Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) pulled out plate and !@#%$

[CATCRACKER]

i need some help guys. i pulled out my plate and reinstalled things incorrectly so when i cranked the truck it was leaking oil so i shut it off and tightened the bolts up and in the process i sheared one off in the pump..... so i welded a nut on top of the broken bolt put things back together correctly this time and boom no start. check the shut off solenoid and it is not lifting like it should. i held up the solenoid and it crank right up. what did i do the solenoid looks like it is brand new. one thing i will say i can not get the bolt back on that is on the back of the pump that holds on the the start stop solenoid bracket. i figure in not really needed but maybe it is. where can i get a new bracket mine is bent and i cant get it to line up.



truck is sitting as we speak so i need some help.



afte cranking for a while i touched the solenoid and it was super hot.



help

 

[JGheen]

I'm confused....

Ok, you said you pulled out the fuel plate and re-installed it incorrectly?? How did you do that?? Why did you take it out and where is it leaking oil from?? That bolt that you broke off didn't go into the pump did it?? I thought that is what you said... .



As for the hot solenoid, not sure. Check the relay and the the solenoid connection. Maybe something got myteriously crossed or connected wrong. I haven't noticed mine getting hot after a drive but I am sure it doesn't get as hot as you described, being I have taken mine off numerous times to adjust the fuel plate for different power levels right after a test drive. It sounds like you figured out the no start issue with the solenoid, but check all the connections and the relay for "not normal" temp of it.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

FWIW:



You don't need the solenoid to make your truck run.



The 'default' position for the shutdown lever will allow your truck to start and run just fine. The only thing you'll have to do is pop the hood and hit the lever by hand to shut her down. This will work until you fix the solenoid arrangement or install a manual control cable.



Make sure you take up the 'slack' where the solenoid bracket used to be... with washers... . or just use shorter bolts. As you have found out... if the AFC housing is loose... she'll leak.



The bolts/screws are all metric - 6mm standard thread. I used some allen screws on my '98.



Matt

 

[CATCRACKER]

for some stupid reason i installed the solenoid bracket under the afc housing (it was getting late yea i know how stupid but hey i am learning and it is costing me the injectors went in with no problem. cranked the truck then saw it was leaking and figured out my mistake. took it all apart again. then put it back together (everything except that 2" bolt that points forward on the back of the pump... cant get it to line up). once i got it back together the truck would not fire. now the solenoid will not pull up to the run position. this is a new solenoid and bracket i did pull on the solenoid pretty hard out of frustration. i will not suck up. if this is a dead solenoid i am putting in the manual lever shutdown. i would rather gets this one working. i dont think it has to do with wiring b/c it worked perfect before i messed with it now maybe i overextend something in the solenoid by manually pulling the arm down on it. ?????? who was the F^*(*$% idiot who designed this bracket system i would love to kick his a@#

 

[JGheen]

That sucks about the re-installation..... too many beers??(J/K)



Yeah, I bet something may have got screwed up in the solenoid when you pull it down. Not sure how much stress that thing can take. I ordered some custom parts for a manual shutdown cable, just don't have the time to get it all together right now. My solenoid is working fine, but I am sure it will give out one day and time for the real, flawless way of shutting the fuel down. That's the way to go, don't spend $200 from Larry B's or even the absolute, a$$ raping price of $400 from the dealer. I can't beleive they get away with those ridiculous prices sometimes.

 

[CATCRACKER]

i will need some help with the manual shutoff as you guys can see i am inclined to have brains farts some times... ... . you are right the budlite did not help just cuased me to act like a bull in a computer room. end result cotton mouth, busted knuckles, broke truck and hurt pride not to mention laughing friends. will this discourage me hell no b/c i have this site to back me up thanks guys any more suggestions i am not out of the woods yet!

 

[Andy Redmond]

Cat:



Gheen is hard on you, he thinks all Cajun's repair thinks while eating crawfish with a beer buzz!



You likely have the solenoid in a bind.



Snug the afc housing up with the top two fasteners (Top left and top right).



Then connect the solenoid to the lever, install clip/hitch pin. Shift the solenoid bracket to the right and back. Loosely install the capscrew on the afc at the bottom left. Some of the replacement solenoids have the spacer that is not tack welded causing you to go for the pencil magnet and holding your mouth just right!



Start the longer horizontal bolt bolt in the back. A 1/4 drive. . 8mm deep socket and 1. 5" or 3" ext. with a finger spinner is a nice help!



Get it started good. . now install and tighten both lower afc housing bolts (bottom right and left), then snug up the bolt on the back side and tighten it. In the future, loosen but do not remove the horizontal solenoid bracket bolt, after the two lower afc cover bolts are removed it will hinge enough to left you slide the afc housing out.



