Proper Trailer Tongue Height

[EdZacko]

This question concerns a 2017 Ram 2500 68RFE auto Trans, 3,42 Rear, 4wheel drive LT285/60R20E DWL On/Off Road Tires and the Offroad Package.
The trailer is a 2 axle boat trailer with 4 wheel electric over hydraulic DISC brakes---total weight approx 13,000lb.

Normal procedure is to level the trailer and measure from tongue to the ground. Adjust the trailer hitch so the height of the ball matches the height of the tongue. The result ---BEFORE tongue weight is added, should be that the trailer is level with the weight of the load distributed evenly to both axles(2 axle trailer)---Once the tibgue weight is added the rear end drops down and this is finally adjusted by setting the weight distribution springs to bring the rig level.

Now---for some reason the documentation that came with my new trailer----after it explains all of the above---specifically states "For Owners of Ram Vehicles, it is recommended to set the height of the tongue TWO INCHES HIGHER and adjust from there.

I'm confused. Can anyone elaborate as to why this recommendation?

Eddie

 

[Ozymandias]

Never heard of this, maybe it applies to the air suspension setup.
I'd just set it level with the tongue weight applied.

 

[NIsaacs]

I agree with OZ.

Does the trailer have torsion or spring axles?

 

[Wiredawg]

Well, either go with what you know or ask the trailer manufacturers why.

 

[EdZacko]

Never heard of this, maybe it applies to the air suspension setup.
I'd just set it level with the tongue weight applied.

Actually I dont rightly know. The truck is new to me and I am still in the process of discovering just what I have.
Eddie

 

[EdZacko]

Never heard of this, maybe it applies to the air suspension setup.
I'd just set it level with the tongue weight applied.

That's what I was planning to do, unless someone can give me a good reason to change.
Perhaps the recommendation assumes NO EQUALIZER hitch.
I plan on 1000lb of tongue weight with a level trailer.
It is a CLASS V Hitch 2 1/2 in shank---no reducer.
Blue Oz set up all the way.
Your thoughts Oz?
Eddie

 

[EdZacko]

Well, either go with what you know or ask the trailer manufacturers why.

They dont seem to know. The recommend comes from the mfg of the Hitch set up----Blue OX. I guess I could give them a shout.
Eddie

 

[Wiredawg]

They dont seem to know. The recommend comes from the mfg of the Hitch set up----Blue OX. I guess I could give them a shout.
Eddie

Yep, and if they were reputable sellers, they'd find out for you. They weren't Chinese were they?

 

[Ozymandias]

That's what I was planning to do, unless someone can give me a good reason to change.
Perhaps the recommendation assumes NO EQUALIZER hitch.
I plan on 1000lb of tongue weight with a level trailer.
It is a CLASS V Hitch 2 1/2 in shank---no reducer.
Blue Oz set up all the way.
Your thoughts Oz?
Eddie

Sounds good to me, go for it.

 

[AH64ID]

You want the trailer as close to level as possible, after all adjustments are made. Adjusting the ball vertically generally has no impact on weight transfer.

As far as weight transfer goes you want at least 50% going back to the steer axles. The heavier the suspension, and the longer the wheelbase, the more difficult weight transfer becomes.

Tongue weight is calculated before weight transfer, not after. For a 13K trailer 1,300 lbs TW is the minimum recommended, but I’d be happier at 1700-1900lbs since it will tow more stable. Boats, if it is one (as I recall), can often run lower but 1,400 is as little as I would personally want. 1,000lbs is just begging for trailer instability.

Short story last… 13-15% TW is best (boats maybe 10-13%), transfer 50-75% of the weight back to the front axle (irrelevant weight compared to TW), and a level trailer.

 

[EdZacko]

Thanks to all!
Will post again after I hear from Blue Ox and also after I load the trailer and hit the road.

Just for the record, with my old trailaer---a duplicate of the new one, I was running just under 1000 lb TW and after tens of thousands of miles have never had a problem with sway. I WILL increase it with this one because the hitch is rated for a higher TW.
Eddie

 

[slowmover]

Boat trailer is 5-7% TW. (600-900/lbs at 13k; get true values from CAT Scale. These are placeholder numbers, but are the numerical baseline for all else).

Vertical height of ball such that trailer is riding dead-level after w/d hitch set (steer axle same weight as solo where truck load is same otherwise).

Trailer braking efficiency is where all four wheels are working well. Not forward axle only under hard stopping (single axle braking). Same for pickup. W/D helps with equalizing braking across both vehicles.

A “bad” hitch means only forward axles on both vehicles are actually effective in a hard stop.

The combined vehicle will stop faster to about 30-MPH than the pickup solo (test).

EU regulations require trailer-only brake effectiveness tested (see parameters).

Find a gravel or sandy road to have observer note any pre-mature brake lock per wheel (more of a drum problem, still . , .). It’s also a test for setting brake controller settings on any slippery roads as anti-lock not present is a problem.

Surge controllers their own tests needed.

.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I have around 10% tongue weight towing my boat and with it's long tongue it tows like a dream!!! Boat trailer is nice and level.

 

[EdZacko]

This is my 97 Ram and sailboat 13,400 as pictured approx 950 lb TW ---Looks like it could use a bit more EQ Spring Tension.

Will try for 1100 on new trailer next week.
Eddie

 

[NIsaacs]

after tens of thousands of miles have never had a problem with sway.

Eddie

I am thinking you have it under control. Enjoy your tow.

 

[John Jensen]

Go with what you've done in the past and what you call "normal procedure". When hooked up anything above level is a formula for a swaying trailer