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Prefilling the oil filter

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clutch on 6 speed is STUCK ! -- HELP !!

Clutch Slipping

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I always do it, but I got to thinking that on none of my other tractors, trucks and cars, gas & diesel is this possible. On most the filter installs sideways, on my John Deere diesel tractors it is upside down and the filter will drain every time the engine is shut down. Most have a filter just as large as the Cummins. I checked my Dodge owners and service manuals, they say only to lube the gasket. Just how important is it, did a wife's tale get started here? Seems like there should be enough residual oil in the engine to avoid damage on start-up. #ad


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'95 2500 4X4, AT, Driftwood, Banks Stinger, Warn fender flairs and running boards (work truck)
'95 3500, 5 speed, 3:54, BD E-brake, Driftwood, Banks & Psycotty, 34,000 GCW apple and tractor hauler (works harder truck)
 
It's always good to do, if possible. The filter on my 3. 1 GM points down and I fill it. The oil hangs on to parts but it's still better to have pressure ASAP. One of the most important properties of a turbo oil is to not run off and leave parts dry. Start up is the hardest on them(and shutting down too hot)! Craig
 
I have a Cummins Engine manual issued by Cummins, not Dodge. This procedure is for the 5. 9 engine. It says to fill the oil filter AND unplug the fuel solenoid or wire a toggle switch into the solenoid so that it can be shut off. Then you turn over the motor with the starter until you get some oil pressure. This usually takes about 20 seconds. Then you enable the solenoid again and start normally. It also says in the manual to follow this procedure if the engine has not been run for more than 30 days. I have followed these instructions since my truck was new. Overkill? I don't know, I baby this thing... .
 
On my CJ-7 with AMC 304 V8 the filter is horizontal - I fill the filter enough to let the oil soak into the media & then install it. I don't overfill it so that there is any 'free' oil in the filter. Maybe this is the reason an oil change takes me all day? #ad


Brian
 
Dieselnerd,

That's exactly the way I change my oil. I have a switch on my switch panel that shuts of the fuel solenoid. I crank it until I get oil pressure when I change it or it has sat for several days. That doesn't happen often with my truck, it's pretty busy.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
After being a lube tech for caterpillar for 13 years, when ever possible, fill them. The majority of wear is usually at start up. The quicker you can get up to pressure, the better off you are. however my truck seems to take a loooooong time to get it up. And thats not with an oil change. Just regular start up. Things that make you go hhhmmmmmm.
RRR

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1996 3500 diesel 5 speed 2wd BONE STOCK 20 mpg
 
Ultimate solution would be the aux oil pump system that brings oil pressure up prior to hitting the starter. Great feature if you've got the money, but could be just another part waiting to fail at the wrong time. If filling the new filter gets the pressure up to spec a second or two earlier, it seems to be worth the trouble.

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White 2001 2500 SLT+, 4x4 ETH, 6 speed.
 
There have been posts here about changing the oil after the truck has sat all night so that the oil level in the filter is lower, and therefor less mess. According to the discussion on this tread, it seems that that may not be a very good idea, since more of the oil throughout the engine will flow into the pan, providing less lubrication after the oil change. Any feedback on this?

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Ken Lenger
2001. 5 2500 QC 4X4 SWB SLT, ETC/DDX 5 Speed, 3. 54 (no LSD), camper group, trailer folding mirrors, RBR CD/Radio, LT265/75R16E AT OWL tires, trailer tow group, Patroit Blue / Agate, Westin CPS Step Bars, Jordan Utlima Brake Controller, Weather_Guard 664 tool box
Trailite 21' Travel Trailer, ~4000 lbs loaded.
 
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It has been a long known practice to whenever possible, fill the filter with oil and if you cant fill it, at least get the media inside soaked so it will allow full flow as soon as possible. The Cummins manual has a good idea in disabling the fuel pump for 20 seconds. It is a proven fact that over 80% of engine wear is done at startup.

Prelube pumps are a great idea, although expensive. If you plan on keeping your truck for a LONG time, they are a good investment. Otherwise i dont see why with normal oil changes using good quality oil you should not see well over 200k miles on your ISB with no problems. The best versions i have seen have a pickup in the pan then to a small filter, then to a main pressure port in the block. This way your engine is pre lubed with clean oil. Another nice feature is the pre lube pumps that have a timer that will run the pump for 5 or 10 minutes AFTER shutdown to supply cooling oil to the Turbo Bearings. They have similar systems on our Locomotives that will run an electric pump for 30 minutes after shutdown to cool the turbo. That is overkill for us, mainly because our turbos cost $1,000 versus $85,000 for a turbo in a Locomotive.
Another nice thingt is nice in that we dont have to wait for the EGT's to reach 300Degrees before shutdown when you have the pump that turns on after shutdown to cool the turbo . However, you DONT want to have a pump pumping oil throughout your engine while it is shutdown for any longer then about 10 minutes because pressurised oil flowing around bearings that are not turning can lead to grooves forming and it will actually INCREASE engine wear.
As far as worrying about the pump possibly being a cause for trouble that may get you stuck somewhere, not to worry. If you do have the Prelube pump installed correctly where it is drawing oil from the pan and the inlet to the engine has a check valve so that when the engine is running, pressurised oil is not flowing back towards the pump, there is nothing to worry about as far as the pump failing, Since the pump and related lines will have no pressure in them while the engine is runing. Most systems i have seen are activated when you turn the ignition key to on and shutoff when the key moves to the Start position (Via a relay from the fuel pump. ) Usually 20 seconds is plenty prior to starting.
Like i said, nice investent if you have the money and TIME since they are a bit invloved to install correctly.
As far as when changing oil in the Ram to let it sit overnight so the filter has time to drain, you really only need about 45 minutes to an hour as long as the engine was at operating tempature. I have changed my oil 6 times so far and the only time the filter did not drain is when i took it off when the engine was still cold. As long as the oil is hot, it is thin enough where it siphons out of the filter pretty quick. Otherwise like i said, about an hour is plenty.

