Powertrax locker, any good?

[PToombs]

I helped my buddy put 1 in a Jeep, obviously I have a little more power.....

What do you guys think of this? Will it hold up? Or will it chow my axles or R&P?

eBay Motors: Powertrax No-Slip 92-0470-3500 Dana 70 35 Spline (item 190224036980 end time May-26-08 10:31:47 PDT)

 

[DCreed]

My buds got them in his jeep it has 350hp and 9" axles 36" tires. loves em.

 

[SmithMichael]

From my experience they're not as tough as a Lock right. That one on ebay is for a 35 spline 70. Ours are 32 spline.

 

[PToombs]

Thanks, I wasn't sure about that. You just saved me from pulling an axle out!

 

[DCreed]

goto "other items" he has 32 spline units!

 

[Moab4x4]

Locker Choice

I argued with myself for months over which locker to use in the Dana 70.

I know two people that have run Lockrites in stock CTD trucks with no problems. One has them in the front and the rear and used to wheel his 92 CTD on some pretty tough trails. Both of those guys are running stock power levels.

I have talked to people with tons of 4wd trail experience and the consensus seems to be that although a Lockrite should be fine, they would go with a Detroit because they are bulletproof.



After looking at the incremental cost of the Detroit, it wasn't that much more. After talking to the guy that installs them all the time, he talked me into doing it myself.



I got the Detroit and after using it on the trails and in the mud, I love it!



1. Remove the rear axle and do this on a bench or sawhorses if you haven't been through a Dana 70 yet.

2. Search TDR for Dana 70 rebuild tips

3. My local guy told me I would be OK without a case spreader, a little harder, but workable. It was.

4. Don't forget to oil the bearing before pressing it on the locker and it will go on easier.

5. Due to time constraints (I was running a jeep safari trail the next day) I simply used the same shims in the same positions and reused the ring gear bolts. (I know, I know... ... ) It worked fine and upon later inspection after breakin the tooth pattern looks good.



If I was using my truck in mud or around the farm, I would probably go Lockrite. easier and cheaper

Here there are lots of sand/rock combo trails and the stress of going from no traction to solid grip on sandstone really puts a strain on driveline components. I went with the Detroit for the brute strength.



With the true locker, I do hear the rear tires slip on pavement (or rock) in turns if I apply too much power and don't let the rear unlock. I will experience more rapid tire wear than I would with lim slip.

Ken

 

[PToombs]

Carl, I saw those last nite! Thanks.



Ken, thanks for your input. I have a buddy that ran a Detroit in his w250 with a 5 speed. He said it didn't shift quick, he had to wait until things slowed down before he could get it in gear. No good at the track or racing. He said it took a little getting used to driving around corners at first.

I plan on mostly empty driving, occasional trailer pulling, and screwing around.

Will a locker fit this use best?

IMO, I think an LSD unit would be optimum, and an air locker 2nd choice, but my budget won't allow it now. I also don't want to trash my axle with the wrong or cheap unit in there.

 

[DCreed]

Keep you eyes peeled for deals! I scored a low miles '01 dana 80 LSD/disc for $500. !! not an everyday thing but they're out there!

 

[Moab4x4]

Pete,

I too would recommend an LSD like a Tracloc or some such before the locker for what you describe. I drive my truck in pretty much the same scenario, daily driver, occasional trailer towing, and goofing off. Goofing off takes two main forms, Rock Crawling and general hotrodding... Teenager stuff. :-laf

I don't have a problem with detroit making shifts slower, the Getrag has never been easy to shift really fast, It will, but not easy. There is a little more backlash with a locker because of the unlocking springs, but not enough to cause problems shifting IMO.

I only find corners a problem if I am really in a hurry or the road is wet or slick. (I have yet to drive in winter with it though) If you accelerate too hard in a tight corner you can cut the rear loose or get a pretty good clunk as the locker unlocks under medium load.



That said, I love the on and offroad performance of the locker. I used to break the right rear wheel loose in third when the turbo woke up if I was going up much of a hill... on pavement. No more. I tried to do a third gear burnout the other day (I know, stupid and adolescent, but fun sometimes) and the rear stuck and the sachs clutch smoked. I have done some pretty quick 0-75's shifting quick enough to feel the bang, but no real racing.

That said, if I wasn't rock crawling, I would put in a LS diff instead of the locker for the smoother operation in corners esp when towing with much tongue weight.

Ken

 

[DCreed]

Also an LSD is adjustable! where as lockers are on or off. and yes snow with a locker can get interesting!

 

[Moab4x4]

Lock-rite failures?

OK, off the topic or Locker vs LS... Locker to Locker comparison now.



Here is I believe a salient question. If anyone has personal experience with either a Lock-rite or Powertrax failure, was it in the lockright or was it a carrier failure? When I was researching this, the carrier weakness as compared to that of a Detroit or ARB was an issue. Is it the most significant issue or is there some other weak link inside the lockrite itself. I suspect that a Lockrite would be plenty tuff for what most of us do.

The hardcore wheelers I know talked me into a Detroit, but I wonder if the cost and install issues were worth it?



Sled pullers have any experience here?