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Problems with Geno's fuel pressure gauge.

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Perhaps Cryppie or someone else who has installed the Westach fuel pressure gague from Geno's could help me out. The part # D2C8-8 Kit I was sent included both the gauge and sender. Is that the part you got? In the instruction sheet the sender only shows a single top terminal, while mine has 2. The instructions state to connect the green wire from the gauge to the sender, and the black to ground. The label on the sender calls them #1 and #2 and states to connect the green to #1 and #2 to ground, but they are not identified. I tried connect the wires either way but could not get the gauge to work. I have both power and ground to the gauge but no signal from the sender. I then got the Ohm meter out and got no resistence to ground from either terminal on the sender. I do have fuel going to the sender, as the spots on my shirt will attest. I assume that the sender is faulty as I should have some resistence to ground. What gives?









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Tom, I just installed one on my truck last week. Those appear to be old (real old) installation instructions. Your terminals on the sender were marked? hmmm. I ran the green wire (#2)to one terminal and the ground wire (#5) from the gauge to the other terminal on the sender and then to ground. My favorite ground is the 10mm sheet metal screw on the drivers side fender near the battery. It's the one that has a wire going to the neg. side of the battery.

I had a similar problem when I installed my boost/egt and transmission temp gauge a few months ago. Got away from it for a while and then figured out what was wrong. "illflem" helped a little too w/ comment about ground. For some reason the lite bulb went off and I solved the problem.

Good luck,

Tom
 
tmacc - I wired mine exactly the same as you describe. Green wire #2 from the gauge to one terminal on the sender and #5 ground to the other terminal and then to a common ground. Which of the terminals did you use for #2 and #5? I tried both and could not get a reading. I checked all grounds and verified that I did indeed have a proper ground, but still could not get any readings. I still can't figure out why I couldn't measure any resistance from either sender terminal. The troubleshooting instructions state that you should get a resistance reading at the terminals. Maybe the sender is bad!
 
When looking at the sending unit, with the terminals toward you, then hook the left terminal to gauge and ground the right side.

I ordered mine direct from Westach before Genos had them and in talking to them they also recommended grounding the gauge to same grounding screw as sending unit, not just to any 2 chassis grounds. I used the one on the fender by the driver side battery.

Larry
 
I agree the instructions sent with the kit are quite dated. This is how I hooked mine up and it works great. The green wire goes to one side of the sender, black to the other (don't know if it matters which side, mine worked first time). Then put an additional wire to the terminal with the black wire to a chassis ground, I hooked mine up under the ABS controller. That way both the gauge and the sender are on the same ground. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Cryppie and others for your insight. I connected the #5 ground to one of the senders' terminals and then included another ground from that same terminal. Now it works! The instructions stated to run the second ground to anyplace on the sender and showed a picture of that ground connected to the hose clamp that fastens the sender. Following their instructions makes the unit inoperable! This is something that Geno's might think about adding to their fuel gague packaging or perhaps discuss with Westach. Incorrect instructions are worse than none at all!!:mad: :mad: :mad:
 
Ditto, to your solutions w/the install, I had the same problem. To complete a circuit you have to have a path between + & - and there was no continuity between the term and the housing. It seems that I don't get the quick start that I use to with the sender installed. Seems as thought there is a slight drain back from the sender, since it is inverted, and I get a hic-up as though it's alowing air into the system. I'm measuring 11 1/2 psi @ idle and it doesn't drop below 9 1/2 @ WOT: it stays a 10. 5 to 11psi a 65-70mph.
 
Those numbers are way better than what I am seeing! I get 10 PSI at idle and see 6-7 PSI at 70 mph. At wide open /30 lbs of boost I see 2-3 psi. I think my injectors might flow a bit more than the 275's and perhaps there is a difference in timing and fueling between the VA and EZ. Or I might just have a weaker lift pump (my second one by the way).
 
