2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission problems w/ back doors on quad cab

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) vp 44 -goes-hurt injectors

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Driving with O/D off.

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This is my first posting, so excuse any mistakes.



I have a 2001 Quad Cab 2500 that has the drivers side back door stuck. I had the same problem on my '99 2500 on the passenger side just before I traded it off. When I test drove the 2001, the drivers back door wouldn't open, but the dealer fixed it before I picked it up and told me that it was just stuck. I pull the handle and it doesn't open, then I pulled the handle from inside the back seat and pushed on the door at the same time and it won't budge. It acts like something is broken inside the door, but the dealer seemed to be able to fix it fairly quickly. Anyone else have similar issues? If so how did you fix it?



PTRodock

2001 2500 4x4 Cummins
 
Sorry to hear your troubles. Never had a problem with mine just when my girlfriend forgets that she has to close the front door first and then the back one. I hate when it goes bouncing off the cab!:mad:
 
petrodoc



Had the same problem with my 2000 Quad Cab both doors. Easy dealer fix. Apparantly there is a nut that loosens up and the latch will not work. I am not sure what they did to fix it but no problems in the last two and a half years.



cumapart



Where was you're truck built? My quad cab you have to shut the rear doors first. :confused:
 
Sorry Headlight---That's what my brain was saying but my fingers typed something else. I read my post and knew it was backwards bu you know what I meant. ;)
 
Quad Cab door

Mine would not open as well. I had to pull out on the handle and push in on the door to get the latch to release. Mine was not realsing on the bottom latch. You can access it via the vent on the back of the quad cab door on the inside. I could feel the metal rod that runs from the handle to the latch. It was loose. I just bent it with my hand to take out the slack. Do not over bend it or it will release before the top one does. Had to straighten my out alittle bit ( I over bent it). Been working fine now for about 8 months... .



Good Luck...



P. S. I pulled door panel off and realized afterwards that I didn't need too.
 
Thanks,



It turned out that the bar that goes form the handle down to the bottom latch came off at the handle. It just snaps in place and is helpd by two small spring steel tabs. I pulled the spring steel back out and put the bar back in place and it's working good now. I noticed that the access hole under the door panel had the plastic ripped, as if someone (dealer) had done this before. Hopefully by pulling the spring steel tabs out, it will hold up for awhile now.
 
Place a floor jack with a wood block under rear part of the open door. Then loosen the bolts holding the upper hinge to the cowl structure. CAREFULLY & SLOWLY pump the jack to raise the door, then tighten the hinge bolts.
 
Just to be different...

My back doors open fine all the time, the problem is they don't like to close every time. It usually crops up when it's really cold (-20), but can be hit or miss at any temperature. Usually only the top or the bottom will latch, but not both. I've spent 20 minutes getting a door to close all the way. Dealer thought it was excess grease... their fix didn't work. Grease too thick... again, their fix didn't work. Third time they adjusted the strikers, and now the back doors usually close every time, but now I hear wind noise and when I close the front doors, I can see the back doors move. Anybody got suggestions?



-Adam
 
In a year...

I'll be living in Colorado this time next year, but eventually I'll return to Fairbanks to retire, if not sooner. I doubt I'll have any temperature-related problems in CO, but I'd like to figure this out, so I can get it fixed, or maybe convince the wife it's time to turn this into a work truck, and buy an '03 :D .



-Adam
 
I just had this happen to me today. I removed the door release handle and reconnected the one rod that was disconnected. The problem is the door still doesn't open. The latch felt tighter than it used to and I heard the rod pop back out again.



Any suggestions before I take it to the dealer for repair?
 
Originally posted by ptrodock

Thanks,



I noticed that the access hole under the door panel had the plastic ripped, as if someone (dealer) had done this before.



I pulled the door panel on mine and found the same thing. Ticks me off too because you can't get them as a replacement part. The Service Manual says you can and makes a note about cleaning the surface with alcohol when putting a new one on. Dealer parts computer flashes "not a serviceable part" in big letters though. So I'm stuck with a punched-out water-shield because someone was too lazy to care.



I pulled the door panel to fix an inop inside dorr handle issue. The cable had popped out of the door panel in this case. I fixed it and it lasted a day :( So I'll get back in there sometime. Just a heads-up when you go back together.
 
On a side note, especially in reference to the post above about door sag, if you notice how violently the body on our trucks shakes when you shut the engine down - and to a large degree on startup as well - have you stopped to think what that does to door hinges when the door is open when you shut the engine off?



Just imagine the stress on those hinges when all the weight of the doors is shaking like a wet dog shaking water of it's coat - can't be too good for those hinges! Call me anal - but I always make sure to NOT shut down or start the engine with the doors even partly open!
 
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