Proper Equalizer Hitch Hooking ?

[desertryder]

I have had an equalizer hitch on my trailers for many years.

I am just not sure as to how it SHOULD be hitched up.

How do you guys do it.

Do I leave the trailer on the tounge jack a bit and then tighten the chains up or is there a better way ??



Thanks

 

[AMink]

I hook the trailer to the hitch, then jack up the trailer AND the back of the truck until it is easy to hook to the link that makes my rig level. Then "close" the chain holder. (Now that's a technical term!) Then reel in the jack. I reverse it when I unhook. I only need a breaker bar when the truck and trailer are not level with each other. Once you figure out which link keeps you level, it's really quick and easy.

 

[y-knot]

Not sure if my way is technically the right way or not, but this is how I do it. First thing is the ball mount needs to be level, most weight distributing hitches I have seen have, have provisions for this. Trucks like the 3500 sit tail high, so it is very important to adjust the ball mount so it is level. On most mounts, there are washers that can be added, or removed to level out the mount, when just re-tighten the whole thing. Next I like to hook the trailer up to the truck, lock it on and adjust the tongue jack till the trailer sits level. then hold the equalizing bars, and stretch out the chains in front of their mounting locations. Make a note of which link will go on it's mount while in this position. Jack up the truck/trailer with the tongue jack till, till you can install the chains on their mounts, two links down from where they were marked when level. This usually gets me very close to where I need to be, you can adjust up or down from there as needed. This method is only for the chain mounts that are stationary, the ones that move and use a bar to tensions them are different. For those, I level the trailer as before, and hold the bars up to their mount and see where the chains are when the MOUNTS ARE IN THERE CLOSED POSITION. Then I go down one link and see how that feel, again you can adjust from there, but this should get you close. Good Luck.

 

[Red360]

You Want An Angle!!!

The ball mount SHOULD NOT be level. The greater the angle, the truer the trailer will track. Those washers are to angle the hitch so the weight distributing bars are at an angle unloaded and then parallel to the ground when under tension.



Here are the steps I use:



1) The first thing to check is that your ball is in as close to the back bumper as possible. If it can go in closer you should get an expert hitch installer to re-drill the 2" solid square section of the hitch and if necessary cut it to allow the ball to be as close as possible to the bumper. Even a couple of inches here will make a difference. Try to have your rig loaded pretty similar to how it is when you normally travel. For better balance, if the water tank is in the front fill it, if it is in the back empty it. The only way to really adjust everything properly is to park the combination on a very flat surface, such as a concrete pad.



2) Park the unit in a straight line on the level pad.



3) Disconnect the trailer and move the tow vehicle forward 6".



4) Level the trailer: If the "A" Frame is level with the main frame rails then I usually measure to the bottom of the frame between the wheels and to the bottom of the "A" frame just behind the ball. Then measure from the ground to the top of the coupler to determine the ball height



5) Measure from the ground to the top of the ball on the tow vehicle - it should be equal to or 1/2" higher than the trailer ball height. This is especially critical if the trailer has independent suspension. If the trailer has leaf springs, the ball can be an inch or two lower. The weight between the front and rear axles is equalized on units with leaf springs.



6) Next check the angle on the ball mount. The ball mount should angle back as much as possible. This angle on the ball mount acts like the forks of a bicycle - it makes the unit want to stay in a straight ahead position (that is why you can ride a bike with no hands).



To check the angle, install a torsion bar in the ball mount and swing it parallel to the trailer frame. The end of the bar should be 4-5" off the ground when you lift it enough to take all the play out of it. If the ball height is over 22" then the bars can be a higher off the ground.



7) Back-up the tow vehicle so that the ball is under the coupler, but do not put any weight on the ball. Put some masking tape on each corner of the car and mark a convenient spot. Here we used 19". Now we know how the vehicle sits by itself.



8) We are now ready to start connecting the combination. Lower the trailer onto the ball and connect the torsion bars to the link that you think might be correct (likely the first or second link) and lower the weight onto the car. If you are connecting a vehicle with independent rear suspension do not raise the back of the car to connect the torsion bars, instead use a jack under the torsion bar if you need help to get the chain swung up.



