2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pulling front alxe help

[HDarga]

I need some help.



I'm trying to change my ball joints. I have them seperated, the calipers are off , the tie rod end is off and the axle nut is off.



How do i get the axle out of the hub, I guess I'd call it. I took the 4 bolts off that look like they hold the hub on. Do I need to use a puller or something?



Thanks in advance.

 

[Joe G.]

Put the 4 bolts back in. Not all the way so there is some slack between the bolt head and the hub. Hit the bolts. It should push the axle out of the hub. If that doesn't work get a short rod and use the power steering to push on the bolt heads. If it's still stuck get a big slide hammer.

 

[Jeff Knight]

A puller will pull the hub assembly apart. Someone was using a socket and extention on the 4 bolts and using the steering to press the hub assembly out. Hope this helps. Jeff

 

[I-6DZL]

Where in MI are you located ?



I always put an old junk socket over top of the bolt head (while screwed into the bearing housing about 3 to 4 threads) and use my air hammer. If you don't have an air hammer, use the socket and extension setup as stated above.



Curtis

 

[HDarga]

I'm near Capac, MII



tried pounding on the bolts as stated above and it didn't budge. I'm thinking of useing the puller and then maybe in combination of pounding on the bolts that will split it. But that's going to have to wait till tomorrow.

 

[Jschafer]

Don't pull on the bearing if it comes apart and probably will it will cost $200 for the hub assembly

the above methods work for driving it out.

When you reassemble use anti seize or silicone on the hub before putting back in and you wont have this problem next time.

 

[I-6DZL]

Do you understand how to use the power steering, a socket and an extension to try and break the rusty bearing assembly loose from the knuckle ? that method should have popped that bad boy rihgt loose.



put a socket (barely fits over head of bolt) on an extension ( not sure how long) and thread the bolts in roughly 3 to 4 threads, start vehicle and turn sterring wheel while having the socket on bolt, and the extension touching the upper control arm. See what i mean ?



Good luck

PM me if you would ilke to talk about it over fone.

Curtis

 

[blackram99]

I just changed mine a couple weeks ago, I did'nt know this till I talked to a dodge Mech. and he told me not to take the bearing nut off or even loosen it, he said you will mess up the preload in the bearing if you break it loose with the bearing nut off. So I put mine back on and tightened it back to specs,took out the 4 bolts and broke mine loose by useing a punch and a big *** hammer..... put the punch on the ears where the 4 bolts go in... ... I had to go down through where the opening is on the rotors ( between the webing ) and also where the top of the caliper sits, It took a lot of time and hammering... . I did not know about the trick with the sockets and extensions... ... . WISH I DID..... but was not aware of this site then... . I shined mine up like a mirror got rid of all the rust and never seized it like there was no tomorrow... . did that where the ball joints go also... . I used a ball pean hammer to pound the old ones out, had no problems there, came right out, and I used a ball joint press to put the new ones back in worked well... Next time I should be able to change mine in about 2hrs. from start to finish as long as the never seize trick works.....

 

[HDarga]

Yep, I understand about the power steering method. I didn't try it yesterday because I had the tie rod end off. I wiil try that this morning as soon as the kid wakes up to turn the steering wheel.

 

[JFaughn]

If you have a place that you can rent tools, see if they have a wheel puller,it has three legs that are held on to the wheel with studs&nuts 1 type uses a screw and pushs off the axial[ after the nut is off] the other uses a slide hammer and can pull the hub and axial at the same time without removing the nut , while your there ,if you don'nt already have one get the tool to press the ball joints in and out, sounds like you haven't done this before so it could take 6-8 hrs. if you were set up like shop 1 1/2 to 3hrs. ,the right tools make the job fun, its easy to make more problums if you work without them.

 

[HDarga]

can't believe this

Ok, I got the puller from AZ, but it was too small. I remembered my Dad had a big puller. I picked it up while I was over there for Easter. I just tried it, and it still won't come off. This is a big puller too. The 4 bolts are the only thing that holds this on, right? And yes, I do have the axle nut off.



I broke my socket yesterday while trying the steering method. I'll pick up another tomorrow and try useing both. The only other thing I can think of is useing heat. I know I'll probably ruin the bearing.

 

[MACHINEST]

You may want to soak it with PB Blaster,and Diesel Fuel,I put a socket on the end of the bolts,after backing them off a bit,I made myself a 9 lb slide hammer with a rod,heat treated the end of it,where it comes in contact with the socket... . There a bear to get apart... . Rust big time.....

 

[Jschafer]

I would leave the axle nut ON if you are going to use a puller on the hub. yes only 4 bolts hold it, but it is a machine fit and rust has tightend everything up.

As stated above They are a BEAR

 

[MACHINEST]

HDarga,To give you some kind of idea how hard some of them come apart,i read on here where two Dodge Techs,worked 1 day on one side and one day on the other side,with a 10 LB sledge hammer,my first side i worked on it for 6 hours,soaking with every thing i could find,i soaked the other side,drove it for a week,and made up a 9Lb slide hammer to whammy on the 4 bolt heads with a socket on the bolt heads,it took about 1. 5 hours,if you air and a die grinder,get your self a 1/4 arbor about 60 grit emery flap wheel,flap the hole and flap the outside dia. of the bearing housing,then never seize and silicon it... Hope this helps.....