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Pre lubedo they really

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Dimler

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I’m considering a pre lube system or my 2017 6.7 engine. Anyone have experience with them
and do they really reduce the wear when starting the engine?
 
of course they really work but since the engine in your truck will last 400,000 miles or more just doing it the old fashioned way and not worrying about it, the real question is "Why Bother"?
 
Once when starting a gas SUV V6 engine that had been sitting 2 weeks or more while I was on vacation, the entire vehicle shuddered violently on it's first start until the oil pressure got up to operating pressure. I never had that happen again with that vehicle or other vehicles. I think just running it regularly (at least once a week) and using a quality oil is adequate.
 
I spent 40 years at Caterpillar design vehicles. For the most part none of these machines had or offered PRE-Lube packages on the engines. Now that is not to say that some Large Mining Machines or road equipment was not shipped with a Pre-Lube package on them. These were custom ordered packages that we sold only because the customer required this package when purchasing the tractor. The engine design/marketing team did not feel that the ROI was worth this to improve the engine life but we sold them when the customer demanded this option.
 
I have one but that's because truck often sits for months at a time. The cars that get driven regularly don't have one.
 
I know at least 6 people that have driven Cummins/Ram trucks over 1 million miles in stock or near stock config with no pre oil and they are still going strong!! Why do the pro oil hassle?? I understand the concept and if I were in a very cold climate, I might consider it but the engine heater takes care of that issue.
gtwitch in wyoming
 
I bought one for my 95 but after considering the added risk of leaks in the pump and lines, I didn't install it and returned it. One of the SAE test is how well oil sticks to the cylinder walls etc... The new oils are way superior to the old ones at doing this.

An alternative that Cummins recommended to me (and I did this) was to put a switch under the dash to kill the power to the injector pump solenoid. Then you can crank it until you get oil pressure. It's harder on your starter and battery but it's easier on the engine since you don't have the high bearing load etc... of a running engine. Cummins used to say if you haven't run your engine in 30 days, pull the wire to the injector and crank it till you get pressure. The switch just makes it easier. Of course this was 1995, God only knows the codes you'd get doing that now a days.
 
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