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power steering trick not working?

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Replacement door panels

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rotor will not come off. tried to take off as a unit! the 4 bolts are out about 1/4 inch.i tried the power steering thing on 3 of the bolts, not popping.to get the axle out it looks like the ball joint frame must come off? 2006, 2500.
 
It always helps to first spray everything down with PB Blaster once or twice and let it sit overnight. Also, if you are safely supported on the axle, you CAN beat on the hub a bit, even while trying to use the PS pump to push it off...sometimes the additional shock of the single jack will help loosen the hub and let the PS pump push it of.
 
When I did mine I did two opposing corners. Only had them threaded in about a 1/4 inch. Used a combination of sockets and extensions so it would hit it fairly far out. I had to switch corners a couple times, but it did pop right out.

Keep at it. It will move.
 
rotor will not come off. tried to take off as a unit! the 4 bolts are out about 1/4 inch.i tried the power steering thing on 3 of the bolts, not popping.to get the axle out it looks like the ball joint frame must come off? 2006, 2500.

Are you saying the rotor won't come off of the hub or are you saying the bearing wont come out of the frame??? Big difference....
 
well it all came out.but the pressure i had to put on the steering wheel was very hard!. dust guard got wrecked, i will try to save it. the clips that hold the rotor on , toasted them.is that the only thing that holds the rotor on? yes mark it took many small movements, to get it moving. the left side is still ok i will do it in a few months.
 
I see that you are in CT, so what probably has happened is the rust has built up inside the rotor and the backside of the hub face is stuck against it. I had the exact same thing happen to me two years ago, had never seen it before. I had to keep heating and beating the rotor until the rust started to let go and fall out before I could separate the rotor from the hub. When all is well it just slides off without force.
 
Very common around here if you don't wire wheel the hub surface and apply a light coat of antisieze. Same goes for the rotor - wheel surface, this can actually be worse depending on material of the rim.
 
Mine did it two years ago in spite of previous liberal applications of Never Seez, never seen anything like it before. Just trapped the hub in place.
 
should i put some grease in the abs hole?, how much and what kind? thanks for the help. the new axle should be here tomorrow.
 
I wold grease it through the hole. Any wheel bearing grease would be fine to get in there. I needed to use a needle type fitting to get it past the teeth in the bearing.
 
should i put some grease in the abs hole?, how much and what kind? thanks for the help. the new axle should be here tomorrow.



I hope that does not mean you are trying to reuse the old hub, that would be a mistake. Greasing the unit bearing can be done thru the ABS hole but you really need a fitting to go in the holed push the grease into the voids, a quality high tmep grease is recommended.
 
Yes, the unit bearing. That should be replaced now you beat on things to get it apart, and, it is 12 years old
 
Yea, not to mention the rotors are doing funny things on mine. not that I beat the dog snot out of them to get them off....
New bearings and rotors for me....
 
I tried everything to get my rotors to come off. Eventually got a puller to fit and apply pressure on the rotor while pushing on the axle. Then with a large hammer was able to beat the rotor off. I was planning on replacing the rotor anyway. However after beating the heck out of things and reassembling it turned out that I had also destroyed the sealed bearings in the hubs. Well at least it wasn't hard to get the rotors off the second time.
 
I went through the stuck rotor thing last week. Mine had not been apart in 14 years and no amount of deadblow, solvent, or cussing would get them off. In searching the interwebs, i found a trick that worked great for me. Mine is a 2wd but i think it works on 4wd too.


Use two 1/2 bolts and nuts through the caliper adapter and a piece of steel to make a press. Hold the bolt and turn the nut slowly until it gives. Go from one bolt to the other to keep even pressure on the rotor. You have to have some sense about how much torque to apply to keep from busting the bottom bolt fitting. If it gets firmer than you're comfortable with, hit it with a dead blow hammer. when it does give, turn the rotor and repeat. It worked so good i took a picture.


rotor press.jpg


rotor press.jpg
 
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