Pre-luber

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I would love to have a preluber on my beloved engine. I looked at a Northern Tool & Equipment catalog and found a pump that looked like it would work. It was item nunber #2687-C146. I called them and they told me the specs definetly said it was not for motor oil. They could not tell me what would work. My question is, where can I get a pump, and where would I plumb it into the engine? Would it be worth the trouble? I think this could save some wear and tear for our engines, especially since everbody says most of your wear is incurred at startup. Any ideas? I want the expert 12V answers #ad



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Jason Case
'95 2500 4x4 Auto Reg Cab
BD torque converter and valvebody, #5 fuel plate, BD 4" exhaust turbo back, K&N RE-0880,transmission temp boost and egt gauges.
Pressure Lock on order

'99 KTM 300 EXC

[This message has been edited by sixkill (edited 06-14-2000). ]

 

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I've worked with diesel engines for 30 years and have never seen a preluber,although they may be out there. I think what is most important is to keep that oil warm so that it pumps up right away. I plug my block heater in year round,have it wired thru a line voltage thermostat set to go on below 50 degrees. I've never had the to wait to start lamp come on even at 25 below zero!There are also oil additives out there that basicly make your oil stickier,so that your upper end stays lubed,STP,Power Punch&Marvel Mystery Oil come to mind. If you want a pump though, WW Granger has lots,I recomend a gear pump. IMHO

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95' 25004X4,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,30,000 GVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 06-15-2000). ]

 

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A synthetic oil would do it as well. Part of the benefit is that it sticks to everything better and doesn't run off the parts as fast. Check my sig.

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'94 3500 4x4, 196,000 miles, Auto w/shift kit,3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

 

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I have a LRI preluber on my 94 5 speed and I got it thru Summit Racing. About $450. 00. It makes 40 psi and I love the fact I NEVER dry start. We will see if it makes any difference in engine life. I will drive this truck until the thing dies as I cannot afford another.

 

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The following comment is intended to invite a serious, perhaps overdue discussion on "pre-lubers".

Let me put it this way: Would someone please explain why a "pre-luber" is not a complete and utter waste of time and money? TDR members with a background in lubrication please comment.

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'94 SLT 2WD, 5 Spd. , TST #6(250/635), 215 HP Injectors, 3. 54, Synthetics, By-Pass Filtration, EGT & Boost Gauges, Psychotty Air System, BD Exhaust Brake, Horton Fan, Full Tilt 4" Exhaust, Prime-Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Homeless Cat, Air Lifts, Rancho RS9000's, PIAA's, 255x85Rx16's and copious amounts of 12v Pride. Full on NRA foe.

 

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I think I remember from posts some months ago that failures in the hose connections involved with the preluber have destroyed some engines. I don't think it's possible to "dry" start an engine unless it's sat for many days without running. Every engine I've ever taken apart has been an oily mess, certainly not dry. Big waste of money to endanger your engine as far as I can tell.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Joe G.

With the proper fittings and hose material there is no danger of loosing oil and damaging any engine. Proof is on your engine and mine…... . the turbocharger is externally oiled.

As far as prelubing in general I think it is money well spent. All I have read (a bunch) leads me to believe that a very high portion of engine ware is at cold start up. I would like my engine to go many miles and prelubing (IMHO) stacks the cards in my favor.

 

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The thing that holds me back from obtaining a pre-luber is the fact that it appears to me that the pre-luber takes UNFILTERED oil from the pan and sends it throughout the engine. IMHO this is worse than a few seconds of running with no oil pressure at startup.

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1996 Dodge 2500 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , 4X4, JRE 4" exhaust (somebody stole my kitty and my muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Combo Gauge, K&N Filter, Brite-Box, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights. Prime-Loc and Rancho 9000 shocks coming soon!

 

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Does anyone on this forum with a high milage rig use a preluber? I can't help but think they are a dangerous waste of money. Are you guys with a LOT of miles using one?

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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This is really an accessories thread.

It has been moved over to "Products / Accessories.

Thanks guys!

Mark

 

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Radixr… I had the same thoughts on taking oil from the BOTTOM of the pan, so I set mine up to pump thru a remote mounted filter (PH-8A Fram).

I think this is a good topic, and I know what my opinion is (as dose all who are following this post). My back ground is in machine maintenance (high speed automation, aircraft, automotive ect. ) and as far I can find out, more lubrication is not a bad thing. It may be unnecessary for longevity (the latest TDR has an article on a truck with close to a million miles on) no pre luber. But, you know my . 02$ is PRELUBE IT.
Any high mileage users or engine lubrication specialists, I would like to hear what say you.

