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Pristine CB7 91' Accord SE F22A6, Engine stumble

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Darkbloodmon

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Just scooped up a 1 owner, meticulously maintained, 91' 120K mi Accord for a new daily to give me some time to work on (and potentially turn up the power) my 03 in my signature.

I haven't had the pleasure of working with Accords of this vintage, but I am very familiar with the K24A series engines. As a fun fact about me; my mother had a 90' Accord in green where I spent the first part of my life strapped into a car seat of. It was her very first car that she had purchased on her own. She was misty eyed driving it back home from the seller reminiscing about her first car.

I'll drop pics of the car after this post but I was wondering if there were any good forums comparable to TDR for CB7 Accords?

I have paper back factory service manuals coming in next week from Ebay.

I have an engine stumble issue, that is more present at idle but up to 3500rpm. A little bit of searching has revealed that the idle circuits are pretty sensitive on these accords. I've already tried tightening down the IAC valve plunger. I don't have any check engine light codes, I've already probed the 2 pin OBD1 in the passenger foot well to no avail.

ABS light is on(no codes able to be pulled), and I need brakes. Not and issue except that this cars abs system(4 wheel) has a separate reservoir, Both need to be flushed the main and the abs. I don't want to touch anything yet until I know how it works and the proper procedure for it. I also need pads and probably rotors. Issue being the rotors on the front are "hub captive" in which you have to remove the hub from the wheel bearing with a press like tool to change the rotors out. Not a fan of that design and apparently you can modify them to-not be hub captive with a different wheel bearing/hub assembly off another Honda of the era(looking for forums with guides on it). In the essence of it being a daily driver I want things to be quick and simple to get done given its a 31 year old car.

Any help or advise welcomed from Honda enthusiasts.
 
Here are some pics, I have not washed it yet.
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Very cool, never worked on them here is some basic stuff from alldata. Good luck with your new ride.

I did not read the TSB list but if you want any of those let me know, I'm not on here that much and don't have email notifications on. But will check back as time permits.
 

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Very cool, never worked on them here is some basic stuff from alldata. Good luck with your new ride.

I did not read the TSB list but if you want any of those let me know, I'm not on here that much and don't have email notifications on. But will check back as time permits.

Much appreciated, I'll get to reading.
 
@Darkbloodmon, Nice DD you picked up! Your idle issue may be related to the throttle body needing to be cleaned. If there's just a bit of carbon on the butterfly, will cause things to try and compensate for being held open. Just went through this on the DW Mitsubishi Outlander. Back off the butterfly was pretty black with some also on the body which was slightly held open. Sprayed a rag to clean everything with a throttle body safe cleaner. At least this solved my issue and you might check to see if this could be yours. Glad you'll be able to take your time installing toys on your truck.
 
I'm on my 4th and best Accord, a 2007 with 160k. Replaced a starter, dealt with a 5 speed auto trans shudder a couple of times and a stuck glove box that I had to learn how to open on YouTube. Some older Accords didn't like after market brake pads---they would "sing", so I still won't take a chance. Accords "sit" well on Michelins and give good mileage unless you drive like my friend's wife, who tries to turn corners like Mario Andretti. If I don't get 30 mpg, I've done too much short tripping or gotten in too big of a hurry.
 
OP, yours needs some better looking wheels.

I'll probably just stay with these OEM ones for now, they're 4 lug, to get 03 wheels (they doo look nice). I'd have to do a 5 lug hub conversion. I've already got a parts list in a RockAuto cart to change the captive rotors (hub over rotors) to Rotor over hubs on a 4 lug setup. I need brakes badly (they might be OEM) and It'd make brake jobs easier down the road.

Just got to get her running reliably for now. I've already got a money pit. But.... at some point I'll cave and start throwing parts at it. I also just picked up a full size matching spare from Pull-A-Part, there were about 7 accords of this era on yard.

Your idle issue may be related to the throttle body needing to be cleaned. If there's just a bit of carbon on the butterfly, will cause things to try and compensate for being held open

Going to try and tackle that today, there's quite alot of valves on the manifold side. EGR, Fast Idle Thermal valve, and Idle air control. Hopefully there's just carbon build up after 120K, all the components look original.
 
