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Practical Slide in Camper Weight

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So my Bfg tires are rated at just over 4000lbs so I assume that means 8k on the rear axle and so if I know my rear axle weight then I know how much more my tires can take although I hate to be pushy no the max. I see people going to 19.5 but do they have tires that exceed 4K. I don’t see any so my 20in may be just fine
The 19.5" Michelins on my Ram are rated for 4940# each. So close to 10,000# per axle. Since the rear axle weight on my truck is 3220# unloaded, the tires have 6700# available capacity. The Vision 19.5" wheels are rated for 4500# each, so 9000# rear axle wheel capacity. So 5780# available rear axle wheel capacity.
 
Ok, I have a nice AF 27-5L totally decked out for dry camping but camping sites getting increasingly difficult to plan for since I work and cant plan far enough out to snag one or just go dry completely. Kids in college now so thought is a nice slide in for my fly fishing weekends and trips with the wife.

I realize that the dry weight of slide ins is very deceptive and it is smart to add 1000lbs to them to decide what to go with. Since I have a 2017 3500 crew cab, 4wd, short bed I am thinking that the max dry wt I should consider and perhaps this is pushing it is 2500lbs for a total wt of 3500 if it is correct to plan on adding 1000lbs.

I have air bags and realize that doesn't increase carrying capacity. I also realize many are driving overloaded but I don't want to get a dually or long bed so I guess I am stuck. The AF 811SB is nice but it has a slide and loaded wt likely to be 4000lbs which seems to be too much for a SRW.

I was looking at the wolfcreek 850/890, the Lance 850, the northern lite 8-11 all seem to be in the dry wt range of 2300-2500.

Thoughts


FYI, The 2017 3500 SRW trucks did not come with upper overloads( but the 3500 DRWs did):mad:

In order to compensate for that, and to level my rig out I had to install aftermarket Hellwig helper springs. I didn't install airbags. I also use Torquelift lower stable loads

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have the HO Aisin 2017 3500. Keep the 5th wheel is interesting comment....you think I will regret getting rid of it?

Regret is your call. I can only point out some concerns specific to my use.

I thought I was doing good staying under 27' in total RV length. It's concerning to hear that size is getting hard to get spaces for. Popular parks out here like The Grand Canyon take reservations months in advance esp. if you want to stay a full week. Size makes a BIG difference as to what is available as smaller is more available days and sooner. Possible you would regret keeping it vs. getting a camper just over the ability to "use it".

I revisited Truck Campers this past spring considering a Northern Lite 10-2 EX and the weight numbers are close but maybe just out of reach. Future Delamanation on the AF, and most other brands, is a concern as a small spot and it's crack cost me a grand to fix. Larger spots can total an RV quick. So if I was to get another RV it will be fiberglass or a Tin Can. I first looked at slide in campers before getting the AF 27-5L, but, the pickup I had then wasn't rated high enough for what I wanted.

Generator: The NL - 9-6 would be a closer fit for me but they omit the built in generator option. :( Making coffee before getting dressed on gen power or stopping to nuke lunch is an "easy button" on a built in genset. I am not going to drag a set out and worry about it walking off.

You are going from ~25' to ~16' in the RV length.

Then there is "Where to put the Giant Newfoundland Dog?" I don't use all of the AF 27-5L I have as it's more storage than I need for a week out boondocking. (2003 year was 27' total length.) I do like the space when it's opened up.

Water tank size, well, I have used the larger tanks on the 5th wheel boondocking when I go out a week or more at a time. Esp. in AZ where water sources can be iffy and the National Park dump stations clogged up. I don't have to watch every pound, I keep the tailgate on, toss firewood in the bed, and the only downside is 5er being heavy on the grades here. You know how the AF will handle.

The useless dead weight couch/bed was replaced with a couple of recliners. Guests get an air mattress. Sit inside on a recliner and watch it rain. Well maybe...

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Couple times we enjoyed just being in the RV due to a day or two of rainy weather as part of a week long trip:

Navajo National Monument

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North Rim Grand Canyon. Rained on us, but, got some awesome pictures.