Andrew VanHoosen

 

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BlownRat,
I'm inclined to agree that with an inline filter and GOOD lines it can't do any harm. You might want to check out minimopar. simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html. There is an interesting visual examination of the leading oil filter brands.
I worked at an import car shop a number of years ago, had a nutty psychiatrist customer that wanted to put a pre-luber on everything he owned. It started with the Maserati Bi-Turbo (sounds like an alternative lifestyle, doesn't it? #ad
) so that in addition to pre-lubing it would run the pump at shutdown for post-lube also. At the time I thought that he was getting into the prescription drug cabinet, since in my experience the rings, valves and valve guides usually are what causes the engine to be torn down. THEN when it is apart you go ahead and do the bearings and bearing journals. He was insistant, though and we put one on his Triumph TR8 sports car, too. The closest thing to normal that he owned was a Hornet station wagon, I think he was just too cheap to put one on that.
Anyway, unless the Cummins wears it's pressure fed bearings out before the splash lubed parts I don't think the pre-luber will be of much help. As I said, I don't think it will hurt as long as the oil stays in the engine. I'd agree that plugging in when it's cold is helpful.

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2000 F250 Reg Cab 2wd under-valved (16) PSD 6spd. (I know, I made a mistake) Like a challenge? Try IPSC Shooting. Check out http://www.uspsa.org

 

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Jmbrowning,

Thanks a bunch for the link to the oil filter “study”. Very informative and interesting reading. I think I will be changing filters shortly on the preluber system. Sounds to me like the (old standard PH-8A) will be sidelined in favor of a synthetic filter of some type.

Again thanks for the tip.
Andy VanHoosen


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94’ 3500 Dually 2WD, 5 speed, 3. 54 rear, RedLine oil in the Trans and rear, Premium blue in the Eng. two Optma red top batts, custom skid plate under oil pan and trans. , Preluber plumbed thru a PH-8A filter and into the oil pressure port, custom frame mounted front camper tie downs, custom hidden receiver hitch behind a factory roll pan, custom rear camper bumper/tie down, Onan 4KW genset where the spare tire was (Tig welded Alu. fuel tank for gen. outboard of frame on left side behind cab) Rancho RS9000 shocks, K&N filter, AutoMeter Pro-comp Ultra lite gauges: EGT (thermocouple in the manifold), boost (0-35psi), intake charge temp. (thermocouple in the manifold adjacent cyl #5) in a 3 gauge pillar mount, custom Tig welded all 304 SS. mandrel bent 4” exhaust (lost the cat/muff). Or. licence plate “RUMBLE” Much more in the future. My son Cole’s first 5 word sentence “Daddy’s truck smokes start up”. The boy likes trucks!

8-71 Blown, 489ci Big Block Chevy, T400 and a C-500 V-Box in a 21’ DayCruser. (750HP@ 5500rpm and 810 pound feet @ 3900rpm)……Hence the user name.

 

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I'll try to be brief here because I've got responses to a few of these posts (no dings intended, just being trying to be brief).

High mileage trucks don't necessarily mean pre-lubers don't help. In fact, they almost support the idea of a pre-luber being of some benefit. Reasons? High-mileage trucks, on average, run more miles between startups - supporting the idea that startup wears more than running (I know that's not scientific, but think about it).

Drawing the oil from the bottom of the pan doesn't seem any different than your engine oil pump to me. That's where it gets the oil. However, not filtering the oil before pushing it up to the engine is an issue to me. That's why my pre-luber draws from the pan and then pushes the oil through the filter (just like the engine oil pump does). I'm using a Racor remote-mount filter so a couple check valves and a tee is all I needed to plumb it in.

I don't think it's a good idea to draw the oil up through these external filter lines for two reasons: (1) your actually drawing it through the engine oil pump and I don't know how it would like that. (2) I can't see a way to plumb this without having the oil being pushed through the pre-luber pump while the engine is running. I don't know if the pre-luber pump would like that either.

Those who posted about which parts wear out first have a good point. If I overhall because my rings are leaking too much, would I really put it back together without replacing the pressure lubed parts? I doubt it. That's why I probably wouldn't have bought a pre-luber unless I got such a good deal on it.

Lastly -- and this is what tipped the scales for me -- I've spoken to a few techs at the oil analysis companies. They all agree that there is a big difference in the oil they get from engines with pre-lubers. Much lower wear metal readings.

So, the jury is still out I guess. I like the idea and have excellent custom made, steel braided, teflon lined hoses to / from my oil filters and pre-luber.

Any input would be appreciated???????

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1999 24V, NV4500HD, QC, 4x4, 3. 54, 8' Bed w/ Rhino Lining, 285/75R16s on 16x8 Eagles, Glasstite high topper

[This message has been edited by Kyle (edited 06-21-2000). ]

 

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I've thought about putting a preluber on my dad's truck but decided not to when I found out how much they cost. I don't see how a preluber would hurt any if plumed corectly using high quality lines.

Does anyone have experince with oil accumulators I'm wondering about puttin one on my brothers truck to oil the turbo after engine shutdown.

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I maintain a 1ton quad cab daully truck driven like a sports car.
2001 3500 qc 6sp Cummins
The silencer ring just fell out I swear