2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Preserving Front Axle seals?

[SDrake]

I will have to change my front U-joints shortly, they are flopping. I have learned proceedures on this site except for how to preserve the front axle seals. Do the 11 year old seals stand a chance of surviving the proceedure?



When removing the axles and then reinstalling them what do I need to be aware of as far as how to not tear up the old seals. I do not know where they are, just that somewhere the axle has to pass through them and it seems like putting the axle back in would require some sort of manuever to protect the seals. It was probably mentioned in the posts I read but I was more focused on the u-joints and the hub removal at the time.



Thanks

 

[nps]

The seals are located inside the diff housing on the drivers side, and on the outboard side of the CAD housing on the pass side.



Preserving them means not nicking or distorting the seal face with the splines on the axle shaft during disassembly or reassembly. Goes for old seals or new. Someone helping during the insertion of the axle - one outside pushing the axle in and another on the inside guiding the splines past the seal face is the best bet.



While you have the axles out, I'd R&R those 11 year old seals with some new ones. Yeah, you have to drop the carrier for the driver's side, but you are already 90% of the way there with what you are doing.

 

[Willys]

Just be careful, you might want to make sure a local parts house has them in stock just in case. I've had mine in and out a few times changing u-joints, balljoints and hubs.

 

[CJ Lagos]

Make sure to clean out the axle tubes before putting the shafts back in as they can be filled with dirt and grime. It is common to push this crap into the seal when re-installing the shafts. Clean the splines and put some gear oil on them. As you put the shaft back in try to keep the splined end from dragging on the axle tube.



Inpsect the seal surface on the shaft itself - it SHOULD be polished . Use emory cloth to lightly clean if needed.

 

[SDrake]

Question to NPS. I saw someone change joints one day and he simply stuck the shaft into the tube and gently shoved it home. Got me to thinking that there must be some kind of guidance inside the tube but maybe it was just an experienced guy who had the feel for it. Then again he may have destroyed the seals for all I know. Any way I knew that I needed to know what I was doing before I tried it.



My question. You mention someone on the inside guiding the shaft into the seal. Are you talking about the differential cover off with someone going through there to guide it in? Can you see the seals with the cover off?

 

[nps]

My question. You mention someone on the inside guiding the shaft into the seal. Are you talking about the differential cover off with someone going through there to guide it in? Can you see the seals with the cover off?

Yes - and yes. Assuming you change the seals, you'll have the diff cover off (for the driver's side) and the CAD cover off (for the pass side). You can see the seals, and someone could guide the splines through the seal face.



The spline diameter is smaller than the seal surface diameter on the axle shaft. Therefore a gap is available between the sharp spline points and the seal face when reassembling. What destroys the seal is when the axle shaft is cocked and the splines catch on, or drag over, the seal face.



You can be careful without opening anything up and insert them real slow -ensuring you keep the spline end centered in the tube (even though you can't see it). Worst case - if you mess one up you are pulling the hubs again. Should be easier to get off the second time round.

 

[6btsmoker]

after cleaning out the tube,i just use a pry bar to keep the x centered as i push it into the housing. i also put stp on the x splines and seal area to help lessen seal damage. nothing worse than that gear oil smell letting you know the seal needs to be replaced.

 

[SDrake]

Thanks nps and bakerjohn. Makes sense. I was uneasy poking along on my own until I hear the voice of experience on this.



BTW how long have I got running around with my u-joints having slop in them assuming I don't pur er in 4WD. These are the original joints. They do not yet have much radial slop but you can move the shaft back and forth along the axises of the joint. I just noticed mine while changing the oil about 1000 miles ago. What is the end game on this; sudden catrosphic failure or some kind of clunking noises that give adequate warning for making the run home?

 

[nps]

Increased clunking and grinding noises, especially while turning, unless you have it in 4WD. Then it might snap on ya and cause a bit'o grief.

 

[SDrake]

That gives me use of my truck for a few weeks until i can take the time to fix it. Thanks BTW I really like how my truck drives with the GSK3 kit and the new tripple clutch converter with the lower stall speed. All the power seems to be getting to the road. It is a fantastic improvement in drivability.

 

[TRCM]

yes, to replace the seals you will have to remove the gears and carrier, and that will require settign them back up.



The inner seals them selves have a 'ramp' of sorts to help guide the shaft into the seal. Just be careful.



I have always made sure the splines are smooth with no sharp edges to nick the seal, and I coat the splines with grease before I slide them in.



if you have an open diff inthe front, you can remove the spider gears & pin and you MAY be able to stick a finger in far enough to guide the axle thru the seal, but you'd have to have long fingers. This is for the drivers side only tho.



And if it was me, and I was going that far into it, I'd replace the balljoints NOW, so you don't have to go back into it to do them later. if you don't kil the seals now, you probably will whenyou do the ball joints.

 

[SDrake]

Thanks for the description of the accessibility of the seals. I put moog greasable ball joints in at 60K miles. They must have been loose a long time because I first noticed them bad by noticing my wheels were spread out at the bottom very pronounced, looked like an overloaded trailer axle. Jacked the truck to check them and they were really loose. The moog greasable joints are still tight as new at 235K miles. But for sure I will double check them again when I do the u-Joints and seals. I originally started this post to sound out the advisability of trying to preserve the old seals. Now I think I want to take a good look at them and make a final decision when I am in there. Nice thought to have a fron axle with new seals, greasable ball joints and new greasable u-joints. I may push this truck to 500K miles.