Post turbo EGT?

[turbo lcc]

What is the MAX temp I should ever see with a Post Turbo EGT gauge?

 

[Cooker]

900 degrees



Short burst above this should be ok.

 

[Sky]

Only 900??? So 900 pre turbo= 1350 post turbo?? I thought it was only 200-300 degree difference? I run post turbo and I hit 1000 quite often.

 

[KatDiesel]

Typically you add 300° to a Post Turbo reading. However at times this is merely a "guess". Any one that turns up the fuel should go with a Pre-turbo pyro, it takes the guess work out.



It was proven sometime ago (on a Ford PowerStroke) that there was almost a 600° difference between pre and post turbo readings in one case.



There were alot of comments about this Sky on that injector poll thread... . if you modify the wategate to gain 5lbs of boost or so you'll have some lower EGT's. I would do that as soon as you could.

 

[Sky]

Is there anyway I can "fill my post turbo tap" and then tap preturbo?

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by Sky

Is there anyway I can "fill my post turbo tap" and then tap preturbo?

I am assuming you tapped the lil elbow off the back of the trubo. . right? Just find the same size "plug" (whatever size your hole is) and plug it off. OR you could use that for a Isspro Turbo Shutdown thingy. I forget the exact name but it uses post turbo to shut down the truck after you take out the keep an walk away.



You said in another post you were ready to spend more $$$... what do you intend to do? Are you going to change the turbo? Talk to Piers maybe he has an elbow laying around you could trade him for if ya don't wanna plug yours or use it.

 

[swamp rat]

Fill PT Tap

Maybe a torch and brazing rod, or a small flat head bolt & washer inserted from inside outwards with a nut and lock washer, and a spot braze tacked on top for extra insurance?

 

[HC]

Don't plug it - keep your post turbo temp, too. It is the one that is more accurate for telling when to shut down. The old threads discuss the whys...

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by HC

Don't plug it - keep your post turbo temp, too. It is the one that is more accurate for telling when to shut down. The old threads discuss the whys...

It all depends on IF he wants to spend the money on a new gauge and a new thermocouple. Or if he wants to use the current one and move it to preturbo. Thats also the reason I mentioned the Isspro Turbo Monitor... . it'll shut down the truck for him. Again it depends on how much $$$ he wants to spend on what.

 

[Cooker]

KAT,

I thought you's know better. He doesn't need a new gauge just a new thermocouple and a DPDT switch. Depending on the brand thermocouples can be as low as $35.



I agree to have pre and post probes is the best of both worlds.



-Ryan

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by Cooker

KAT,

I thought you's know better. He doesn't need a new gauge just a new thermocouple and a DPDT switch. Depending on the brand thermocouples can be as low as $35.



I agree to have pre and post probes is the best of both worlds.



-Ryan

As you said all depends on the brand..... not all thermocouples are compatable Thats why I said what I said.

 

[Sky]

Originally posted by Cooker

KAT,

I thought you's know better. He doesn't need a new gauge just a new thermocouple and a DPDT switch. Depending on the brand thermocouples can be as low as $35.



I agree to have pre and post probes is the best of both worlds.



-Ryan

Ah that would be cool to just switch it back and forth useing the same guage. Didnt know you could do that.



Kat, yes I am very seriously considering getting piers turbo, i talked to him at Timberline in Saturday. But I am not sure I need it yet. I drove Joes truck (TDR name 24valve dsl) He has the same set up as me except he has dd2's and the hy35 modified a little to where he can see about 28 lbs of boost, I get 20 max. Oh and he has a RE0880 K&N, I have a Stock box K&N. So anyway his truck cools way faster then mine does. He just sits and waits maby 10-20 seconds at the most to cool and mine takes a good min. So im trying to figure out why he is getting so much cooler then i am with the dd2's and I have the 275's. Does the RE0880 make the difference, or is it the dd2's that do it? Or is it the differnt muffler for the exhaust he uses. I am guessing its a mix of all the above. I would hate to spend around $1000 for a new turbo and can get away with useing mine. I think what I need to do is get a preturbo reading and then maby upgrade the other stuff and leave the turbo till last to see if I really need it.

