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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Power Tow Mirror Swap

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It's been a little while now since some members have swapped the power tow mirrors onto their non-power factory mirrors. So the question is, how is it working? Is the new mirror still working like it is supposed to? Is the control knob still working? And what about that flange that you had to bend the tabs on to remove the mirror head. Has it loosened and does it wobble? Thanks for any input, I am abut to take the plunge and order a set of the power mirrors, but I would like to be sure first. :D Any advice is appreciated. SargeOo.
 
Mine have been on for quite some time, and as far as I know I was the first to do the swap, they are still flawless, and working perfectly!



Rob
 
Thanks Rob, I was hoping the "original" poster would reply. I am getting CRS disease (can't remember s***) and was not sure who it was. Was it you that posted the link with pictures of the swap?? I am about ready, and could use all the help I can get. Thanks, Sarge:D
 
No I didn't post any pics, sorry. I did the swap, and didn't take any notes (only mental) or pictures, I didnt think anyone else in they're right mind would want to do this. :D I wish I had some pics, it would have made things much easier for other guys.





Rob
 
I just did the swap this weekend. My 03 mirrors were on back order for almost 4 months. I wonder if there has been a minor design change on them though. I had to modify both the passenger and drivers side per Rob's instructions. Had to grind off two little parts of the casting. I could not find a way to not modify the passenger's side. I could have overlooked something though.



Everything else was right on per Rob's instructions. Thank you Rob!!!



They work perfectly and seem just as tight as the stock ones. How has everyone dealt with connecting the heated part though? I'm thinking a simple toggle switch. Any idea what wires in the HVAC controls that work the heat option?



I've GOT to stop spending money on this truck!!



The mirrors are great though. Thanks again Rob!



Chris
 
Comforting to know it is working well. Definitely on the "short list". Thanks for bringing it back up. A fall project for me.



Bob Weis
 
Cost of 03 mirrors

Towpro,



I paid $417 for the 03 mirros, switch, knob and nut (to hold the switch in the door panel.



Ain't cheap and sure ain't easy. But, I'm glad to have them. Would have been much harder to do, if I'd have even attempted it, without Rob's instructions.



rweis, no problem. Glad to convey my experience. If someone needs it, let me know and I'll try to document the wiring connections. They really are easy though. Only took me a few combinations and I got it right.



Thanks again,



Chris
 
?????????????????/

just finished taking the first 03 mirror apart, there's a plastic

peice between the spring and the metal spring retainer, has anybody

been able to save this piece, because when the retainer flew off along with the spring [almost scared the sh?t out of me, whew]

the plastic "gasket" broke up, do i need this piece, and how did you put the reatiner/spring back in, did you use a large socket

without using the "mechainc's wire", have to tell you, this is spooky to do, i'm afraid of breaking something... .



got the mirrors from a Dodge recycling place in Sacramento, they had another set of "03 mirrors on the shelf, the place is next to

a river in Sacramento



thanks

dave
 
If any of you guys doing the mirror swap have a leftover drivers side, flip-up tow mirror that you want to get rid of :D I'll trade you some 3 LED amber marker lights for it. Here's a pic of them.



Jim
 
Dave,



I put the plastic rings back on, but I don't see that you HAVE to. I think I may have saved the old ones from the swap, so if you need one, let me know and I can mail it out to you.



Yeah, that first time you pop that spring, whew, time for an underwear change!!



I did wire the spring compressed and then, after replacing the cage nut, just used a small chisel and broke the wire. I did hold my head to the "side" in case that cage nut came flying back off!!



I was going to use a big socket and compress the spring back down and have the socket replace the cage nut at the same time, but I was afraid I'd break the plastic housing on the mirror. You might could disassemble the plastic from the bracket and put this in a press or use a big C clamp and press it back together. But, the wire and chisel bit work fine.



Yeah, it was a rather nerve racking job, but the first time I flipped the mirrors up to tow and could adjust both sittin' in the seat, it made it all worth while!!



Good luck and let me know about the plastic ring.



Chris
 
Ijust ordered the '01 and '03 tow mirrors to do the conversion on my truck. Can't wait until both sets come in so I can start the transformation.



Any safety tips to make this accident free? Sounds alittle nerve racking.



My biggest concern is breaking something. After spending this much the last thing I want is to break something.
 
Kingram

Hi Kingram...



thanks for the offer... .....

getting off graveyard tomorrow morning, and will tackle

the whole job tomorrow after i get up. but may wait till wednesday, as tomorrow will be over 100 deg's here in sunny cal.



again thanks for the offer. .



dave
 
STG2500,



I really can't think of anything that Rob didn't cover in his instructions. Other than I had to perform the casting mod's on both mirrors, not just the drivers side. But, I could have very possibly overlooked something that caused me to have to do this.



I removed the big nut and spring from the 03 mirros first. It had the power/heat wiring harness running through the nut and that wire kinda retained the nut from flying off. On the 2nd Gen mirrors, I placed a C clamp over the nut to prevent it from flying off as I removed it. But, I'm a wimp and hate pain. Most others would just let that nut and spring slap them in the face and go on with life:D



I would recommend a die grinder or the like to modify the castings. Makes it go much faster than a file. Or at least a grinding wheel in a drill.



Just work slow and watch what you are doing. It took me several hours to do it. I am rather slow though and like to take lots of breaks to admire my progress...



PM me with any questions once you get into it. I can give you my number.



Chris
 
DOH !!!!!

Kingram...



i didn't think about leaving the power wire as is, i cut off

the plug in, then pulled it through and out of the base, to just let it hanged there, on the next mirror [tomorrow]' i'll just let the power wire as is so the snap retainer and spring will just stay,

instead of going across my garage as the first one did.



and what are you talking about on the "casing", filing them,

did i miss something again???? :--)



also, i just massaged 4 finger's of the retainer before the

dang thing flew off, how many did you do before your's

exploded ?



thanks



big day tomorrow, mirror wise that is... ;)



dave
 
Hey Dave,



You have to file or grind two small casting "bumps" or stops off of the mirros. One off of the old (gen 2) mirror base and one off of the new (gen 3) mirror heads. This is per the instructions. They are cast in to prevent the mirrors from swinging too far (when you fold them in). But the new head and old base are not compatable with each other, so they have to come off.



Not a big deal, but a file would take forever, that is why I mentioned the grinder. Does this make sense?



I think 4 or 5 let my cage nut come loose. No doubt, you know when it does!!



Sarge,



You have to use the gen2 power switch, knob and nut. It goes in the little hole (that is plugged) in the upper part of the door panel, right behind the mirror base.



The gen3 switches are in the door pull, near the PW/PL switches. Totally different design.



I hope I explained this ok.



Chris
 
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