Is your sender pre or post filter? If it's after the filter, how long since you changed it? I'm on my first (fingers crossed) lift pump and show 11 1/2 - 12 psi at idle and lowest I've seen is 4 psi at WOT, 31 psi boost (EGT RAPIDLY approaching nuclear fusion on the gauge).
 
Installed mine tonight. Much easier with the improved instructions from all of you on the board.



I have a Holley gauge pre filter and the new Westach is post filter. At idle, both readings were about 10. 5 or 11 psi. It was too late to take it out for a test drive.



Has most everyone hooked up the lights on the gauge? Is it difficult? Any tips? thanks
 
I think the easiest way is to run a wire down to the headlight switch and tap into the gauge light circuit. Don't have my service manual right here so I can't tell you which wire it is, but pretty to easy to figure out with a voltmeter.
 
I may be an idiot, but where did you guys find the Geno's fuel pressure gauge? I've looked in their latest (I think) catalog and their web site and I don't see it. Can someone please help the visually impared? Thanks.



David
 
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David,



The gauge is on page 2 at the bottom of Geno's latest catalog (Catalog 32, look on the back page at the top for #). As for the web site, I can't locate it either.



In case you don't have the proper catalog, their number is 1-800-755-1715. The product number is: 2C8-8. Description: 0-15psi Pressure Gauge - $65 (includes 1/8 NPT sending unit).



Hope this helps,



David :)
 
leaking pressure gauge

I've had mine on for a week now. Let the truck sit for a week and it wouldn't start. Looked under the hood and found the gauge was leaking at the threads. It started after I purge the air. Has anyone had a similar problem? What was the fix? The instructions say not to use teflon tape. Is the anything else you can use that won't get sucked into the injector pump? I have mine mounted post filter. I'm afraid of over tightening it and cracking something.
 
leaking fuel pressure gauge

It's not leaking at the housing port, it's leaking at threads between the gauge and elbow. Doesn't seem to want to tighten anymore. What's up wit dat?
 
arar, I know that they said not use teflon tape on the threads, so I didn't. I did use a fuel resistant pipe dope on the male threads, making sure that I kept it well back from the end of the fitting so nothing could get in the system. No leaks.



It sounds like you have your sender mounted on the filter housing. I remote mounted mine over by the master cylinder w/ some PUSH-LOK 1/4" line and fittings and a bracket that I fabricated (wasn't much). Apparently the vibration from the engine can damage or disable the sender. Just something to keep in mind.

Tom
 
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David,



Thanks for the info. As I found out, I wasn't looking at the most recent catalog. I found the right one, looked at the bottom of page 2 and BOOM. There it was, right where you said it would be. Thanks.



Has anyone tried hooking this gauge to a switch using 2 sending units?



Thanks for your help.

David
 
Fuel Press Sender Connection

For 2000 and 2001's, how is the sender connected? Does a special fitting come with the gauge kit? I can't imagine drilling and tapping a hole in the plastic fuel filter cover.



Thanks
 
JohnS, It's really quite simple. I used PUSH-LOK fittings & hose that I got from a local truck supply. I used a 1/8npt female fitting to go on the sender and a -4AN female to go on the injection pump test port. That's the schaeder valve in the pump. You have to remove the valve core from the valve (just like a tire valve) before you install the -4AN fitting. I made a simple bracket that bolted onto an existing bracket over by the master cyl. and mounted the sender on that. I used about 2. 5 ft. of Push-lok hose in between.

I just got some of Ray Torresdal's modified banjo bolts and will re-plumb it, but the system I have now works fine w/ no leaks.

Tom
 
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I am wondering for the 00 and 01 trucks; if you could get a high pressure refrigeration gauge tester hose. I think it would screw right on to the test port and depress the scharder valve without removing it. Cut the other end off and use a barb fitting there to sender. Would this work? Certainly handle pressure but will fuel weaken or damage it? Anyone see problems with that? I got one in the garage I could use and replace later. :)
 
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