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by Sky

Kat, yes I am very seriously considering getting piers turbo, i talked to him at Timberline in Saturday. But I am not sure I need it yet. I drove Joes truck (TDR name 24valve dsl) He has the same set up as me except he has dd2's and the hy35 modified a little to where he can see about 28 lbs of boost, I get 20 max. Oh and he has a RE0880 K&N, I have a Stock box K&N. So anyway his truck cools way faster then mine does. He just sits and waits maby 10-20 seconds at the most to cool and mine takes a good min. So im trying to figure out why he is getting so much cooler then i am with the dd2's and I have the 275's. Does the RE0880 make the difference, or is it the dd2's that do it? Or is it the differnt muffler for the exhaust he uses. I am guessing its a mix of all the above. I would hate to spend around $1000 for a new turbo and can get away with useing mine. I think what I need to do is get a preturbo reading and then maby upgrade the other stuff and leave the turbo till last to see if I really need it.

Well theres a few reasons prolly. The main one being at the very minimum he as a 12cm² housing where as you have a 9cm² housing. Thats the biggest difference. Also the increased airflow from the RE0880 prolly adds to that. With your mods once you add the spring and then twist the wire to get 27 or 28lbs of boost that "Should" lower your EGT's enough to stay with your current turbo. In most cases every 1 psi you increase you lower EGT by 25°. However when it comes to towing it might be a different story ( I don't tow). What I would do is get the spring (see the spring post EMD made), install it and see what that does to your post turbo temps. Then I would get a preturbo tap in when you can and comapre the readings. Then if when you tow and your always at 1300° then I would consider a Piers turbo. Thats the order I would hit your problem with. Make sure after you install the spring, you get some new post turbo numbers to compare to the preturbo numbers (to see if 300° was a good guess on adding). Are you going to leave the post gauge in? or move it to pre? Or still undecided?

 

[Sky]

I order the RE-0880 today so that may help. I think I would like to try that switch thing to show both pre and post turbo. Does anyone know exactly what I need to do this with the Autometer ultra lights? Any help or part numbers would be great! If I dont go that route then I will move it to pre turbo. I will look up that spring deal, but remeber I have a limited amount of mechanical skills (unfortunatly).



I do have a question though, If Im not at max boost then my egt's wont matter what turbo I have correct?? What I mean is if I get a max now of 20-21 then if im at 15 going up a hill and I am at say 1300 degrees Pre turbo ( I know its not likely) then as long as my boost isnt maxed then I wouldnt matter what turbo I had on right, the egts would be the same as long as it wasnt maxed out?? Or am I way off on this? Im still educating my self here so bare with me.



Mike

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by Sky

I order the RE-0880 today so that may help. I think I would like to try that switch thing to show both pre and post turbo. Does anyone know exactly what I need to do this with the Autometer ultra lights? Any help or part numbers would be great! If I dont go that route then I will move it to pre turbo. I will look up that spring deal, but remeber I have a limited amount of mechanical skills (unfortunatly).



I do have a question though, If Im not at max boost then my egt's wont matter what turbo I have correct?? What I mean is if I get a max now of 20-21 then if im at 15 going up a hill and I am at say 1300 degrees Pre turbo ( I know its not likely) then as long as my boost isnt maxed then I wouldnt matter what turbo I had on right, the egts would be the same as long as it wasnt maxed out?? Or am I way off on this? Im still educating my self here so bare with me.



Mike

Since your going to use Autometer, I would call their tech line or email them and pose the question to them.



Also in the spring post I asked EMD if he wanted my spring or if I could send mine to you. So go read this post Hehe



Your question..... I don't have time to answer it, I have to get ready for work. . but I will get back to you on it as soon as I get home in the morning. Or maybesomeone else will answer in the meantime.