PRXB took a dump 18 months/17,000 miles

[Matt400]

My Compressor quit working, is there a better one that lasts longer?
PB will sell me a new replacement same as I have or update me to a more robust compressor with a 20% discount since I only got 18 months.
Either way puts me over 200 when you add shipping.

 

[seafish]

This is an excellent, continuous duty compressor. Of course, you have to pay for it.



01. ExtremeAire 12 volt Compressor



or this one--



07. ExtremeAire Magnum



If all you are doing is running your PXRB, then probably on of these Viair are plenty good and much less expensive. They have been making them for a long time--



VIAIR 400 Air Compressor, VIAIR 400 Compressor, Viair 400C, Viair 400H, Viair 420C, Viair 450C, VIAIR 450H, VIAIR 460C Air Compressors



Also, some people love AirZenith. They had some problems with bad bearings early on, but my understanding is that is a thing of the past.



::: Welcome to Air-Zenith :::



My preference is for the ExtremeAire.

 

[Grizzly]

Will the Compressor on the PacBrake last longer if you turn it off when not towing the 5er?

 

[Matt400]

Will the Compressor on the PacBrake last longer if you turn it off when not towing the 5er?

It could help protect the compressor if you were to develop an air leak. I like to cycle my brake once in a while even when not towing so I don't hook up to the RV and THEN find out it doesn't work.

This is an excellent, continuous duty compressor. Of course, you have to pay for it.



01. ExtremeAire 12 volt Compressor

Pay... I guess, whew thats double what the updated PB kit is.

 

[seafish]

Don't forget that continuous duty compressors also draw more amps and are generally larger so are more difficult to mount in a safe/dry location, which also has alot to do with longevity. However, it can be done and they are still my preference for longevity and servicavility.



Check out this link for more TDR info, and also note JKloppes post about pm for a better price on the ExtremAire.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...smission/214554-pacbrake-compressor-dead.html

 

[Matt400]

Thanks C. Fish for the links, interesting reading.

The new compressor PB uses now is a PumaAir and they have a retro-fit kit available to convert over, looks pretty complete here: http://pacbrake.com/PDF/L6043.PDF



I ordered it direct from PB, I was 6mos. past warranty and got 20% off so at least its something and I know they can't be expected to eat parts from their vendors past warranty. Looks bad on Viair's products plus they loose PB as a customer.

 

[Grizzly]

It could help protect the compressor if you were to develop an air leak. I like to cycle my brake once in a while even when not towing so I don't hook up to the RV and THEN find out it doesn't work.



Pay... I guess, whew thats double what the updated PB kit is.

Thanks Matt. I do kick it on now and them when not towing. Only had mine since Oct 09.

 

[wcjp]

My Pacbrake compressor also died. Eventually bought the Air Zenith. It's not cheap. Also had to buy special wiring with 70amp protection. I use the exhaust brake even when empty. I've run the Air Zenith for 20minutes to air up a friends large air mattress. My infrared heat temp gun found the compressor to be at 85deg. I don't worry about the compressor. Also, when upgrading avoid the Via air plastic line. It hardens over time.

 

[CDonaldson]

I have about 30K on my PacBrake compressor. So far, I have not had many problems with it, but I HAVE had problems with the air hose connector leaking air from time to time. I properly torqued it and I believe that the overall engine vibrations are the culpret with regard to it loosening and leaking. I finally removed it from the compressor, ran a line with a shutoff valve in it to a remote location up front behind the bumper for easier access/use. The shutoff serves nicely to stopping any air loss that happens from a small leak which would result in a continuous operation of the compresssor, of course, shortening it's life considerably.



I got out my infrared heat temp gun and found that the operating temps were MUCH higher than 85*s wcjp has, sitting on top of the engine, more like 130-140*s, but that could be the difference in the Washington climate and the New Mexico climate in overall ambient operating temps. I also do not like the fact that the hood insulating materials makes a little contact with the compressor. That kind of defeats the rubber vibration dampening at the mounting points and could result in creating a solid mounting environment for the compressor, which is not good for it.



In any event, I think I am going to move the compressor somewhere else that would be a little cooler and that has less vibrations, that constant engine heat will surely shorten the compressor lifespan and the vibrations, well, yet to be determined as to what problems they could cause other than loosening connections.



Since more and more people are talking about compressor failures with much less mileage than I have on mine, I guess it's time to seek having a spare just in case I'm out somewhere towing and need the brake. I live in the mountains, the brake is a necessity for grades, I tow heavy, it also assists in towing needs. By the way, I never have turned it off, I run it loaded or unloaded, great for overall braking and save in the costs of brake pad replacements and rotor wear.





CD

 

[wcjp]

I got out my infrared heat temp gun and found that the operating temps were MUCH higher than 85*s wcjp has, sitting on top of the engine, more like 130-140*s, but that could be the difference in the Washington climate and the New Mexico climate in overall ambient operating temps.



CD

Mine is also 100% duty cycle. One time i found on the Pacbrake website a remote location. I think it's under the passenger side battery tray. Supposed to be alot cooler. There's also different mounting instructions on the BD website. I think the BD uses the same compressor.

 

[CDonaldson]

Thanks for that info, I will go check out the BD website. Moving the compressor is on my list of things to do before the summer heat plays a role again. I was thinking about mounting it under the battery tray, there is plenty of room for it. I also was thinking about mounting it in my front bumper, I have an aftermarket bumper with plenty of room there as well and it would be weatherproof or could be made to be.





CD

 

[Matt400]

I have to admit I really like the engine mount for the reason of isolation from the frame & body. Will be interesting to see how long the updated PumaAir lasts.

 

[CDonaldson]

You can easily mount your compressor on isolators and take any shock/vibration out you need to, there are several companies that sell good isolators. It's not so easy to shield all the engine heat out of the engine mounted equasion.



I looked at the BD website, they mount their compressor on the outby side of the frame on the right side close by their brake/turbo above the inner fenderwell insert. That would be an OK place, but I think Iam just going to make a mounting rack under the air box. I think a small battery tray would mount under there without any problems and be a good support/protection for the compressor. Outside of needing to service or replace the compressor it is really a mount/hookup and almost forget it. Pulling the intake box is a 5 min job.



CD

 

[Shadrach]

How about this? ::Kilby Enterprises:: I bought one to install on my truck for my brake. Shadrach

 

[Matt400]

I mounted one under the air box once on a different 3rd gen using fat insulators and it was never as quiet as the engine mount. I am not so sure heat was the problem with mine, maybe I will pull it apart just for a look. The compressor runs hotter than the area its mounted to.

 

[wcjp]

How about this? ::Kilby Enterprises:: I bought one to install on my truck for my brake. Shadrach

Kilby's are awesome. Comes down to cost and time to install. The York compressor should last a long time.