2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Power Lock Issue - Driver Door

[Joe Mc]

A few weeks back I noticed a whirr (driver door only) when I hit the lock on the key fob. I'd look to see if the door was locked and it wasn't I'd hit the lock button a second time and it'd lock. Sometimes it worked fine sometimes not. So I take the door latch mechanism out and man it was caked w/old white grease, now yellow and hard. So I take it apart as much as I dared to and cleaned it all up reassembling with new white grease, and gave the electrical portion of the lock a good blast w/WD-40. The whirr is coming from the electric lock part of the latch mechanism, like there's a stripped tooth or? So I put it all back together and it worked fine . . . until a few days ago. Now the whirr is back - hit the fob button and sometimes it locks sometimes it whirrs. Now today on the way home the auto lock (15 mph and it locks) function stopped working.



Anyone have this issue before? My guess is I'll be pricing a new lock mechanism because the plastic case of the electrical portion (where the gears are) appears to be heat welded/sealed and non-serviceable.



Any ideas?



Thanks.

 

[jhoughton]

I had the same thing happen to my passenger door. Took it apart as you did and as you said it's a sealed unit. Replaced it and have had no issues since. Cost was right at $150 from the dealer. If you have more than one dealer available I suggest you call each. There was a $20 price differance between the three I called. Took my dealer one day to get it in. They ordered it over the phone and I picked it up the next day.

 

[CCiatteo]

I too had the same issue. Your lock mechanism is dead or dieing. I see you are in Levittown, I got mine through Dick Greenfield Dodge earlier this summer and $150+/- sounds about right. I can't find the receipt at the moment.

Chris

 

[ed9824v]

mine is doing that right now. I have not had time to work on it yet. I am fortunate to have and extra crashed truck I will take the mechanism out of It looks like. ED

 

[JCyrbok]

Mine started doing that a couple of years ago. At first I think that it was just when it was real cold out and that the linkage etc might just be tight from the cold.



Then it started to do it intermintently in the summer too. Eventually put 2 and 2 together and noticed that my problems started when my driver side lower door skin finally rusted through and was likley letting some moiture into the door and possibly rusting some of the door lock linkage stuff.



Sounds good atleast. havent done anything to it yet as I am gonna replace the doors next year with a set of decent doors from a down south truck.



J-

 

[Joe Mc]

I too had the same issue. Your lock mechanism is dead or dieing. I see you are in Levittown, I got mine through Dick Greenfield Dodge earlier this summer and $150+/- sounds about right. I can't find the receipt at the moment.



Chris

Chris - I use Greenfield. Reedman and the 5 star on 130 in Burlington I have no use for.



I guess $150 is doable, beats having my wallet stolen and whatever other goodies I have inside, if I think it locked and it didn't



Thanks

 

[LandShark]

My passenger side has been doing it about 1 of 3 tries for about 10 years ago. Driver side started to do the same maybe 1 of 10 tries a couple of years ago. If it's $150 per side to fix I think I can wait maybe 20 years to fix and just check the locks when I hit the button.

 

[Joe Mc]

Picked up a latch assy from a "U-Pull-It" today. It was from a 98 Caravan, I traced the bolt holes and the strike opening from my truck on a piece of paper and matched up to the Caravan. After paying $5. 00 for it I looked and the mechanism seems a bit shorter but it looks like the latch will catch the strike. We'll see if it even works tomorrow. I figure for $5 it owes me nothing if it doesn't work - when I took it out all I had to do was loosen the 3 bolts that mount it to the door - the window, door panel, outside handle were already removed. It took less than 3 minutes of my time so it if works good if not then I keep searching the yards.

 

[CCiatteo]

I found the receipt for my door lock mechanism. Much cheaper than I thought.

Mechanism part #55076291ab 118E Latch-fro - lists for 143. 00, I paid 102. 72

At the same time I had to put a new passenger side window switch in.