Lastly, a topic that was covered in another TDR thread is the issue of what appears to be a long time (3-5 seconds) before the oil pressure comes up on the gauge after starting. That is actually a false reading. If you watch the Check Engine light, when it goes out, the oil pressure gauge will move. The ECM is doing a self test and wont turn the Gauges on untill it completes the quick test. I had a mechanical gauge on my Amsoil setup and i confirmed that oil pressure comes up ALOT sooner then it appears, about 1 second.
 
WOW, thats alot of information. I just changed my oil today. I let it drain over night as I switched over to synthetic. I then filled my filter with the new oil and installed same. 40K and so far no worries!!
 
I thought I read the the properly valved engines needed to wait for at least 2 hours before draining the oil, so the oil in the pump has time to drain. The pump holds about 2 qts. The engines with too many values do not need this.

I let mine drain over night. When I remove the filter the oil has siphened down about 1/2 inch or so. Dont spill a drop this way.

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1997 2500 4x4, CC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, 69K, Everything inc Leather, K&N, 4" BD exhaust, 230/605 plate, pump tuned by Piers, Isspro Gauges(3), 285/75/16 on Alcola's, RS9000's, Molded Side Steps w/ Ground Effects, Chrome Trim, Canopy, ProFlaps F&R, BedLiner, Aux. Lighting F&R, and tons more.
 
The manual for my 504 CI Case diesel says to spin the starter over about 30 seconds when cold with the manual selenoid out so it can't start. This is supposed to pump enough oil through it to avoid damager. The oil filter on this engine is mounted upside down.
 
Ram owners:
I think the reason for filling Filter after oil change is to insure the turbo gets oil
immediately. I don,t think the turbo will get
any oil untill the filter is full.

My two cent,s
JimP

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I read an article about fighter engine from WW2 having engine failures after changing the oil the first time. I think it was the Merlin engine used in the Spitfires and Mustangs. The problem wasn't the lack of oil but all the air in the empty filter that pushed the oil the bearing had in them out. I teach my students to when ever possible to fill the filter before installing it.
 
The only way for a oil change to be done correctly is to allow the engine to sit a least 2 hours so the pump can drain and all the contaminated oil is removed,,I myself do mine early in the morning when I arise so all the old oil is removed and fresh can be installed,,Now I also realize that in some instances guys like to change when the oil has some heat in it,so this is where the 2 hrs comes in,it allows the pump to drain and your old oil is removed,,The filter filling is to prevent the chance of the bearings not seeing any oil thus eliminating the chance for any scarring of the bearings or cavitating of the oil system,,The best way for longevity in our beloved Rams is a preluber,although a little pricey,and they are proven to work,,We at work, in our larger Cummins motors at work have been doing extensive research for Cummins and Havoline on these systems and they have seen the benefits produce results,,We are testing two different systems,one is a standard pre-luber where before you start the rig you depress a button and after the light goes out it may be started and the other is a newer design oil starter,where you turn key on and engine pre-lubes itself and when oil pressure hits a pre-set number(30 psi)it will then activate the starter,,Both systems have a shutdown solenoid that will not allow the truck to be shut off for three minutes of being switched off to allow turbo cool down,,These systems have allow the M11's in these trucks to run longer than expected without a major overhaul,,Mine currently is now over the Million mile mark and has not had the pan down for anything other than normal problems(oil leak),,So fill the filter,its the only way to treat your baby right and make her live... .

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98, Flame Red, Quad Cab, 2500, 4x4, 5spd, Autometer and Cyberdyne gauges,Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks,TST#10 plate,16cm housing, B-D Exhaust Brake,Timing Advanced,K&N,Totally Amsoiled,Cat Muffler and Silencer ring ALL M. I. A. ,A BOMBING IN THE PROCESS!!
 
I was browsing in my owners manual last pm. I came across the place where it said to fill oil filter before instaling. I try to at least put 3/4 of a quart or more. Makes it easier and don't spill any.

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2001 quadcab slt 2500 HO 6spd. LWB,2wd,dk garnett red, trailer tow package,camper special, lock-right locker, 3. 54 gears,ez edge, speed liner,oversized stainless steel chicken slide,66 gallon in bed aux. tank,K&N air filter,Reese 20k hitch, Terry 2000 EX 30ft. double slide 5er, 2000 20ft gooseneck for haulin jeep, firewood and huntin stuff. 5X12 tagalong for haulin the 4 wheeler. Okie Newton
 
fyi... the item about waiting 2 hours for the pump to drain is for the 12 valve trucks... our "highly advanced" #ad
24 valve trucks use fuel to cool the injector pump.

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'01 Eth 3500 4x4, Amsoil air filter, AutoMeter boost & egt on pillar mount. See My Truck and also be sure to read What tools & methods to use for an easy 1st oil change!!!
"Be happy you don't get all the government you pay for. " -W. C. Fields
 
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