Pros and cons of electric and hydraulic trailer brakes?

[T-Bone]

Hello,



I am looking at getting a 20 foot flat bed trailer and have very little, ok no understanding of trailer brakes. Can someone shed some light on pros and cons of electric and hydraulic trailer brakes? I’m interested in things like reliability, longevity, maintenance requirements, and stopping power. I wouldn’t be using the trailer on a daily basis and am concerned about how sitting (although inside the barn) would affect the brake system. Also, what controller works with which system?



Thanks,

T-Bone

 

[nps]

Generally hydraulic brakes are controlled by a master cylinder on the tongue. When the tow vehicle brakes, the tongue is compressed and the brakes are applied. No way to engage brakes without the TV braking first - and not just applying the brakes but the TV physically slowing down. And usually requires a 'pop' to get them to release after a stop. My experience is that they usually are put on rental trailers to eliminate the issue of an in-cab controller.



Electric brakes require a controller to activate. If your Ram had the tow package you already has a controller plug under the dash by the emergency brake - look for a light blue plug under there. You should have also got a pigtail connector that came with the truck. They can be adjusted for sensitivity and braking power. The brakes can be applied without the TV brakes with a manual override switch - good for stopping sway.



Electric brake controllers come in 3 types - pendulum types that sense decel and apply the brakes, time/ramp that apply brake current as a function of time since the brake pedal was pressed, and proportional braking that apply braking power as a function proportional to how much the TV brakes are applied. The last type is the best and most expensive. I personally have a time/ramp, wouldn't own the pendulum type, and am thinking of getting a proportional system like the Jordan Ultima. Brakesmart is reputed to be the best, but it is expensive and has had delivery problems on new orders.



As far as storage, I would be more concerned with hydraulic brakes (fluid contamination/seepage/etc. ) than electric.



Hope this helps.

 

[T-Bone]

Nps, Thanks for the quick reply! Exactly what I was looking for. Sounds like electric setup will work for me. I think they are cheaper, too. I have the trailer package and an in cab controller should not be an issue for me.



As for controllers, sometime back I think the Tekonsha Prodigy received some good comments. At around $130, this would be in my price range. How does this compare to the Jordan Ultima? The Brakesmart at around $350 might be a little much for me.



I am assuming that the controller handles disabling the trailer brake function when in reverse. Or, is this something else? My property is somewhat hilly and I can envision having to back uphill from time to time.



I’ve looked at a few flat bed trailers and stumbled on these guys. They offer a few “options” that sound interesting. As an upgrade, they offer 2 Electric brake axles and a break away kit. Would these be good to have? They also offer beefed up fenders (claimed as drive over) and floor extensions to bring the deck out to the edge of the fenders. Every trailer I’ve used has had banged up fenders and having some extra floor space sounds like it would help.



Any feedback would be appreciated!



Thanks,

T-Bone

 

[nps]

T-Bone,



The Prodigy is a pendulum style inertia controller. A good unit as long as you mount it level. I don't like to have the controller hanging under the dash - put mine on the side of the shift tower, hence no inertial type for me.



The Jordan hooks to the brake pedal and senses the amount of travel (displacement when applied) to determine how much brake force to apply. Needs adjusted at setup, but thereafter most claim to be touch-free.



The Brakesmart works similar to the Jordan - far more sophisticated though. It uses a pressure sensor that goes into the brake line thus giving the most accurate reading of how much braking force is being requested by the driver - more pressure in the brake lines - more brake force.



The problem with Brakesmart, other than $, is they have had some delivery problems. I'm also not a fan of cracking into the brake system. So the Jordan is looking right for me.



With electrics, backing is no problem.



The backing problem is only on the hydros due to the hydraulic cylinder collapsing when the tongue is 'pushed' when backing. The force exerted is just like when the TV tows. Hence you need to pin the tongue when backing.



I wouldn't buy a trailer that didn't have brakes on every axle. Don't know why they would offer it as an option - all RVs are standard. Just make sure you test them to ensure the factory hooked them all up and wired them properly.

 

[RustyJC]

In addition to the hydraulic "surge" brakes described, another option you may find is an electric-over-hydraulic brake system. In this system, an electric controller like the Jordan or Brakesmart sends a signal to the trailer where an electric pump or actuator produces hydraulic pressure and sends it through hydraulic lines to (typically) disc brakes at the wheels.



This system is finding its way onto high-line 5th wheels as an option and is also used on some larger gooseneck trailers.



Rusty

 

[AHuggard]

T-Bone, The prodigy is a great control as the other psot indicated. I use one on a dump-bed trailer which I often haul 5. 5 tons of rock. I would recomend that you use #10 wire where ever you can and enven replace the wiiring in the trailer to the brakes. For very short runs 12 is ok but 10 just gives you a little more juice to the brakes.



