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towing question....

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Power Upgrade Questions

I am looking into upgrading my truck. I have 108000 on it so I dont have to worry about anything from DC anymore.



I have some question for all you guys who have done this and probably have answered the same questions before.



First on the gauges I am looking at the Isspro EGT, boost (40Lb), and was wondering on a 97 12V if I should also put a fuel pressure gauge on it. I have read where some years you should have one. Also on a 12V how would you recommend installing it.



I also want to get a 3000RPM spring kit and a TST#11 plate. Also a AFC spring kit.



I tow a 10000Lb 5th wheel and am worried about my EGT going to high. For those who have done this kind of mod should I be doing some exhaust or intake work first. I do have a K&N in the factory air box.



As with most people I have just so much budget to work with and I dont want to get myself into trouble.



Thanks for all your help

DAZ
 
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Get some gauges.....



Call Piers (604) 853-9396 and order the Governor Spring Kit. It's so easy to install, and made such a HUGE difference on my truck... . I'd recommend it as being the 1st BOMB anyone should make on a 12-V.



Matt
 
:confused: I am afraid I am going to sound dumb here... but whats new! holeshot you say the spring kit is so easy to do, But when I look down the AFC hole I just say "YIKES". how is it done? pump on truck? I really want to get a gov. spring kit but just cant swing it yet, and I am a little intimidated about going that deep into the pump!:--) ,Jim
 
You don't even have to take off the afc housing to do the GSK.

Take off the shut-down solenoid and access the 7/8" plug behind it's lever.....



Rotate the engine around until you see the spring pack... . work a little magic..... rotate again until you see the 2nd spring pack... do a little more magic... . put everything back together and you're done.



Over-simplified?... . Yeah, but it's really easy once you understand what's involved... which isn't much.



Matt
 
Thanks guys the gov. spring kit sounds like the 1st (after gauges) thing to do.



I would like to do this in stages to see what happens. I am still wondering about this type of setup. I did call Piers and they said depending on the towing I will be doing that a 16cm turbo housing might be in order. I am still wondering what you all have seen with the #11 plate and EGT.



Matt does good instructions come with the gov. springs I to have not been into the engine much and as so I dont want to mess anything up.



Thanks again



Dave Z
 
DAZ, the instructions that Piers provides are very good..... when you call and order the GSK, ask him about it and he'll tell you everything you need to know.



Piers' # 604-853-9396



Hope this helps,

Matt
 
matt,



what will the GSK do that i haven't already done with a #8 plate and turbo boost?



btw..... i don't think you can actually make power. you can transfer energy. it's been buggin me lately. ;)
 
Sounds like you gotta do the install with a dental mirror!!! When you remove the selinoid, that side of the pump faces down... how do you line-up the stuff? How do you turn the motor gently?
 
Daz, I have a 94. I too pull a 10,000lb trailer. stock the truck was having trouble. so I upgraded. I put the cam in the pump, put the 16mm housing on the turbo, and had the auto transmission rebuilt all by blue chip. It was like someone lifted the antenna and slipped a new truck under it. it was awesome. Now I was having increased exhaust temps pulling the trailer so I invested in the 4 inch exhaust and I gained 100 degress. Tahts my two cents. After hearing about this spring I may look into this also.
 
DAZ, there's a good chance your cat converter will need gutted out. Mine plugged at 19k. A better muffler will help when you get started with the other stuff. I didn't have an egt problem with my 11, HX35/14, 4" exhaust and mammoth air filter. The 11 is the max for a stock setup. Then anything you do to improve flow will bring egt down. Craig
 
DAZ,



I just did the 3K gov. spring this weekend and it was really not that hard and well worth it. :D Follow the instructions and measure carefully and you should have no problems. I did not have to change the idle setting with the new springs, it was almost exactly the same as before. Do a search on governor springs, and Who’s installed there own geverner spring kit??? That is how it was spelled. There is some very good info on the site.



