Post here for Porting and Polishing thread.

[Mel Fuelling]

Dave,

I have been very satisfied with the modified h1c I purchased from you last year. It really filled the bill for performance on a budget for me.

The most noticable difference is how much easier it maintains

speeds at 65+(in the 2,000-2,900 rpm range).



As an AMA novice in the mid 60's, I cut some intake piston skirts

and tried to improve the flow of some 2 stroke ports(and of course, saw some really butchered up work and some work that looked good, but had a short fuse. ) Since then I've never missed the chance to take a peek at good port work.

When I removed my h1c and compared it to the one you sent me, it was obvious that you are a very serious student of the art, but what was most impressive is how nicely it works for me. (It also increased my boost from 26# to 29#). A nice side effect is that

it caused my wife to remark, "boy, that really made a difference"

as we were merging with traffic.



Thanks,

Mel

 

[hdm48]

Thanks Mel. I am glad you are happy.



Joe,

that is an interesting site. I just wish it were so easy. And if one used abrasive rolls only to port a head or what ever, it would take a month. But it does have some good pictures and tech talk.





Dave

 

[Jonesy]

I'm getting ready to port and polish a new 16 housing , and It's pretty easy to see what you where talking about as to what to take off where the exhaust manifold and housing meet, but where the turbine blades and exhaust meet I'm not too clear. There was a pic of a housing where too much had been taken off. Any assistance would be appreciated

 

[hdm48]

Where the turbin blades meet the exhaust is an area that unless you have a 90% tool, you shouldn't try to do anything. It is "inside" the housing and very hard to get to and even harder to see. You must use a mirror.

But if you are going to rework this area, just remove casting flaws and try to get a nice radius as it enters the blade area.

Don't try to get to this using a straight-in cutter as you will change the aproach angle and reduce flow. If anything, just polish it.

Most of the time, I find that this area is good enough to leave alone. (at least they did something right)

Remember, it is up to you how much you remove. If you are uncomfortable going as far as the pics show, then don't. If you do nothing else, just match up the center to the exhaust housing. That in itself will help some.



Dave

 

[Jonesy]

Thanks, I'll leave that part alone. Post later on results

 

[P Madrid]

A few years ago I read an article about flow porting/polishing, a machine that ran/forced an abrasive material trough the ports. Has any one else come across this and could it work on our stuff?



Pablo

 

[JLEONARD]

a machine that ran/forced an abrasive material trough the ports

We have one at work. . it's called a "dyno-flow" machine.

Not worth the trouble to set one up for this kind of work ... in my opinion anyway. It's for finer polishing than what you are doing here.

Jay

 

[P Madrid]

Thanks, Jay, Its been a while and I did not have all the details. I'm guessing that its expensive to set these up. I was thinking of doing the manual porting and then fine polishing with one of the machines, but I'll take your word about not been wort it.



Pablo

 

[csnider]

Hi,

does anyone know what year that exhaust housing is in the port and polish pictures?. . My exhaust housing port is rectangular were it meets the head(at least I think it is. the gasket is)... my truck is a 93. has anyone ported the rectangular type? Does it need to be gasket matched ?... Thanks for the info. . Chuck

 

[hdm48]

Csnider,

That manifold is from a 24valver. And yes, i have ported many 12 valve manifolds. all the rules apply to square ports as they due to round ports. It is my opinion that a square port is better than a round one because it stops the air from spinning. But then, a "D" port is even better.



Dave