Actually the instructions with the prodigy controller indicate that you can install the controller at some angle like 65 degrees or so. The instructions tell you the limit. Intutively you would think that it should be level but it doesn't have to be as the electronics conpensate for the tilt as well as compensate for hills when you are driving.

The prodigy also has a selectable boost level for unloaded and heavy loads. Except for the trailer tonge mounted hydralic contollers, i could not find the kind that we used to have that mounted under the dash and was electric from there but driven off the masted cylinder. By the way, I agree, brakes on both axles and heavy fenders. Also, don't forget to check and adjust the trailer brekes. Few have self adjusting ones as you don't back up enough to make them cost effective.



Al

 

[WCPoe]

Prodigy controller

T-Bone, I also have the Prodigy and pull a 20 foot car trailer. I used to have a time ramp based controller but every time I headed down my gravel drive, (trailer empty), I would plow my drive with the trailer wheels. This happened because I would invariably forget to turn down the controller. Remember the time ramp base units activate as soon as you touch the pedal and activate the brake lights. I have appreciated the Prodigy, the install was easy, it plugged directly into the underdash receptacle after I purchased an adapter cord, ($10. 95 I believe). The Prodigy doesn't have to be level, I think the instructions allow up to about 40 degrees of tilt. The Prodigy has a feature that will allow you to bump up the braking force 3 levels. Unfortunately I'm not very familiar with the other type. Hope this helps.

 

[RustyJC]

Having used both the ramped time-based (Reese Brakeman I) and inertial (Tekonsha Sentinel) controllers in the past, I would highly recommend a true proportional controller such as the Jordan Ultima 2020 or, for more $$$, the BrakeSmart. The latter 2 controllers provide trailer braking that's directly proportional to what your right foot is doing on the truck's brake pedal. The ramped time-based and inertial controllers don't.



Rusty

 

[T-Bone]

Thanks for all the help here, folks! Greatly appreciated.



Sounds like electric brakes on both axels and maybe the Jordan Ultima would work for me. Any comments on the break away thing? I know I’m probably over analyzing things here, but want to get the best set up for me on the first time around if possible.



Thanks,

T-Bone

 

[brods]

Check your state laws. Some states require break away devices for trailers above certain gvws. The break away kit is supposed to actuate the trailer brakes if the trailer separates from the tow vehicle. A cable or cord attached to the tow rig pulls on a switch on the trailer tongue to turn on the brakes. It only works if you keep the small battery on the trailer charged.



There is a theory that one axle without brakes will keep the trailer straight should all the other wheels lock up. Some states require all axles have brakes some don't, again check your state laws.



By having an electric controller with a manual override, you can use just the trailer brakes to help bring things under control during a sway event. You WILL appreciate this should you ever need it.

 

[T-Bone]

brods, Thanks for the tip on the state laws. I found this for Colorado. So, it looks like I'll need brakes on both axels and the break away set up.



Trailer Brakes:

Part §393. 42 requires brakes on all wheels of all towed vehicles weighing more than 3,000 pounds. This part also requires those towed vehicles that are required to have brakes to have a breakaway brake system to apply the service brakes of the towed vehicle in the event of the towed vehicle becoming detached from the towing vehicle. Colorado Revised Statute §42- 4- 223 has the same requirement.



Good point about the electric controller with a manual override. More food for thought.



T-Bone

 

[terrywerm]

I have also used a number of different types of brake controllers, and so far I like the Jordan the best. Fully proportional, you can just about set it and forget it. Ya, you still have to adjust the trailer brakes themselves though.



The Jordan Ultima also has a manual button (most controllers do) but one of my favorite features allows you to disconnect the actuator cable at the brake pedal when you are not towing. Saves wear and tear on the controller.



As for the brakes on each axle, I wouldn't be without them, not to mention the fact that most states require them. Breakaway systems are a good thing too, but as one of the other guys said, you have to make sure that you keep the battery charged, so it is one more maintenance item to perform regularly, but well worth the trouble.

 

[mbadger]

I just ordered a 14 ft. flat bed trailer for hauling quads and a motor cycle with a hydraulic brake system. I will pull this behind my pickup or trailer. I don't want to have another electric brake controler for the trailer when I pull behind my trailer. I live in Montana and was told I need a brake control for each trailer. I have the hydraulic brake set up on my boat trailer and it works just fine except once when it was about 0 degrees and the brakes froze set up. My fault when I didn't relieve the pressure when I put the trailer away.



Mike

 

[AMink]

I haven't used the Jordans or other high end controllers, but have the Prodigy now after having an older pendulum style. Night and day! The Prodigy has worked great, it isn't level (doesn't have to be, see above mentions) and applies brakes smoothly and effectively. Boat trailers seem to have the hydraulic brakes. I didn't like them at all. When coming down a hill, it seemed like the brakes would drag. You could cook on the rims at the bottom! You also have to disconnect a switch or put a pin in (can't remember) to keep the brakes from activating while backing. The Prodigy does work in reverse, if needed.