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Can you tell the difference the 500lb makes? Yes you can but it usually isn't a wow that is a major difference. I it more the smoothness of the ride. The extra 500 pounds makes the suspension work harder so the ride gets rougher. My 06 SRW had about the same ride between 2K and 3K in the bed but once you got above 3k you could feel the difference between full load of 40 gallon of water and food on the way to the camp site vs after dumping all the tanks and having ate all the food. Wasn't a major difference but you could feel when you were heavy.

As Tuesdak and I have both said. Take your truck to the CAT scale and get real weight numbers. Then you will know if you can get the camper you want or have to go down. The chart I have says your rear unloaded 3040 and GAWR is 7000 leaving you just under 4K to play with fully loaded so I would shoot for around 3700 for extra stuff like firewood. It is possible to go over the 7K GAWR by going up in tire size and getting better rims but you open yourself to some liability issues in case there is an accident. Out of the 4k part of it will be used by your passenger but the chart does include 300lb for all passengers combined.

As far as feeling the weight difference "off road" it really is more determined by the height of the camper than the difference in 500lb. Rail height basement models are taller and feel more tippy than well well height basement models because there overall height is higher and you have things like the AC on top. I never really noticed much difference in tippy between my Western Wilderness 12', Eagle Cap 950 and Northern Lite 10-2. The WW and EC were used on the 06 SRW and the EC and NL were used on the 18 DRW.

BTW: The reason I push the GAWR so hard is if you run over your tire rating for any length of time things like below happen. On the 06 I had run all the numbers so I was under tire rating then got a new trailer for my jeep. I didn't check the tongue weight with the new trailer so I didn't realize it had pushed me about 500lb over weight on the 4 year old BFG so I destroy two tires and fenders that weekend.
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That's why I have put 18" rims on my 3rd Gen last spring. Tires...
 
Here,here! My truck came with 20's and dumped them for the 18's. Much better ride....

I suggest the Firestone tires may have been part of it. I sure get a better ride on the 18" with Coopers vs. the 18" OEM TrashForce it came with. I was looking at suspension mods until I replaced the short-lived bald OEM tires.
 
I suggest the Firestone tires may have been part of it. I sure get a better ride on the 18" with Coopers vs. the 18" OEM TrashForce it came with. I was looking at suspension mods until I replaced the short-lived bald OEM tires.

I love my new ridge grapplers, after one season I can state they give great milage and great traction offroad, and as a bonus nearly indestructible.
 
I love my new ridge grapplers, after one season I can state they give great milage and great traction offroad,

When I put on 18s and Ridge Grapplers 4y ago I changed the offset from +42 to +19 to get the stance right (about and inch outward but rim and tire were wider so mathematically only about 1/2" ; Put on 18x9 wheels and 275/70/18 ridge grapplers ) I never had any issues with that setup and the tires were dead even with the fender flares on the truck so no mud down the sides.
 
Neither did the 20'... I dont miss them tho, I installed a set of Firestone air bags which are way better IMHO, but I tow a 5er.
IMHO using air bags alone with a slide in camper , causes the truck to sway and roll too much , like suspended on balloons
 
That's a superb combo for our trucks. I have some 285-75-17 Toyo AT111's. I wish I'd spent a dab more and went with the Method NVHD wheels and tires. That's a really nice combo Oz!!

Thank you Sir, I did research for almost an eternity to find the right wheel for my needs. There is way more involved then one thinks the first moment.

Only thing I wanted to have is hub centered and they are not, i had to fabricate some adaptation rings in the lathe. Downside of that is no hub cover will fit anymore, but i can live with that as I think the axle hubs are pretty cool.
 
If you’re using airbags to elevate the load then you’re doing it wrong.

The stock suspension needs to squat and carry most the load. The airbags just keep it from squatting too far and this will also help with sway and load control.

There is a reason the OEM airbags let the truck squat in ALT ride height.
 
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Does anyone know what the actual carrying/weight rating is on the 2017 3500 20 inch rims. Going to pick up AF811sb so will be heavy but nice this next week. My tires are rated just over 4K. I see the rims something like 3500-3700. I will be considering going to 19.5 with 4000 plus tires for stability, better wear I think and slightly better weight capacity but I think a lot of the 19.5 tires are rated about 4000 so the real improvement may be tread compound, durability and the rims having perhaps 500lbs more capacity which I guess is significant
 
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