Problems with 48RE Tow Haul/OD lockout Mode

[KWold]

Hello to everyone! This is my first post as I have just become a member.



I dropped my CTD off the dealer this morning to get two things done:



1) TSB for the battery code after plugging the truck in



2) Tow/Haul mode and OD lockout is not working correctly



I am wondering if anyone here has had problems with #2?



Here is a more detailed description...



My truck has around 5K miles on it. The tow/haul - OD button does not work (meaning I get no Dashlight alerting me to Tow/Haul or OD lockout when I hit the button, and I cannot feel the transmission change shifts. When the truck had under 4K miles, the Tow/Haul OD lockout worked perfectly. I could hit the button at speeds under 60mph and the truck would go into Tow/Haul or OD lockout as indicated by the dashlight and by the seat of my pants (feeling the transmission shift).



When I start the truck up the first thing in the morning, I can select Tow haul with no trouble. This lasts until I get the truck warmed up 180+ coolant temp. Then at some random point the Tow Haul will stop working. The transmission temp never goes above 170 even while towing my Boat. The only way I can get the tow haul to work again is to stop the truck, place it in park, shut the motor down for 10-15 minutes. Then sometimes I get the tow haul mode back.



I have called Edge to see if the Edge Juice could be causing this issue. They said No, but they asked me to remove it anyway. So, I completely removed the Edge Juice from the truck (not just unplugging it). Removing the Edge did not help. I have left it off because I don't want the dealer to say the Edge caused the issue.



Also, I have not been bombing the truck. I drive and tow on stage 1 and my EGT's; Trans temp; etc are all at acceptable levels. Heck my 6000 pound boat and trailer does not even make the CTD break a sweat. I have tried stage 3 a couple of time will rolling freeway passes but that is about it.



Will update this post once the dealer can diagnose.

 

[KWold]

Just an update for those who care...





Dealer called and said after 6 hours the tech cannot find the problem with the Tow Haul/OD not working. I confirmed that both the service writer and the mechanic can repilicate the issue.



So now the service writer starts asking me about mods. Here we go.



The truck only has 5K miles on.



So now I am stuck driving a Dodge Caliber on my dime (rental) until they can figure this thing out. God I hope this does not turn out to be a huge fight... Sigh.

 

[Mark1si]

Welcome to DC warranty world

 

[DKnotts]

I would stand strong and deny any and all alligations of any modifications until they can prove you DID do some sort of mod to the truck. And if it takes them more than just today the renal car is on THEIR dime, not yours, according to warranty policy. I'm by no means an expert but it seems a simple reflash of the drivetrain computer might fix the issue. But when it comes back fixed I would definately drive it around testing the switch settings before you reinstall the Juice. This way be sure it IS fixed and then if it happens later then maybe something is up with the Juice.

Seperate note: I am very interested in the Juice w/ attitude setup but haven't taken the plunge yet. Any suggestions? Do you like it? Anything you did/would have done different? Thanks.

 

[KWold]

So I talked to the dealer again today, well the service writer. I asked him point blank if he is trying to say the mods caused the condition (thereby making the warrenty go by by).



He repiled, no. He said that he was trying to get information to see if any of the mods I had done:



Edge Juice

Fog lights (Hellas)

SRT10 pillar with boost gague



Could have possibly screwed up the electrical.



As it stands now, the mechanic is stumped as to why the TowHaul/OD thingus aint working right. The Mechanic had to call the "Magic" phone number to get some more help. So at least, for now, the mods are NOT an issue here. Hopefully they can come to a resolution on the problem. Will keep updating as I get info... .



Should add the one thing I regret was wasting money on a pillar mount for the Attitude monitor. I ended up using the hold by the drivers side (left open due to the fact I do not have an electric 4Wh selector) to mount the Edge too. After installer the pillar mount (and drilling holes in the A pillar for the mount) I decided it looked like *** and it had to go. Hence the reason I got a nice SRT10 pillar from Genos.





As for the Edge Juice. I do like it. In fact, I like it even more because I had to take it off. Sound strange? That is because I really miss the power on stage 1 and the drivability. With the Juice removed, my truck is still powerfull but has lost its Edge (bad pun). Meaning the the trucks power is no longer "right there" when I hit the throttle and the transmission likes to shift a whole lot more all over the place. Can't want to put my Edge back on.



Is the Edge Juice the best power solution? Probably not, but it works for me. Also love the gauges you get with the Attitude. If you have any more specific questions about the Edge Juice, install or otherwise let me know.

 

[Thump]

I have nothing to add to the warranty item, other than the car is supposed to be on their dime.
But...
Where did you install the pyro temp sensor for the Edge box?
Heck, where'd you buy the system and what'd you get it for?

 

[KWold]

I bought the Edge Juice/Attitude combo from HERE for about 683 bucks.



As for the Pyro tap:



I chose to tap the exhaust manifold right above where the down tube is. If you look at your exhaust manifold, start from the front of the engine and look back towards the rear of the engine. After the heat shield stops you will see the exhaust manifold come together (about piston 4) and you will see the down tube part of the manifold. I tapped on top of the manifold, above the downtube almost where the two parts come together. I used a 90 drill adapter (bought a craftsman 90 attachement at Sears for 19 bucks) to aid in drilling.



To pre-empt the next question...



Yes I drilled the Exhaust manifold, without removing it from the block. I started on a cold motor and used heavy grease on the drill bit. I would drill for a bit, then wipe the bit with a towel, apply more grease and keep going. After drilling, I used the 1/8 NPT pipe tap and was VERY CAREFULL not to over tap the hole. A few twists on the tap is all I needed. The reason for this is you do not want the pyro gauge going down so far as to touch the other side of the manifold (this is bad). Then I mounted the pyro gauge and started the motor. I let the motor idle for 5 minutes or so to clear out any shaving (cause dem turbos are fussy about metal shavings and such).



It sounds a lot more scary than it really is. Just take your time, read over the instructions a few times to make sure you have the steps in the right order.

 

[KWold]

Just got another update... .



Looks like DC has told the dealer to go ahead and replace the PCM. So looks like I might get the truck back by tomorrow.



As for the rental, I have an aftermaket warrenty that will cover the rental so all is good there.



Hopefully the new PCM clears up the issue. Just have to make sure they turn my DRLs and Power off timer back on after installing the new PCM.

 

[DKnotts]

sorry, but somewhat of a newbe to the diesel owners world but what are DRL's and the power off timer?

 

[KWold]

There are a couple of features that can be "activated" on your truck by the dealer:



DRL = Daylight Running Lamps



Power Off Timer = Allows the inside electrical to remain on after the engine is shut off until a door is opened



Interior Light Timer = The dealer can set how long the interior lamps stay on with the key removed



Exterior Lamp Timer = The dealer can set how long the headlights remain on if you shut the lights off after killing the motor.



High Idle feature = On Automatics, it allows for the idle to kick up to 11-1200 in cold weather.



I might be missing some...

 

[KWold]

Last update to this issue... .





The dealer replaced the ECM (which also has a PCM and the TCM). Looks like that did the trick. I can go into Tow-Haul and OD lockout on command. Also, I had some annoying shift points with my 48RE when merging onto the freeway that have mysteriously gone away!



I am talking about getting on the gas on an on ramp, having the motor sit at around 2500 for 1-3 seconds, then having it shift and getting a flood of power.



Now, I hit the gas to merge, the tac goes to about 2000 grand then shifts. All along giving me a nice steady boost of power (without even having my edge installed). WOOT. I am guessing my TCM (Transmission Control Module) was bad from day 1. Honestly its like a whole different beast now.



Very happy to have my CTD back.