I use my pretty much stock 2006 5. 9 4X4 48re Automatic for towing my 34 ft 12K Fifth Wheel. I am wanting to do the Smarty Jr but I want to make sure I have my ducks in a row. Gauges I have not added any and would like the convenience of something like the Edge CTS digital readout or a brand that does the same. I also want to make sure of the needs for the automatic transmission. And also somewhere near future a exhaust brake is in order. I am sure there are some new products in the making and would like that information as well. I would like all of the above to compliment one another with a clean look. Ideas from the experienced are appreciated as I know there are a few of you out there that have been there done that. Thanks in Advance!
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- Thread starter RBellah
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I have a boost and pyro gauges but after installing the Smarty Jr. , all my temps are lower than stock. How bad do you really need them?
Thats a good point, I'm sure it's a good idea to monitor transmission heat.
AH64ID
TDR MEMBER
Yes they are lower than stock, but you also can't run it up to stock temps or something will melt.
Boost/Pyro are a good idea with a Jr, almost mandatory.
It's a good idea to monitor the trans temp when towing (or not for that matter) whether you ahve a Smarty Jr (any tuner) or not. Like above you'll probably find that all the temps are lower with the Jr.
Sooner or later you'll probably want to do something with the trans.
Upgraded solenoid, accumulator, trans shift kit maybe a deeper pan.
Sooner or later you'll probably want to do something with the trans.
Upgraded solenoid, accumulator, trans shift kit maybe a deeper pan.
AH64ID
TDR MEMBER
You end up with more heat being absorbed by the piston/head, which is why coolant temps go up for the same power, hp goes up, economy goes up, and max sustainable EGT's go down.
I run a dual Westach gage with boost/pyro in a SRT-10 a-pillar mount. Nice clean factory look.
Run the Jr. on Economy, do as others have said and make sure the trans. is up to the task. Keep the bands adjusted and the fluid changed.
I spoke with Goerend the other day and the suggestion was to install a stock stall triple disc and billet input shaft... The factory converter is definitey a heat generating source in these trans... the triple should help that.
Keeping an efficient converter locked and the engine up out of a lug condition will help keep EGT down managable when pulling hard. .
The little 5. 9L will pull hard at extremely low RPM, but its not wise to do so. . The trans will not last ong in a high torque low RPM condition, and the exhaust valves/seats really get upset. .
Run the Jr. on Economy, do as others have said and make sure the trans. is up to the task. Keep the bands adjusted and the fluid changed.
I spoke with Goerend the other day and the suggestion was to install a stock stall triple disc and billet input shaft... The factory converter is definitey a heat generating source in these trans... the triple should help that.
Keeping an efficient converter locked and the engine up out of a lug condition will help keep EGT down managable when pulling hard. .
The little 5. 9L will pull hard at extremely low RPM, but its not wise to do so. . The trans will not last ong in a high torque low RPM condition, and the exhaust valves/seats really get upset. .
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I am still undecided on which gauges to install. The Edge CTS appears to be the easy hookup over the manual gauges and about the same cost. It hooks up to the port under the dash. This has me thinking does the smarty work with the Edge CTS and does it share the same port hookup?
At a minimum boost, pyro, and trans temp in the cooler output line. Those are the most important and the ones you will watch consistently. LP pressure, rail pressure, and turbo drive pressure are also extremely informative and help monitor how things are working while allowing you to adjust driving tactics.
Display is really up to the individual and how they want to use the gauges. Personally, the digital monitors do not work as well as a good set of analog gauges. The digital is hard to see and interpret at a glance while not having enough space to display all the info accurately. Having to jump between gauges is distracting while driving and just not as good experience as a quick glance across the dash, pillar, or rear veiw mirror. There are excellent choices for gauge pods in all 3 locations that are easily scanned and in the normal visual scanning locations.
Doesn't matter of your stock or powered up, the gauges give a lot better feel for how the engine wants to run and where the problems can be.
Ideally you want gauges first so you can familiarize yourself with the stock performance. Whne you start making changes you can see where they are going and the effect it has on the operational parameters. For quick diagnose and monitoring nothing beats a full set.
The trans will be problematic with power and towing that weight. It is already borderline with stock power, a little Smarty just pushes it over the edge. Especially if you use the power where needed.
A shift kit or VB is a MUST have. The stock pressures just will not support power and TQ modifications. It is the key piece to keeping the trans happy. Next is the front servo, accumulator and fornt band apply linkage. Too light and sloppy for advanced pressures and more power. Lastly, the TC is too loose and the stock lockup clutch borderline. Heavy towing wears it fast and with an EB is totally inadequate. TV pressure algorithms need modified to handle the extra TQ with less throttle.
My experiences tell me that short of total rebuild the following is about the best compromise to protect the transmissions and make it reliable with extra power:
Single disk TC - lower stall, better efficiency, better clutch material
Shift kit or VB
Billet front servo, billet accumulator, billet front band strut and anchor
Rigid front band
When you do the front band plan on having the clutch packs rebuilt with Raybestos High Energy frictions and new steels. They are right there when the front band is replaced and take the brunt of abuse, worse towing.
Since your in DFW area James Northrum in Midlothian would be a good resource to have a chat with.
Good luck.
Display is really up to the individual and how they want to use the gauges. Personally, the digital monitors do not work as well as a good set of analog gauges. The digital is hard to see and interpret at a glance while not having enough space to display all the info accurately. Having to jump between gauges is distracting while driving and just not as good experience as a quick glance across the dash, pillar, or rear veiw mirror. There are excellent choices for gauge pods in all 3 locations that are easily scanned and in the normal visual scanning locations.
Doesn't matter of your stock or powered up, the gauges give a lot better feel for how the engine wants to run and where the problems can be.