If you just need brakes, throw some cheap new pads on it and roll... Ive done it before, even scored rotors will seat and work while you get your ducks in a row.,... Not sure how far out of SPEC the rotors are, but my 2010 Honda is kicking down 160k door and I only put pads on @100k and they really didnt have to be done then, I have no plan to do before 200K, still original rotors, never turned.
 
I'll probably just stay with these OEM ones for now, they're 4 lug, to get 03 wheels (they doo look nice). I'd have to do a 5 lug hub conversion. I've already got a parts list in a RockAuto cart to change the captive rotors (hub over rotors) to Rotor over hubs on a 4 lug setup. I need brakes badly (they might be OEM) and It'd make brake jobs easier down the road.

Just got to get her running reliably for now. I've already got a money pit. But.... at some point I'll cave and start throwing parts at it. I also just picked up a full size matching spare from Pull-A-Part, there were about 7 accords of this era on yard.



Going to try and tackle that today, there's quite alot of valves on the manifold side. EGR, Fast Idle Thermal valve, and Idle air control. Hopefully there's just carbon build up after 120K, all the components look original.

Here a really good looking 4 lug America Racing wheel that I had on a 1991 Prelude.

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If you just need brakes, throw some cheap new pads on it and roll... Ive done it before, even scored rotors will seat and work while you get your ducks in a row.,... Not sure how far out of SPEC the rotors are, but my 2010 Honda is kicking down 160k door and I only put pads on @100k and they really didnt have to be done then, I have no plan to do before 200K, still original rotors, never turned.

I could, but I want to take to the time to do it thoroughly. It's a nice daily that was well maintained and I want to give it the same meticulous care I do for my 2500. That and family members will be driving it on occasion. Brake jobs aren't all that bad or time consuming, and now that I have something that fits in my garage the HOA can't say anything about something being on stands for any period of time.

It doesn't need to much, Fluid changes (Amsoil where applicable), brake and wheel bearing job on 4 corners, Alignment, and a power steering flush. This all excluding the idle and engine stumble.
 
Here a really good looking 4 lug America Racing wheel that I had on a 1991 Prelude.

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That is a gorgeous car. Those wheels don't look out of place at all. My father had a 97' in Red for a brief time before my parents found out my twin sisters were on the way 2 1/2 years after me. A 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee took its place and its still running to this day.
 
That is a gorgeous car. Those wheels don't look out of place at all. My father had a 97' in Red for a brief time before my parents found out my twin sisters were on the way 2 1/2 years after me. A 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee took its place and its still running to this day.

I bought it in 2008 and had it to play with for a few years. We drove from North of Seattle 70 miles to Eugene, Or to look at one, and found this one in Tacoma the next day on the way home. It had been an one family car and not molested, bone stock. Bought it right there on the spot and drove it home with DW following.

There was a saying for that vintage Prelude's, "Real men can die without airbags!" Honda replaced both of the front seat seatbelts because the drivers side retractor was having issues. Now that is customer service!!! Car was 17 or 18 years old at the time.

Picked up the 15" wheels and tires from a guy trading in a vehicle and they did not fit his new SUV.

The 91's came in two setups, all wheel steering or 4 wheel anti-loc brakes. Mine was the anti-loc brake model. It was fun to drive. We had a new 1984 Prelude until wife went into real estate sale and we bought the 1987 four door Accord.
 
Here a really good looking 4 lug America Racing wheel that I had on a 1991 Prelude.

Those were fun cars back then I drove a 86, too bad they don't make anything like them anymore... about the same amount of fun I had in my 1992 Civic SI Hatchback.. rode like it was on rails around corners, Good looking ride Sno.
 
Update on the engine stumble. Turns out the last time a timing belt job was done, the cam gear wasn't aligned and it was off by 1 tooth. Shop my parents have been going to for years that only works on Honda/Acura products caught it when dropped it off with a list of notes, observations and things I've cleaned and replaced. Asked for a timing belt/water pump w/seals (cam, oil pump etc.)

The timing belt was overdue since it was done 10 years ago, vehicle was in storage shortly after that last job was done.

No stumble, no idle fluctuation. Just happy F series purring.
 
It's a joy to drive, I'm getting approx. 300miles on a tank for about $40-45 with current fuel prices in NC. 20mi commute too and from work on the highway. Glad I bought it when I did with Diesel prices/supply about to go crazy.

It handles so well, double wishbone Front and Rear independent suspension is something else.
 
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