Always chk. and make sure the o-ring that seals the afc housing to the pump has not twisted or fallen off.



Now send "Budrow and Tibedow" for da be-e ar!



Andy

 

[dseabaugh]

are you sure you have both wires back on the solenoid?

 

[CMorrow]

As for the broken bolt, use a extractor to remove it. If the threads are buggered up, you can get a Helli coil kit from Napa and put a new tread in it. I Conaned one of my cover bolts to my AFC housing and did the same trick. it seals just fine now. If you remove the rear cover plate to get at the governor arm for adjustment, theres a rubber seal that needs to be placed just right to keep oil from leaking. It took me several tries to get mine to seal. Good luck.

 

[CATCRACKER]

yea just pull the plate that sounds simple right. i though the injectors would be hard and pulling the plate would be an after thought. if i would have installed back the 1st time correctly i would not be in this predicament b/c the 1st time i got everything back together the solenoid was working fine but during that 2nd reinstall s/m happened and i have not figured out what i did. if i really need the truck can i just zip tie the solenoid in the up position and just cut it when i want to stop. i know the solenoid is getting juice b/c when i tried to crank the truck (before i had figured out it was the solenoid) it got really hot. and i was drinking beer and shooting the breeze with my buddy 1st mistake. we are in the process of rebuilding my d3 cat and i thought i could pull the plate as an after thought boy was i wrong now my truck is just sitting there... ... . did i mention that the solenoid is a terrible design i will keep you guys posted.

thanks for the info andy i am going to try to reinstall. do i have to install the 2" bolt that sticks into the back of the pump b/c its not right now. is that a problem? will oil leak from this? i can't get it to line up b/c the bracket is bent out of alignment.



anyone have this happen please resond thanks



dave

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by Andy Redmond

Cat:



Gheen is hard on you, he thinks all Cajun's repair thinks while eating crawfish with a beer buzz!





Andy

I wasn't being hard on him. I have had my fair share of brain farts when I drink. I said I was just kidding, ***** happens!

 

[CATCRACKER]

Gheen,



if you only knew how right you are! even though i dont live in cajun country we still like to drink our beer and eat some crawfish. the part of louisiana i live in is more like alabama or mississippi than say around breaux bridge, labaedeville, panckiville, bayou sorrell, bayou pigeon, thibideaux, houma etc. but we do eat our far share of mudbugs. i would say for the last 5 weekends we have boiled avg 80lbs a weekend and drank many case of good old beer. while doing this always talking diesel. when we get together this is what sits in the drive way (my friend trucks): 5-24v dodge cummins, 2-03/04 dodge cummins, 3-12v (two 1st gens). 10dodges and these are all my close buddies. dodge ought to treat me nice i am the major reason for this and so is a 1st gen that has way over 500K that has pulled loads (equipment only) of 28000,



not one ford and just one maxipad



back to the fuel shutoff if i cant get it figured out i just contacted the international place and they have all of the parts. i need some help on how to install a manual lever switch as you can see sometimes i can be mechanically challenged. all of the parts with tax came to $72. 26 not bad for added reliability. i have always said this truck was really a tractor now it will opperate like one



i am going to add a new acronym to this board SFM which stands for sorry for mispellings. and i do this b/c as you see i post alot and dont have time to proof read... ... no not even once. i type and hit send. this board said i joined in 02 but i posting on here way longer than that





so SFM

 

[CATCRACKER]

pulled solenoid out! priced out the manual pull lever from international $74 for a permanent fix so its a done deal. i like the fact of not having solenoid. i pulled solenoid out and put 12 v to it it would not fire. thanks for the help

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I like my manual shutdown on my '94.



If the solenoid craps the bed on the '98... it's gonna get converted as well.



Matt

 

[Andy Redmond]

Cat:



The bolt on the back is critical, as vibration will cause it to shear the bottom two afc bolts over time. Then you might have to heli-coil the gov. housing. Its more fun if you get paid to repair it I assure you!



Your manual cable is a fix too! Good luck

Andy

 

[CATCRACKER]

here are the part #'s with up to date prices they have all of these in stock. parts #'s came from charlan



1 299399C1 Clamp $. 77

1 109420R2 Swivel $9. 30

1 324877C91 Cable $47. 05

1 371146C1 Knob $4. 73

1 436747 Screw $. 25

1 363423C1 Nut $2. 40

1 370782C1 Screw $1. 95



total with tax is 72. 26



save somewhere so when you need them you will have them enjoy