Part #4373860 012B2 Switch-Do List 38. 50, I paid 27. 72

Chris

 

[ed9824v]

any trick to removing the door panel, I want to tackle the job soon ED

 

[Joe Mc]

Chris - thanks for the info. Not sure if the one I got at the u-pull-it from a 98 Caravan will work.

Ed9824v - take the screws out of the pocket/pull (grab to close the door), the one up and forward by the mirror joy stick (elec mirrors) and the one that holds the inside latch release (handle). Then start popping the plastic barbed push thing clamps whatever they're called, begin with a flat wide screwdriver (protect w/elec tape if you wish) at the bottom back corner, then you should be able to see the next along the bottom and work your way across the bottom then up both sides. Once the "things" are released lift up to clear the manual door lock button and the panel should pull away. Remember to check for wires connecting to the lock/window switch and door speaker. The tough one is for the lock/window switch. I try to slice the plastic moisture barrier that is glued to the door only in the area where you'll need access then tape to seal when you're done. Installation is reverse - only exception is if some of the fasteners (push things) stay with the door instead of the panel. Just work the stuck ones out of the door, slide them back in the slots on the panel and line up the top hole and check the next one each time you secure one. Then put the screws in the handles, etc back together.

 

[ed9824v]

Chris - thanks for the info. Not sure if the one I got at the u-pull-it from a 98 Caravan will work.



Ed9824v - take the screws out of the pocket/pull (grab to close the door), the one up and forward by the mirror joy stick (elec mirrors) and the one that holds the inside latch release (handle). Then start popping the plastic barbed push thing clamps whatever they're called, begin with a flat wide screwdriver (protect w/elec tape if you wish) at the bottom back corner, then you should be able to see the next along the bottom and work your way across the bottom then up both sides. Once the "things" are released lift up to clear the manual door lock button and the panel should pull away. Remember to check for wires connecting to the lock/window switch and door speaker. The tough one is for the lock/window switch. I try to slice the plastic moisture barrier that is glued to the door only in the area where you'll need access then tape to seal when you're done. Installation is reverse - only exception is if some of the fasteners (push things) stay with the door instead of the panel. Just work the stuck ones out of the door, slide them back in the slots on the panel and line up the top hole and check the next one each time you secure one. Then put the screws in the handles, etc back together.

Joe thanks for the detailed procedure for removal, well appreciated ED

 

[Bob Cochran]

The push pull things I hate them I call them christmas trees it is what they look like. I never seem to be able to reuse then and get them to hold and i use the specialty tool from Geno's to remove. knowing my problem I ordered a bunch of new ones to have on hand and just put all new ones in. I got them here:

Trim Panel Retainers

 

[Joe Mc]

Ed, That's what this site is all about - you're welcome.

Bob, I just got the tool from Geno's yesterday. Thanks for the link to the clipy doo things.

 

[Bob Cochran]

I hope you have better luck with the clipy doo things than I do. Good luck.

 

[ed9824v]

I hope you have better luck with the clipy doo things than I do. Good luck.

I do have a secret weapon that I got at the swap-meet, a snap on tool that is like a backward working pliers with a flattened ends that you put between the metal of the door and the panel and squeeze and it pry's the panel away from the door.

we will see ED

 

[Bob Cochran]

Got to be better than a putty knife!!!!

 

[Joe Mc]

#ad




Could this be the tool? I'm sure it works great, but at $40 - wow! Glad you scored it up at a swap meet.



I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for stuff like this when I go to the Hershey Antique Auto show/swap meet next Friday (10/8).

 

[Rocco]

I have something similar that just started on my driver door.

My key fob unlocks passenger side door (front and rear) on quad cab but not driver door. I cannot unlock driver door with key. I cannot physically pull up the door lock on the driver door. However, I can barely open the door from the inside. I am thinking it is the switch module.

I have been making an effort to keep a towel over my switches on the driver door when I open it in rainy weather. I'm concerned it is a water trap.