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practical power

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on a practical note,im looking for suggestions for sum more power. lets start with what has been done. fuel pin is turned to deepest spot on the cone(washer removed),power/fuel screw turned in till it stopped and backed 1/2 turn,3200 governor spring, 4. 5 inch exhaust,custom air intake,intercooled,28lbs boost,stock 21cm turbo,stock injectors, egts runnin 1000 after turbo,5sd, 4. 10s.

I tow about 8-10k lbs at elevations from 4000ft-9000ft. Im looking for more practical long sustained power(lot of long grades). im changin to 3. 55 gears. lookin at a 16cm turbo housing and a ole smokey fuel pin.

any other suggestions or adive more than welcome.



oh i got the idle issue fixed, moron me put the top hat and spring for the governor arm on the wrong side of the arm. luckly no harm no foul,thank god!!!Thanks for everybodys help!!!
 
im changing turbo housings to reduce turbo lag and get a little more boost hopefully,ive been told it good for 5-10lbs,hopefully thatll lower the egts. is there anything besides the pods i not want the intown and idle haze? what are the 370's i hear about. i c on ebay a guy in iowa that claims mileage and power with his injectors.

im taking the 4. 10s out for mileage and rpms, 2800rpms at 75!!!!! thats wound alittle tight for my liken. its like driven a semi but with less gears. overdrive at 35 mph!
 
I like my 16 cm housing for spool up, but I can't say I gained any boost. . maybe 1 or 2 psi. But that was before most of my mods.

I have Bully Dog plus 50 injectors. Don't know if they are still availble, but I have zero idle haze and can get 22/25 mpg on a daily basis if I drive sanely, but I'm driving empty 99% of the time.
 
I would suggest some larger injectors and the 16 cm housing as well as advanced timing. I have done this on the two '93's I've had. Don't forget to keep valves adjusted. Some guys port the turbine housing and exhaust manifold to match and smooth out. Check out the cooler Tubz made by Tim worline in the classifieds here. They are a new intake horn. Not sure if it would work perfect on your repower but check it out. Supposed to drop egts by 100 F and more boost. More power and better MPG too.

With my injectors, 16cm, and timing I would max out at 26psi and 1200 F preturbo. I never did the fuel pin or gov spring. My trucks wouldn't hardly smoke though.
 
they will probably work i used most of the dodge stuff,just with a minor bit of modification. how far does i guy advance the timing?
 
Advanced timing should theoretically lower EGTs. If you can find PDR's old site, they have a nice list under the tech section that lists off benifits and disadvantages of advanced timing as opposed to stock timing. I believe advanced timing has more high end power, lower egts, better fuel economy, and less smoke. I think you take a slight hit in low end power though, I'm not sure if I have that backwards though. I've been thinking about doing mine, if I get to it soon, I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Do a search on timing in the title and you will find more info. The timing is retarded a bit for emissions reasons. A little more is good. Too much is hard on rods, bearings and head gaskets. Power up high is better with advanced timing. Moderation is often my motto.
 
I definitely recommend an ATS 3-piece manifold - I've seen about a 200* drop under full throttle. The higher the boost the bigger the net effect. IOW, under low boost the egt's aren't hugely different, but under high boost and high air flow, the egt's you'd expect aren't as high. It's sweet - worth every penny. Since installing one, for the first time I can now set the cruise while towing heavy and not worry about spiking the pyro.

Also, I love my 14 cm collar. At my altitude (6800 ft) it's just right, and I'll hit 40 psi.

- M2
 
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does the ats manifold keep the turbo in the stock location? space is at a premium in the ford chassis. i think im going to bump the timing up alittle this weekend. top of pump towards the motor,correct?? just checkn!! thanks
 
i was looking at the cool tubz and wondering ,if the stainless helps lower the egt's or is it the 3inch size? if its the stainless wouldnt aluminum work better for absorbing the heat?
 
Don't worry about the heat in or out of your intake the stainless is tough and light. It doesn't conduct heat as well as aluminum therefore it will feel cool where aluminum would be warm. It will lower egts because of the larger size and restriction elimination at the intake manifold. If you take your stock piece off you will know what I am talking about.
 
ya, ive looked at that and noticed it leaves something to be desired. so is there any reason that aluminum wont work? i notice thats what sum of th newer trucks have on them?

by the way thanks for all the help and input,hope im not boring u all to death with stupid questions!! thanks again
 
Cast aluminum is probably cheaper and easier for them to manufacture but not the best for the job. To get strength it has to be thick so you lose cross sectional area. Stainless is a lot tougher stuff. On a third gen truck the intake horns really suck. That is why I had Tim build me a cooler tubz for it. It works good. If you need something custom built I am sure Tim would cater to you. I might get one for my '92 one I get her on the road. Heck it should pay for itself in fuel savings anyhow.
 
ill look into that. i need to do sumpn with the air horn if that will help the egt situation, espically be for summer gets here.
 
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