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Pramature Ring & Pinion Failure?

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Just an opinion here, I'm a computer geek, not an expert. The gear train is primarily designed for forward travel. If ther is a design trade off it would be in the reverse direction, or braking. There could be adverse stress or heat build up, especially after some wear sets in.

I would aslo ask the same question regarding the universal joints. They probably get loose before anything else.

Unless I really need more, not just to say I have an EB, I think that brake shoes and pads are the cheapest replacable component.
 
I wouldn't think it would cause early failure of the ring and pinion. But possibly (more likley) clutch and U-joints and definitly the torq-converter on the automatics. Those would be the weakest link IMO.
 
There are only one of me and my wife. There are plenty of U joints and ring gear and pinion sets. When I come off a pass in Colo. with a 12,000# 5th behind me, the peace of mind my Ebrake gives is not even in the realm of dollars and cents.

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2001 2500 QC, ETH/DEE,4:10s, LSD, EZ with elbow(26. 5PSI)Stage 1 injectors from Carl, Boost/Pyro Guages, 4" Turbo back, BD Brake,Mag-Hytec Cover, Kleen Wheels, Energy Release, 70 gal. fuel, 20K Reese. 31,000 Miles on 03/01/01(Auto/Truck/RV Dealer)
 
I have never heard of that Doc, but it would have to have some wear in the different direction. Maybe it evens it out.

I would avoid 5th to 1st at 75MPH and not worry about it.
Gene
 
Doc,
In the world of semi's using a Jake Brake all the time, the only noticable wear anywhere in the drivetrain is the thrust washers/plates/rings (take your pick) on the rear main bearing. This "washer" keeps the crank from moving forward or backward. Generally, even though there is wear noted, it's not enough to worry or even think about.
Just my . 2 cents worth.

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97 2500, extcab, 4x4. BFG 285/85/16 AT, "warmed over" pump, JRE Stage III plate, AFC spring kit, BD gov. spring seats only, 370 injectors, K&N, 4" Edwards Exhaust with Dynomax straight through racing muffler & 5"tip, (Cat got "lost"), EGT, boost, oil & transmission temp. gages, Low Stall torque conv. & BD valve body, silencer ring "exiled", Grover Emergency air horn and a multitude of strobe lights and switches (Vol. firefighter)
 
Doc, Wear is caused by many things, i. e. , heat, dirty oil, lack of oil, drive techniques just to mention a few. The ring and pinion by nature of design are very strong and can withstand a tremendous load in both directions. If you are easy on the clutch during your down shifts and do preventive maintenance, I can't see where you should have a problem much sooner then 4 to 5 hundred thousand miles.

I would sooner save my dollars for top notch universal joints before I would worry much about replacing a third member. Exhaust brake included.
Dave
 
Not if you use a good lube and change it. The Dana 70/80 diff is huge and it's there to be used for towing. The Dana axles are 2nd after the Cummins in my choosing Dodge over the others.

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
 
Excellent and correct advice in the postings above. All I can add to this discussion is use a synthetic gear lubricant, and enjoy the ride.
 
Doc:
Don't know for sure as I use a US Gear de-celerator on a 5 speed. When I changed my diff. lube, I had no filings on the magnet in the rear end case. I have used the EB since 124,000 miles and now have 193,000. When I changed lube I did not even see the wear marks that the book says I should have. I use the EB all the time, empty or loaded. If there is premature wear I did not see it.
My observations.
Preston

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96 3500, Black SLT, 5 speed, turbo diesel, , with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , Mag-hytec rear cover, dual-remote by-pass filters, and Roadmaster Active system, AutoMeter Pyro & boost, Primeloc
 
Dont think it matters one bit, On my volkswagen sand car, I converted it over to mid engine, to do this, you flip the ring gear over to the other side of the carrier. so now the motor sits in front of the trans (essentially, the diff lives in reverse from stock orientation) It gets hammered on all the time, and can not see any more wear than in a rear engine set up Phil

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2001 ETH DEE 4X4 QC LB On order, supposedly built 2-23-01, we'll see when she gets here
 
I don't think it makes any diffference Doc, Even with the BD brake, we don't have much more braking power then the gas version, and they don't wear out either.

Originally posted by Doc Tinker:
Will using engine braking (downshifting and exhaust brake) cause premature ring and pinion failure?
 
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