Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Pump work, and power expectations?

[Trusty Steed]

I need some advice.



A very reputable diesel Tech suggested some work be done to my truck in order to increase performance without sacrificing my trans, or engine life. He suggested pulling the pump and working it over. He also said he would adjust the govener, probably similar to the spring mod's, and also would adjust the timing. Seems like retuneing a detuned motor. I really trust this fella.



What kind of gains could I expect from this mod, providing I do not do injectors, air intake mod's, or exhaust work? I was not sure how much I will notice as with the stock trans and TC either. Has anyone had any experience with this type of work on a near stock truck? I don't want to kill the TC or abuse the motor at this time. If the trans tanks, I will likely go all the way with mod's. Til then only minor bombing.



Any thoughts and suggestions would be much appreciated.



Thanks

Jay

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Has he given you a cost estimate for this work?



We can do a lot of "Kentucky Windage" to try and figure out what he has in mind if we know what he's gonna charge you... . OR how many hours he says it will take to get it done.



All I'll say is that with basic tools and a few aftermarket parts, you can make your truck run like a bat out of heck... . for pretty short coin.



Matt

 

[kentdiesel]

If the pump is in good working condition I see no need to remove it to change Gov. springs and/or a Fuel Plate. Both are simple on truck procedures that give impresssive results. Timing is done with the pump on the truck also.

I'm not putting your Diesel Tech down. On some diesels the pump would have to come off to increase fueling. Luckily, mild pump upgrades on a 12V Cummins can be done on the truck.



Check out this website :



http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits_trial.htm



Kent

 

[Trusty Steed]

Sorry for being so Vague.



Problem is, as he was telling me some of the stuff, I was not exactly sure what he ment. I was not seriously considering doing these changes because I feared nukeing the trans, but as he kept talking, he said it should not be a problem for the trans, or require a pyrometer.



He said it would cost in the 650 range. I told him I wanted to have a higher range of rpm's, low end grunt, and not jepordize the engine, or trans. So this is when he began to make suggestions. Originally I wanted him to take care of the KDP as he is reccomended by the site, but after talking I thought... Hey how about more power.



I know he said he would pull the pump, adjust the govener for higher rpm's, and more power thoughout it's range. He said he often sees them come in with timeing that is retarded from the factory. He said he would check and set the valves as needed. He said he would set it properly, and I assume make it jive with anything else he was doing. I "thought" he said he would do something to the pump like boreing something out? What I heard him say was that he was going to increase the pump's flow by altering the pump in some way. He also said that these mod's would likely improve mileage engine life, and estimated gains in the 50 hp and 100 ft/lb's range.



I realize they say you can get this kind of power from a plate, but wondered if he was making changes that are safer, and in some ways superior to the plate. I hope this info helps some.



Thanks so much fellas.



Jay

 

[guntruck]

Well just to let you know my truck is all stock except for 5" exhaust, thats all I had and thats custom made so it cost me nothing, from a friend. I just rplaced my p7100 with one from a 96 truck. Brad over at Ponci diesel sold it to me, its a 180 vs a 160 which was on my truck and he slid the plate for me in the pump. Needless to say after having it put on there, in my eyes was a tremendous difference. It seems to lack in midrange but when the converter locks up in OD it really really pulls hard to believe it could pull that hard from 60-70 mph but it does. The only draw back it seems to jump a little only in OD when I hit it, Kind of like the wheel hop you get when you hit it in a car, Brad said it was the TC locking and unlocking very rapidly which was causing the jolting so I guess i'll be upgrading that next. ANyway if you do just the pump on a stock truck you WILL ber impressed. Hope this helps.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Just a TST kit can give you more than 50 hp gain.

 

[JohnE]

Jay



Any hp/torque mods should be second to a pryometer install. You would really be surprised what "tweaking" a stock pump can do to the EGTs.



I'm familiar with "tweaking" from a pump shop. Hopefully, they will reset your timing to CPL measured the correct way, at the injector with electronic spill port timing. This will be normally be higher than traditional injector spill port or plunger height methods. Be prepared for a very fast idle if they are adjusting your stock springs. Another trick is adjusting the throttle stop. A nudge of the plate usually completes the job.



I assume you have an auto transmission. The low end grunt you want is hard on an auto. Increased engine speed can shorten the transmsission life especially with added power. The 47 RE transmission will not shift at higher RPM just because the engine can get there. If you drive throught the torque converter efficiency it will appear the shifts points are higher, but you may end up destoying the TC lock-up clutch or O/D unit due to the difference in rpm between engine and transmission.



Unless this tech feels you need a pump balancing there is no reason to pull it.

IMHO, go for a timing increase and a TST plate.

 

[bmoeller]

Gauges first!

As far as fuel is concerned, I have only put in a TST #10 plate. That, along with my other airflow mods that are in sig, it is a superb combo. My highest EGT (pre turbo) I have been able to hit, is 900* WOT. With 30 some psi/boost (It may be more, but only have a 30psi. gauge. ), EGT has actually come down a little. Haven't yet checked the timing (next on the list), and have no plans at this point, to do a GSK. My truck doesn't defuel 'til 26-2700RPMs, it is fine with me, don't need to go any higher w/4. 10 gears. I rarely go over the 65-70mph range, and rarely tow at highway speeds (usually pulling farm equipment).



I got to play a little with the truck today. I have a hill near me, that before, with stock plate, I could only max out at 60mph (this is after having to go around a curve, at the bottom, at 45mph) at the top of the hill. 20psi boost, max; 950*EGT.



With the new plate (stock position), it hit 65mph at roughly a hair less than halfway up, and topped out at 70-75mph before I went over the top. 30 (> ?)boost, 900* EGT.



Needless to say, I'm happier than a pig in slop. Oo.



If you need a little more power, just slide the plate forward a little more. You won't be disappointed. Cost less than half of what you were quoted. Did the install myself.