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Pressure, Torq, or Auto Loc which one?

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Installing a different type of mystery switch

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I need to figure which one would work for my needs. I have a BD exhaust break w/auto and the transmission needs some extra holding power to keep the TC engauged. I'm empty 90% of the time and just need some extra slowing capacity. I plan to add a DTT TC/VB later on but for now which one would better suit my needs. Pros and cons for all the above. Thanks in advance.

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98. 5 3500 SLT Quad Dually 4x4. 3:54 Auto, Waterfall Blk on red. Custom dually flaps, All acc's w/leather
BD exhaust brake, dash mount Banks guages, Mag-Hytec Diff. cover & trans. , SS bug screen and fender trim,SS Stull diamond line running boards, SS 4" turn down.
 
pressure loc along with a replacement BD valvebody , you don't want to use the pressure loc with a stock valve body i believe . auto loc or torque loc , auto loc is what you should have to hold the tc loc while using the engine brake , torque loc is same as auto loc except it also gives you feature of locking the TC manually , which i have heard is not a good idea .

i'll let the pros jump in , but if you plan of doing DTT trans modes , buying the other stuff you ask about will be a waste of money as they are not needed with DTT products which will (should/does???) incorporate all those same functions with a couple of add ons devices.

you do need some type of TC lock device though ,but using it without the other compoments could cause damage to your TC .
 
Well I had a '97 2500 4x4 and put over $8000 in upgrades including Banks, Rancho Lifts, wheels and 35" BFG Mudders. Out of all the money spent, I think I got the most bang out of the BD Valve Body. It's an awsome product. Because it raises the transmission line presure, shifts are down right snappy. Because there is much less slipping, you get lower temps and longer transmission life. It is really important to get the power to the wheels where it can do some good and not to the transmission plates where it will do some harm. All I can say is "Try it, you'll like it"
 
Justbeamn,

Here is something you should consider before you proceed. DTT vb's do not require the additional aid of a pressure loc.

The torque loc, in my personal opinion is the most damaging component ever sold to the
Dodge ram owners. This product WILL CAUSE DAMAGE to the torque converter and the automatic transmission.

Any device that forces a TC to stay locked up under hard excelleration or heavy throttle WILL DAMAGE YOUR transmission and tc.

Now obviously the vendor also realizes this , as they also suggest an unlock switch to de-activate the torqe loc?

This makes me wonder , why sell it in the first place?

Bill Kondolay
Diesel Transmission Technology
 
question on the lockup under WOT? what would the difference between locking up a truck with 500 lbs full throttle at 2000 rpm and running a truck with 555 lbs at 90% throttle (TC wouldn't unlock at 90% throttle) both situations would be providing 500 lbs to the TC. Basicly how muck torque can the lockup clutch lining can your TC hold at a given RPM. thank you
 
mike , the stock clutch lining can barely handle the stock torque of the cummins , the closer to the magic but unobtainable 100% effiecency the less the clutch will have to slip when engaging , just like a ram with a stick when you shift thru the gears , there is a bit of slippage during clutch engagement . also , 2000 rpm you are at alot less than 90% throttle . i would assume that 90% on a 24V is probaly closer to 3000 rpm , at that point your on the downside of torque curve and it don't hurt the clucth as much as it does when your at and around peak torque .

and that looks like part of the lockup clutch ... the part that slips onto the trans input shaft . looks just like a hub for a manual trans clutch , the springs help dampen the engagemnet shock ???

[This message has been edited by Mopar-muscle (edited 02-08-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by Mopar-muscle (edited 02-08-2001). ]
 
I have had the BD torquelok/Autolok for at least two years and have been very satisfied. Any body that drives a Diesel with extra horsepower should realize that you have to observe certain precautions.
BD does stand behind their products and you get a lot of free information along with them. There is always a measure of failures while developing new products. Bill may have hit upon a better Torque converter, but in the long run and the bigger picture, I think you make out better with Piers and the BD gang. I'm not blasting Bill or BD but I have invested a lot of money and I'm getting tired of the Pi$$ing contest! Pobodys nerfect.

Waterpete
 
Justbeamn, to answer your question, you need to add the Auto loc, this will provide you with the braking power you are looking for with the BD exhaust brake, and will provide you with years of trouble free service.

Funny how all these questions get side tracked

Ted Jannetty

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Ted Jannetty, Owner President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises, Inc.
97 3500 4x4 club cab 5spd. RED, JRE custom power kit, JRE 4" exhaust
JRE 1/2 inch fuel system, Bosch 300 hp injectors, Prime loc,
Cummins chrome kit, US Gear 20% over drive, 3. 54 posi, Autometer
Ultralite 50lb. boost, and Pyrometer, BD exhaust brake.
Horton fan clutch

99 Ski-Doo 800 Formula III Pipes, reeds, studs and clutching 172 hp
99 Honda Forman 450 ES jet kit, pipe, lift kit, 27" Mud Runners
2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 800 X stock for now 140 hp
2000 TransAm Ram Air WS6 Flowmaster, K&N, Granatelli Mass air meter, LS1 Lid 370 hp
1973 Camaro Rally Sport Street Strip 850+ HP
 
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