relieve a hydro lock situation or see or hear pieces inside the cylinders. Send more details about how exactly everything happened and maybe we can help you pinpoint the problem. Jordan