Ideally you want gauges first so you can familiarize yourself with the stock performance. Whne you start making changes you can see where they are going and the effect it has on the operational parameters. For quick diagnose and monitoring nothing beats a full set.
The trans will be problematic with power and towing that weight. It is already borderline with stock power, a little Smarty just pushes it over the edge. Especially if you use the power where needed.
A shift kit or VB is a MUST have. The stock pressures just will not support power and TQ modifications. It is the key piece to keeping the trans happy. Next is the front servo, accumulator and fornt band apply linkage. Too light and sloppy for advanced pressures and more power. Lastly, the TC is too loose and the stock lockup clutch borderline. Heavy towing wears it fast and with an EB is totally inadequate. TV pressure algorithms need modified to handle the extra TQ with less throttle.
My experiences tell me that short of total rebuild the following is about the best compromise to protect the transmissions and make it reliable with extra power:
Single disk TC - lower stall, better efficiency, better clutch material
Shift kit or VB
Billet front servo, billet accumulator, billet front band strut and anchor
Rigid front band
When you do the front band plan on having the clutch packs rebuilt with Raybestos High Energy frictions and new steels. They are right there when the front band is replaced and take the brunt of abuse, worse towing.
Since your in DFW area James Northrum in Midlothian would be a good resource to have a chat with.
Good luck.
If you want to use the Smarty POD it requires the data port hookup all the time. Otherwise, you woul have to unhook the CTS to change tunes or parameters.
Great information and appreciate all of your feedback for future need. Looks like gauges and then transmission upgrades as needed before I proceed with power upgrade. With only 38K miles I was needing this feedback to help me make the right decisions. Power is always wanted but nothing is worse than breakdowns on the road.
The '06 in my sig has about 575,xxx miles on it now and the transmission has only been serviced, never taken apart nor modified. The PO hauled loads in the bed of the truck (some quite heavy) with a Smarty Jr set on Tow for the first 533,xxx miles. Since then I have been delivering campers with it at CGW of up to 23,000 lbs and the trans still works flawlessly. Have no idea how long it will last but it is amazing what they are capable of when serviced regularly and treated with respect concerning driving habits.
Just a couple weeks ago I hooked up an older Edge Insight that I got a good deal on and am able to see 8 functions at once. Currently have it set to show trans temp, rpm (great when the '06 tach goes tits up), boost, IAT, rail pressure, load and a couple others. Would really like to be able to watch pre CP3 fuel psi but don't know if that is possible. It came with the pyro probe, just need time to get it hooked up. While it is easier to read gauges I have found it quite easy to glance at the Insight and check trans temp or boost or rail psi quickly and not have to do mental manipulations to know if the reading is within safe range. The new CS and CTS are capable of displaying gauges if you prefer. Didn't know if I would like the Insight just showing readings versus showing gauges or having individual gauges like I am used to but have found the Insight quite acceptable.
The Smarty Jr for towing really is the bomb.
Godspeed,
Trent
Just a couple weeks ago I hooked up an older Edge Insight that I got a good deal on and am able to see 8 functions at once. Currently have it set to show trans temp, rpm (great when the '06 tach goes tits up), boost, IAT, rail pressure, load and a couple others. Would really like to be able to watch pre CP3 fuel psi but don't know if that is possible. It came with the pyro probe, just need time to get it hooked up. While it is easier to read gauges I have found it quite easy to glance at the Insight and check trans temp or boost or rail psi quickly and not have to do mental manipulations to know if the reading is within safe range. The new CS and CTS are capable of displaying gauges if you prefer. Didn't know if I would like the Insight just showing readings versus showing gauges or having individual gauges like I am used to but have found the Insight quite acceptable.
The Smarty Jr for towing really is the bomb.
Godspeed,
Trent
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Ron,
Having "been there and done that" with an '06 my priority placement recommendation for someone with an '06 48RE pulling a trailer would be:
1. Exhaust Brake
2. Gauges
3. James Northrum transmission rebuild.
The exhaust brake is the single best option you can add to any manual transmission pre-ISB6. 7 or '06 or '07 48RE truck for towing.
James Northrum is an excellent builder and a good guy. He did a full DTT/JTT rebuild on my '06. He is honest and knows what he is doing.
After the EB, gauges, and DTT rebuild a magic black box would be an option you might choose.
Having "been there and done that" with an '06 my priority placement recommendation for someone with an '06 48RE pulling a trailer would be:
1. Exhaust Brake
2. Gauges
3. James Northrum transmission rebuild.
The exhaust brake is the single best option you can add to any manual transmission pre-ISB6. 7 or '06 or '07 48RE truck for towing.
James Northrum is an excellent builder and a good guy. He did a full DTT/JTT rebuild on my '06. He is honest and knows what he is doing.
After the EB, gauges, and DTT rebuild a magic black box would be an option you might choose.
Thanks AH for the boost info, did not know that.
Godspeed,
Trent
Godspeed,
Trent
I will probably concentrate on the transmission upgrades being that James will be doing that. He does have a lot of knowledge about this subject and tells you the full story of why and if's. I was originally just thinking of upgrading the valve body, however, I am now thinking of doing the Single Disk Billet TC as I am not sure I need the triple disk... about 450 difference. James is going to figure some different ways to go and let me know.
Whatever we do it will be better than it is now for sure. My truck has 39k on it and not many of those miles was used for towing so it should be in good shape for James to work with. It will be a few days before I get the truck back so I will post the results later.
Thanks to all of you for the help!
Whatever we do it will be better than it is now for sure. My truck has 39k on it and not many of those miles was used for towing so it should be in good shape for James to work with. It will be a few days before I get the truck back so I will post the results later.
Thanks to all of you for the help!
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Subscribe
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