Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Pump being rebuilt..specs. to calabrate

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Anyone have a Dodge Manual?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) what do you think??

Status
Not open for further replies.
looking forinput. I removed my stock injector pump from my 96 auto, took it down to be rebuilt by a good deisel shop. I am haveing them put 191 d-valves in to give a little more fuel to the marine injectors that i installed previously. HERE'S THE QUESTION: shop wants to no what to calibrate my pump to? Specifications???? I said huh? apparently they have certian bosch specs, which i do not understand, they need to calibrate it to. Spec info to tell them would be GREATLY appreciated. .

LOOKING FOR LOW END HIGHER BOOST PSI. AND 1300 - 2000rpm powerband.

thanks guys,
 
If they are offering to set to whatever set of specs you want, outside of Bosch's recommended settings for that pump, tell then to just set to put out as much fuel as realistically possible yet keep the barrels balanced within Bosch's typical tolerances. You can control the actual amount of fueling with the torque plate. But let it be able to push out all you can handle!



Go for it!



J.
 
DItto what he said. With the AFC you can do alot of adjustment. I would have them go for max fuel with the stock delivery valves, unless you need new ones. Depends what your going to do with the pump.
 
I agree also especially on the delivery valves part...complete waste to put in . 191's when you have . 181's already. Now if you were putting in . 22's or laser cuts then I'd understand.

If you want a good upgrade go to citydiesel.net and buy they're delivery valves. They are almost the same price as 191's but flow alot more for that extra $20 they are.
 
thanks guys for all the input. They are going to set it about 20% above specs. They said it will deliver the fuel i want and spool the turbo down at low end. (afc is going to be adjusted by them with a diferent shim?). Also told them to set the pump at 15. 5 degrees timing advance @ engine and lock the pin. And yes, am going to check the timing once the pump is installed. Thanks for all the excellent input.
 
here's an update:UNFREAKIN BELEIVEABLE!!!! this thruck has never, in the past 398,000 miles, run this great!!! The 191 d-valves did the trick and got rid of the bucking between 1200rpm and 1800rpm while under load. Timing at 15. 5(double checked) and the egt's don't hardly ever aproach 1200. Boost is right around 5psi, and instant to 28 from there. This is with the stock plate, and not slid forward yet. Just wanted to five you a followup.
 
good to hear man, like I said thats the shop im most likely going with for my future pump needs. Were they able to set the pump timing so it was at 15. 5 with the pin in the pump or what? If you can give me a rough cost id appreciate it (pm me if you like) so I can see when I can afford to go ahead with it. :-{}

Thanks, Jim
 
They set the pump timing and locked the pin so that i would have 15. 5 @ the crank. All i did was lock the engine pin, put the pump on. Here's a little trick they showed me. After installng the pump, remove the pump lock pin. Place a mirror below/ to the side of the pump so that you can see in the inspection port. You wll see the alignment pin. Watch the pin as you put the lock washer and nut on the pump and tighten it. It is very easy to tell if the shaft accidently rotates while tightning the nut, as it did with me. Just turn it back, reatach the gear and nut. good to go. good luck.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top