Here I am

Problems with NV 5600 or clutch??

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Stacking rail guage with TST

Transmisson PAns

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have a 2003 diesel 2500 ram pickup with a problem and not sure if it is the transmission or clutch.



I have been using my truck for snow plowing and when I put it in 1st 2nd or reverse it won't come back out of gear. Even when I push the clutch it still wants to move slowly in the direction the gear is in. I have to shut the engine down to get it out of gear. This does not happen all the time.



I hate to just start buying parts and putting them in, so I was hoping someone has had this problem and can give me some idea what could be causing this to happen.



Thanks for your help.
 
I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but years ago I had an old Willy's jeep with the same problem. It was the throwout bearing for the clutch.



Food for thought, hope this helps.
 
I'm assuming you have a stock setup. I had this happen to me also and it turned out to be the hydraulic slave cylinder, just like mopartech said. It goes bad and the piston inside can't push the fluid through the system anymore. If that's the problem, then the only fix is to put in a new one. I would recommend, however, that you get one from South Bend Clutch. They are the same or, close, price and theirs are adjustable so that if you decide to put in an aftermarket clutch in the future, you will be able to fine tune the hyd to the clutch. There are some cases-such as mine-where an aftermarket clutch will do exactly what you're describing now but not be broken. The factory hyd simply doesn't have enough travel to disengage a high performance clutch. This is why I got the aftermarket hyd. It can be adjusted to fix this. Here's the link: South Bend Clutch Dodge Clutch Kits Catalog



On the bottom right side of the page you should see the parts.



Good luck!
 
I have a thought or two... using a stock clutch to plow with, naturally overheats the friction to a temperature that its not designed to handle... . once it reaches a point the friction will get to where its starting to fail... the resin in the friction is getting too hot... if the disc try's to stick to either the flywheel or pressure plate the clutch will have problems full releasing... .

In addition, if you have the habit of resting your foot on the clutch, while you wait to shift from 1 to 2 to R and back again... . you easily could have damaged the fingers on the cover or the release bearing. . if either of these surfaces are damaged, and material is missing than the clutch might not full release... . it just can't travel the correct distance... .

We've for the first time had over 2x's our normal annual snow fall in less than 3 weeks... something like 72-75" and buried our town... . I can't begin to tell you how many customers we had who had burnt out their clutch because of one of the 2 listed above. .

We offer a ceramic clutch for these applications... takes the heat very well, won't slip, and can chatter in "R"... . but holds up... Npritch, you don't mention where in the country your at... but usually in each large city is someone who has the knowledge to look at your clutch, test it... and give you an idea of whats wrong...

In any case it has to come out and be inspected...
 
I have seen where a clutch disk actually welds itself to the flywheel on a cummins and you cannot get it into any gear when the engine is running, its just like the clutch is engaged the whole time, we fought that thing for a week until we decided to pull the trans and found the problem. he said it doesn't happen all the time so I don't think thats the case, I vote for hydros, but it may be cheaper to pull the trans if you know what your doing.
 
I agree with the hydros being the problem. Mine went at 80k.



How'd you get so lucky? Mine went at 60k. With my fifth wheel camper on. While backing up into my driveway. The day before I was going to take it out for Memorial Day Weekend. There were a few people waiting to come with me. Great timing, huh?
 
Some more possibles.



We have seen many clutch failure to release posts here that have had a shot pilot bearing as the cause. If it jams, the input shaft continues to turn. If yours is intermittent, than it may not be the cause.



The hydraulic system is testable for air and loose pedal cluster parts. Use a damper puller or similar and remove the slave cylinder from the trans, leave it connected to the hydraulic line. Use the puller to block the piston from extending, push on the pedal with your fingers, then use toe pressure. Do not stomp on the pedal. You are looking for a hard pedal after a very short take up of the system. If the pedal moves, think air or worn clutch pedal parts.



Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the responses.



Seems like everyone thinks it is the same thing so I am putting in new hydros and will let you know if that did the trick.



Thanks again.



Norm
 
Some more possibles.







The hydraulic system is testable for air and loose pedal cluster parts. Use a damper puller or similar and remove the slave cylinder from the trans, leave it connected to the hydraulic line. Use the puller to block the piston from extending, push on the pedal with your fingers, then use toe pressure. Do not stomp on the pedal. You are looking for a hard pedal after a very short take up of the system. If the pedal moves, think air or worn clutch pedal parts.



Good luck.





Not all the time. It seems like on our Rams the fluid is bypassing a seal interrnally. The hydros do not get soft and they do not drip, they just blead past the seal causing the clutch to engage. It's scary as your truck is running out of control toward the back of a Honda at a stop light.





BTW, glad you found the problem.
 
What DE JEEPER says is how it happened to me. The fluid was just seeping past the seal and doing nothing. Good thing I was in my driveway.
 
First started noticing mine when backing my 5th wheel. Riding the clutch to control speed, next thing you know I couldn't stop at all. Had to turn off to get out of gear. It was fluid leaking past the seal as well. Normal driving (clutch in long enough to shift) worked like a charm. It would only happen if I was sitting in gear with the clutch pedal depressed. Luckily, mine was covered under warranty. -Trey
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top