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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) power mods on a 99 w/out a tuner

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission no headlights

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I have a superchips tuner, which came with the truck when I bought it, otherwise I would not have it. Anyways, I always kept it on performance, unless I was towing, and here lately the truck just seems to run too hot, or just act strange, so I returned the truck to stock on the programmer, and it seems to run a lot smoother. I have rv275 injectors and a boost fooler, and boost elbow, I can crack 30 lbs w/out the tuner on, but it really took a lot of the throttle response away that I had grown accustomed to. But I am going to deal with it because my fuel mileage went from 15. 5 to almost 19. So I was thinking of what else I could do as far as power mods without resorting to chips and tuners? The superchip never really increased boost numbers, just really gave more throttle response.
 
I have a superchips tuner, which came with the truck when I bought it, otherwise I would not have it. Anyways, I always kept it on performance, unless I was towing, and here lately the truck just seems to run too hot, or just act strange, so I returned the truck to stock on the programmer, and it seems to run a lot smoother. I have rv275 injectors and a boost fooler, and boost elbow, I can crack 30 lbs w/out the tuner on, but it really took a lot of the throttle response away that I had grown accustomed to. But I am going to deal with it because my fuel mileage went from 15. 5 to almost 19. So I was thinking of what else I could do as far as power mods without resorting to chips and tuners? The superchip never really increased boost numbers, just really gave more throttle response.



If you are getting 30* out of a stock turbo with the mods in your sig I would say an upgraded turbo will help cool things down. I know when I added my new injectors,the turbo had to be upgraded in mine and I wasn't even getting 25*... . and you are at 30* with an assumed stock turbo-based on sig!!I have seen you post in the Maryland ..... Members Rigs Spotted ... . column:where are you located?



Alan
 
after the injectors went in, my egts actually went down. With the chip on, my coolant temp would rise pretty fast, after pulling a steep grade it would go a little past the 190 mark, and when I would go to shift it into reverse while still real hot, it would act like it was going to shut down but pick itself back up again. Since being on stock, I havent seen any of these problems, engine stays at or below 190, egts dont go above 1200 pulling a trailer. I keep the filter clean. I was thinking about a turbo, but wasnt sure what to go with with my limited mods. AClayton, I am in Boonsboro. My dad has done a lot of work around boyds and surrounding area, I know the area pretty well.
 
When pulling a grade with a load it is acceptable for the coolant temp to rise, provided it doesn't get to the overheated zone on the gauge. As long as the egt's do not stay at 1350* very long you should be fine.

With the mods in my sig I can pull any mountain in 5th gear at 60 mph and not get near 1300* and it takes a long grade like that to get my coolant temp too hot. The Smarty does a great job keeping the egt's and thereby the coolant temp down. BTW, the TST box is on only when in "race" mode.

Godspeed,
Trent
 
What about the breather bottle, it is in the timing cover. If it vents oil vapors , they get in the radiator and it collects dust, preventing the radiator from doing its job. It is not really evident that it is so dirty until you really look close.

Take the bottle off, put a hose on it to get it away from the radiator.
 
what is the flexlite fan? Even when the truck is unloaded the temp will still rise sharply after running up a steep grade, like the road to my house, I will let it idle til egts get down to about 300, but coolant just stays up there, and if I go to put it in reverse or in drive, the engine will change its tune, like its gonna shut down for a second, then picks right back up, it only does that when hot, not cold. I flushed the system not too long ago, and keep a screen in front of the radiator to catch bugs and such, may have to yank the radiator out and clean it before too long.
 
I haven't had a problem with mine as far as tempurature is concerned. When I installed mine, I wired it without the thermostat that flexalite had sent with the fan. What I did is wired it to come on two ways 1) when the a/c is on the fan will come on everytime the clutch kicks on. 2) instead of using the thermostat that flexilite sent, I wired it through the firewall to a toggle switch, where I can turn the fan on and keep it on anytime I feel uncomfortable which way the temp. guage is going. I've towed over the advertised "do not go over 18k gcvw" half a dozen times and haven't had a problem.
 
make sure the breather bottle vapor has not clogged the fins in your radiator. Mine was completely clogged at 150k, couldn't tow 6k up a 6% at 35mph without getting over 210F. Buy a new bottom radiator hose when you change it out... and get some heater hose and route the bottle about 5 ft back.

you cant see the clogging from the front of the engine, look from behind where the fan is.
 
on my 99 I got a double male plastic barbed hose connector, 2 hose clamps, 10' of 3/4" hose. Connected the double male to the end of (shortened hose) breather hose, ran the 10' length from the trans skid plate along the frame rail forward to and connected to the other end of the double male end, then trimmed the hose to length so if just hangs below the skid plate by 1" and wire tied hose along frame. Now any oil mist goes below truck and way back from the radiator. It's incredible how much junk gets attracted to the oil on the radiator and reduces the cooling efficiency.
 
thanks for the replies, I will have to work on it when I get back home, up in minnesota with work til sept 25, I have seen a lot of nice cummins pick ups around here, esp. in the duluth area, have not noticed any tdr emblems though
 
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