I have the # 11 plate installed. I also have the AFC spring kit with the lighter spring installed. When I installed the plate I set it in the same location as the stock plate. Under hard acceleration empty (in 5th gear) The EGT,s run around 1000+ pre-turbo. Even when pulling my boat, apx. 6,000#, EGT’s run around 1100 on a hard pull (up hill), and this is usually only for a short time because the speed is also climbing fast. I am considering moving the plate ahead some and see what that brings. :)
 
Get the gauges in and then try the #11 plate before the springs. After doing the plate you will feel better about trying the springs. With the 11 plate and 370s towing was fun and EGT could give trouble if you try to pick up speed going up a long hill which is so easy its tempting. I had no EGT trouble on anything if i didnt try to spend to much time with the hammer down. I think if you arnt a hot rodder type the springs wont be as much benefit as the plate but if you can drive a truck with them you would know more. The fuel pressure gauge is not a must but is helpful for trouble shooting. I installed mine after canceling a vacation trip from lack of power and spending money at a shop for stuff it didnt need when all it needed was an overflow valve and the gauge would have shown low fuel pressure.
 
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DAZ,

On the gauges... . a 40 lb boost gauge is too low. Get one that will read up to 50 or 60. My truck will hit 40 boost and my mods are considered med. hp, around 350 or so (guesstimate, never dyno'd)



The gsk is a little more difficult than a plate change, IMO, mostly because it requires more guts to do. Piers instructions are very good, except it doesn't tell you how many springs and seats are in the stock pump. I don't know if it varies or not, but my pump had 3 springs, 2 bottom seats and 1 washer per side. You need to make sure you pull all of them out. You do need to have a vernier caliper and a pencil magnet. All the other tools would be common stuff found in most tool sets. A Sears 120 pc. or larger set would have everything you need, except for the calipers and magnet. Instructions also say it takes about 1 1/2 hrs for a first timer. I took about 2 hours because I dropped a bolt and it didn't end up on the floor. :mad: I spent about 20 minutes with a flashlight looking in all the little hiding places on the frame and suspension for it. Finally found it in the last place I looked. :rolleyes:
 
I have told many people that the Gov spring kit is the best $125 bucks you can spend on a 12 valve. However I agree that you need the TST plate first.
 
Thanks to all. This is of great help. TWeir you have a truck that sounds just like what I am trying to get.



Just to let everybody know I ordered some Bilsteins from Off Road Warehouse friday and the price is still 54. 99 yet I was told the price will be going up this week. They had rears in yet the fronts were back ordered for 3 weeks.



Again thanks to all who posted I need all the help I can get.



On the fuel pressure gauge do any of you know who has a good price on them. Right now Diesel Injection Service looks to have a good price on the EGT and boost gauge. Also has a good price on the piller mount. Where are you guys getting gauges from?
 
My $.02

DAZ,

I basically have the same truck as you except I have a 4. 10 rear end. Like the guys above said:

1. Guages

2. TST Plate (I have the 230/605 but should have got the next

one up) and AFC Spring kit

3. 4" Exhause (Jardine, super simple to install I was amazed

especially since I'm all thumbs when it comes to

this stuff).



One thing I would stay away from is that 3K spring kit. I am a believer that there is only so many revs in an engine, the higher you rev the engine, the shorter the life. Besides, diesels were ment to be low rev'ing machines, thats where the torque is.



Good luck to ya and enjoy.
 
Stay away from the 3k Governor Spring Kit and watch as someone with one passes by you... . Power is increased from idle to the new higher rev limit... . not just at the rev limit. By increasing the amount of fuel throughout the entire RPM range, the engine responds quickly to throttle input and is a HUGE improvement over stock.



The B5. 9L is balanced very well and is perfectly happy operating at up to 3500rpm... all day long. Go above that... and you'll have to start worring.



Diesels are low revving engines... ... that's true to a certain extent, but not to be held as gospel, especially with our engines. Torque peak does occur at RPM's well below the 3500rpm line on the stock tach... . but with increased fuel throughout the operating RPM range... you'll get more torque and horsepower where you need it most..... EVERYWHERE!



Matt
 
thanks

Hey Holeshot..... thanks for the brief expaination of the install ... sounds pretty easyOo. I will be getting one soon :D Jim
 
No problem Jim... . I do what I can to help everyone make more power... . produce more power... . convert more energy, whatever you like to say..... :cool:



Matt
 
I believe I read somewhere that Piers said you can rev the CTD up to 5400 rpm before the bottom end will let go. :eek: . Even if you have a 3k gsk, it doesn't mean you need to rev it that high. I couldn't believe the difference in drivability from idle on up. I can't recommend it enough.
 
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