9) Now measure the vehicle where you marked it and see how much it has been pushed down. It should go down evenly on all four corners. If it is down more at the back then you need more pressure on the torsion bars so you would reconnect using the next link. (Page Top)



10) Often you will hook up and the back will be down say 1 1/2" and the front will be up 1/2" but it you pull up the next link the back might be even and the front down 1" so you need something in between, you need a way to adjust a partial link. A 1/2" bolt pushed through two overlapping links is a 1/3 of a link of adjustment. So you can use one or two bolts in the chain to create 1/3 or 2/3 link of adjustment.



11) If the vehicle does not drop evenly side to side then you can put more pressure on one bar to compensate. The right hand torsion bar will affect the left front of the car and vice versa. Especially on pickup trucks due to the flex in the chassis the back end may twist in relation to the front. In this case the front is the most important.



12) If you cannot get the front of the vehicle pushed down no matter how far you do the bars up then the torsion bars are likely too light or the receiver on the vehicle is twisting and needs to be stronger.



13) Once you have everything set, mark the link you connect for future reference. We use a cable tie but a dab of paint or nail polish is a popular method. On a new hitch, the bars will work-in quite quickly and after a few hundred miles you may need to use a bolt to bring the bars up 1/3 of a link.



14) Install your sway control, breakaway cable, chains and lights, and you are ready to travel.



Hope this helps!!!

 

[y-knot]

Sorry to bust your ANGLE(ha,ha) but the instruction manual that came with my Draw Tite weight distributing hitch clearly states that the first step in setting up the hitch, is adjusting the ball mount so the ball is level. I have always set them level, and to me it makes perfect sense. I also adjust on the ball mount to get the trailer level. In my experience, a level trailer tows best, so why wouldn't I want my ball mount to be level also?? Not looking for any arguments (why does this always happen to me????) I don't care how you or anyone else hooks up their trailer, I was only responding to the post.

 

[Red360]

Y-KNOT,

You're not busting my angle theory. EAZ-LIFT clearly states that the "spring bar should hang down on a 10 to 13 degree angle when ball mount has been tilted back at a 6 to 8 degree angle". That way when the trailer is hooked up and tension is put on the bars, the bars will be parallel to the road. I've been using these hitches for over 30 years, and have never heard of the ball angle being level. It simply doesn't make sense when using bars. A regular non-WDH, yes.

 

[Loren]

The reason you can ride a bicycle with no hands is because of the trail. Trail is the distance between the intersection of the pivot point (the extension of steering head) and the contact patch of the tire. It is only indirectly related to the angle of the steering head.



The front casters on shopping carts have trail, but they are not angled. The trail is why they tend to self-center, the same as a bicycle.



The reason for the angle on the hitch head is not to provide trail, but rather to provide enough of a downward pitch to the spring bars. When the spring bars are attached there needs to be several inches of chain between the top of the bar and the chain hook up point. This length is to allow the spring bars to move fore and aft as the trailer pivots on the ball. If the chain is too short, the spring bars will push or pull on the chain hook up points and tend to slide them fore and aft along the trailer A-frame.



Several pages can be written on how to adjust an equalizing hitch properly, but the basic rules are these:

• When the trailer is hooked up, the trailer should be level. Measure from the front and rear of the frame to the pavement on a level surface to determine this.
  
• When the trailer is hooked up, the truck should be level, or close to it. That is, it should not sag in the rear. Measure front and aft points on the truck when empty and check the same points when hooked up.
  
• The spring bars should be set at an appropriate angle to allow six or more links of chain between the chain hook up point and the spring bar.
  

The hitch ball mount may need to be adjusted vertically to achieve this. The angle of the ball mount may also need adjustment. Several different trial adjustments will probably be done before you get it right.



The instructions supplied by most hitch manufacturers should have more detailed descriptions of all the steps involved to achieve the desired result. See pages 19-21 of this pdf file for Airstream's instructions:

Airstream International Trailer Owner's Manual



(It's a long document and will take a while to download. )



Good luck,

Loren