Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Possibly Returning

[R.Brooks]

Here we go again! I am a former Dodge/CTD owner, and may be returning to this side of the fence again soon. Have been mia for about 7 months. If I return, it will be with a 12V Ext cab, AT, 4x4. Not sure wether it will be 2500 or 3500 yet. Probably be 95-98. Todays questions: Basicly I need a refresher course. What is the recommended order of upgrades. Obviously the gauges come first, and that does not even need to be discussed. Exhaust, who's is the best bargain? Not lowest price, but best bargain. Air Filter, BHAF or something else? TST power plate, or some other brand? Injector's and turbo: What needs to be modified, what doesn't? Who's is the king of Torque convertor's at this time? Any particular years or issues to watch for? The truck will be used almost exclusively to haul a 10 - 14k lb trailer, so making the most usable HP is key. Any and all advice is appreciated!!



Thanks!

 

[Ben Rumson]

You're likely to get a different answer from each member.



I did mine all at once - transmission included.



Slybones was a great help to me with the same questions your asking. Alot depends on how much you have to spend on upgrades.



Step 1. Advance your timming to 15. 5 or 16 deg. and get a 3k gov spring kit.



Step 2. Gauges and torque plate.



Not enough?



Step 3. Injectors, delivery valves, and 4" exhaust ( I got all three at the same time through Chris T. at Autowurks Diesel for a good price). I also got my AFE Mega Cannon air filter at this point.



Still not enough?



Step 4. Upgraded aftermarket transmisison - unless you get a standard - in which case you can kick your sorry butt off this post... just kidding. Upgraded clutch if you have a standard.



Still not enough?



Step 5. Upgraded turbo, ported heads and exhaust manifold.



You'll hear a different opinion from as many readers as read this.



Personally, I think the timming and 3k gov gov spring kit are first and foremost. All other enhancements come after these.

 

[bighammer]

You don't make step 4 on a stock clutch



Edit for manual trans guys:



Step 2. 5 Call Peter @South Bend Clutch and order a new clutch (filling him in on all the next steps so this step is not repeated too soon )

 

[R.Brooks]

So far so good! I had forgotten about the timing! Step 4: LOL! I am an auto fan, too lazy to push in the clutch! If I wanted a clutch, I'd buy a big rig. So for my purposes, sounds like through step 4 is the answer. Approximate cost to do it right? And what brands/vendors are recommended?



Thanks!

RB

 

[Ben Rumson]

Originally posted by RBrooks

Approximate cost to do it right? And what brands/vendors are recommended? RB

You'll get some dirt clod fights asking this.



I LOVE my DTT transmission. Others love their ATS trannys. Other love brand xxx, and so on.



I would strongly recommend that you give Bill K. a call at DTT on his toll-free number and pick his brain as to the pros and cons of transmission configurations. His number is 1-866-504-4002.



Cost depends on what you get inside - TC, stators, cryo'd shafts, valve bodies, etc.



Have fun! It's your money!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[fest3er]

Originally posted by Ben Rumson
You'll get some dirt clod fights asking this. ... Cost depends on what you get inside - TC, stators, cryo'd shafts, valve bodies, etc. ...

Dirt? More like globs of the stuff one might find in a pasture, or a hog barn.

A question just occurred to me. If one is simply towing (and driving reasonably sanely), why would he need cryo-d parts? I'll grant that the demands drag racing and sled pulling put on a transmission can require cryo'd parts, but ordinary towing and driving? What am I missing?

(And Ben, I'm not implying that you (or anyone else) implied or stated outright that cryo'd parts are needed. )

Fest3er

 

[Deezul1]

Most important of all is to get a 96 to 98 12 valve as they have the highest HP pump. The difference in an auto equiped truck and a 5speed is 35 HP with the 5spd being 215hp and you lose even more on 94 or 95s. the 97 and 98 have gotten rid of the vacum boost brakes which is a plus also. After the gauges prolly the most bang for the buck is a plate. After that injectors and maybe a GSK. Exhaust mods dont do much for HP but can help with EGTs but a straight pipe will do wonders for that also. I tried a BHAF and liked it a lot and then tried a an AFE 20-40044 and that made a noticeable difference in smoke reduction which tells me more of my fuel is being burned, = more HP.

 

[DBCooper]

fest3er, I have personal experience with the stock input shaft on a upgraded trans. I chose not to put the billet input shaft in when the trans was built and broke it pulling a little ol 6000 lb. travel trailer with a VERY mild engine(#6 plate, 15. 5 on the timing 3k gov springs and no cat are all that I've done). It turned out that the stock input shaft was cast very poorly and wasn't able to handle the added resistance of the upgraded torque converter. In other words, the torque converter wasn't just spinin', it was transfering the torque and the shaft left me with a very large bang. I wasn't flogging it. As a matter of fact, I was in traffic and couldn't if I wanted to. I must say that the good people at DTT had me back on the road in less than 24hrs. I really cannot say enough about thier customer service. (Let all the crybabys flame away here). Because of some peoples inability to keep transmission threds civil I generally stay out of them, but thought this might help someone on the fence with upgraded shafts.

Dan