Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Problems Overheating

[AndyJohnson]

I have a 99 24v with the tst power max 1 and as far as i can tell nothing else the truck has pyro and boost gauges. Anyway i've been having problems overheating and looked into it the thermostat was fine and everything is serculating good. Then i noticed it looked to be pure antifreeze so i changed it out to a 50/50 mix and when i did looked at ports with mirror and they looked to be clean. It overheated again with a 22 ft gooseneck horse trailer with one horse but it cooled off pretty quick. However before this it overheated and didn't hardly cool off at all. I later checked the fan clutch and it was good. My uncle has a 00 and he said he has begun to have overheat problems also. (have not looked into this truck yet) Oh yeah on the 99 pyro's never even reached over 1000 and boost was good. and ideas? thanks

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Make sure your radiator is clean on both sides. The vapor from the crankcase breather tends to plug the radiator fins up in front of the fan. This is a common problem and the first thing to check.



Dan

 

[AndyJohnson]

On the 99 i blew out radiator intercooler everthing and couldn't see anything there in the first place other than dust and bugs.

 

[B.G. Smith]

How did you check the thermostat? The original thermostat in the 99 has a rubber cone around/over the valve part that comes loose and restricts the water flow when open, you can usually spot this if you put the thermostat in a pan of water and heat it above 180 deg. F so it will open. bg

 

[DWest]

Over heating

Andy: My 02 would overheat when pulling large loads in OD. The rpms were to low to spin the fan fast enough. Also fan clutch would not lockup. First time it happened we were starting the climb out of Denver in OD with plenty of power so when the warning beeper started it was already at 240. Stopped and cooled it down, then proceeded in 3rd with no problem. When I got back home I removed the radiator and found it was pretty well plugged where the oil breather tube comes out. Totally cleaned that up and changed fluid now it works fine in OD also. The blocked radiator keeps the heat sensors on the fan clutch from getting a reading on the heat buildup on the radiator, so it won't lockup. Hope this helps. DW

 

[macdaddy]

You didn't mention auto or manny?. If you have a stock automatic and do a long pull with the torque converter in fluid coupling mode (unlocked) and in third, she will cook the coolant in short order.



I had the same problem with my 99. Once I upgraded the transmission, including a more aggressively pitched stator and increased clutch surface area in the TC, I quit having the overheating problems.



If allowed the remain unlocked at WOT or close to it, it is murder on the ATF temperature.



Mac

 

[AndyJohnson]

I checked the thermostat by feeling the lines and making sure it was moving through both lines. Your way sounds pretty good though. It is a manual trans. and the fan is locking up. I have tried pulling in low rpms high rpms doesn't make a bit of difference. thanks for the input.

 

[robert4570]

I have a 99 24v with the tst power max 1 and as far as i can tell nothing else the truck has pyro and boost gauges. Anyway i've been having problems overheating and looked into it the thermostat was fine and everything is serculating good. Then i noticed it looked to be pure antifreeze so i changed it out to a 50/50 mix and when i did looked at ports with mirror and they looked to be clean. It overheated again with a 22 ft gooseneck horse trailer with one horse but it cooled off pretty quick. However before this it overheated and didn't hardly cool off at all. I later checked the fan clutch and it was good. My uncle has a 00 and he said he has begun to have overheat problems also. (have not looked into this truck yet) Oh yeah on the 99 pyro's never even reached over 1000 and boost was good. and ideas? thanks

My work truck had a similar problem. Coolant seemed to flow good , fan clutch checked out good etc. We found two problems the intake hose would literally cave in while under high rpms . The intake hose's internal spring was rusted and broken into several pieces. You would see it slowly cave in as the rpm's were increased . We replaced it and looked deeper into the problem.



The other problem was the factory radiator ,which after 140k miles the radiator panel was obstructed from years of corrosion impeding coolant flow and aggrivating the intake hose problem.

The tanks looked clean but when they where removed you could see the panel tubes and see why water flow was obstructed.



Replaced radiator ,radiator hose and problem was solved . Did a test run immediately after and what a differnce , it had been running a little bit hotter than when new for years till it finally became a serious prolem.

Good Luck

 

[AndyJohnson]

i'll have to check the hose. I'm not to excited about doing the radiator though it's like 550 my cost at the auto parts store.