Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Pusher Pump system design

[wlowe]

I'm in the process of designing/procuring all the parts necessary for a pusher pump install (Carter 4600). An old post stated that this pusher pump would be a blockage if it failed so my plan is to use a bypass line around the pump with a check valve inline. My dilemma is what will happen if the OEM pump fails, will it be a blockage to the pusher pump? If so, my thoughts for a remedy would be to install a bypass line around the OEM pump with a manual shutoff ball valve that can be opened to allow the pusher to bypass the OEM pump if it fails.

Anyone use this design? Any ideas/comments?



Thanks,

Bill

 

[DennyDay]

I used you method on my '99 and in addition to a bypass around the auxillary pusher pump I also installed a ball valve in the bypass and left it in the closed position and pulled the fuse out of the wire to the auxillary pump. When the OEM lift pump failed, (found during a filter change) I simply opend the ball valve and inserted a fuse, primed the fuel filter and drove another 90,000 miles. Never did put a bypass around or disconnect the OEM pump.



Good luck,

Denny

 

[Bob4x4]

Why not just eliminate the factory pump and run a higher volumn/pressure "pusher". Keep it simple... ..... less to fail and easier to repair on the road. One of the advantages of a diesel is they are simpler,why loose that advantage?



Bob

 

[Stefan Kondolay]

Bill when your doing your build up, if you need any areoquip style fittings let me know, I can help you out on prices (better than jegs or summit).

 

[DieselMinded]

Parts to base the setup on:



1 Carter 4600 pump



1 Radio Shack relay and relay socket -20 amp contacts



1 Cummins LP extender cable to splice added relay control lead into



length of pair of leads to carry power from added relay to pusher pump



1 fused lead to go to battery positive post



2 hose barb fittings in/out of pusher



1 foot of diesel fuel 3/8 inch hose for splicing into fuel line



4 hose clamps



That's about it!



Enjoy!



Gary

Contact: TDR Member Gary - K7GLD



DM

 

[wlowe]

Bill when your doing your build up, if you need any areoquip style fittings let me know, I can help you out on prices (better than jegs or summit).

Thanks Stefan, I'll keep that in mind.

Why not just eliminate the factory pump and run a higher volumn/pressure "pusher". Keep it simple... ..... less to fail and easier to repair on the road. One of the advantages of a diesel is they are simpler,why loose that advantage?

Bob4x4, not a bad idea, could carry a spare pump for a quick swapout if needed.



Thanks to all that responded.



Bill

 

[CumminsFarmer]

Hey guys, I put a Carter 4600 in front of my fuel tank as well. I did NOT put a bypass line around the pump and here's why. When the OEM pump fails, the VP-44 will continue pulling fuel thru the failed pump until it burns itself up. Im pretty sure the OEM pump will pull thru the pusher for a while. I have a f. p. gauge and will be able to tell when the pusher fails. So I'll replace it IF and WHEN it fails.

 

[kkmckinney]

I have a BD auxiliary lift pump for 5,000 miles and my OEM











I have a BD auxiliary lift pump on my 2001 truck that also has a Westach 15psi fuel gauge. My OEM Cummins lift pump failed - The fuel pressure reading tells you that you are using the auxiliary lift pump. I carry a spare OEM pump ($140) and had a diesel shop install it. The fuel indicator than went back to the normal reading. You can avoid an expensive repair if you use this set up.

Ken

 

[PatrickCampbell]

i kind of started this but never finished it:

http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/fuelsystem/

 

[R-N-R]

If the Carter pump dies with the vanes in the closed position it will not pass fuel through it, the VP will not be able to suck through it either. However this seems to be a rare occurrence. I put a bypass with ball valve on the frame pump and not on the factory location. A complete solution is to have a bypass on both, but most likely this is not necessary.

 

[RHARVEY]

My wifes truck must be that rare occurance! When we bought the truck it has a Carter push pump on it. The push pump started failing and did shut the fuel off! I replaced the pump with another Carter... and in just a little while it did the same thing. That was enough of the push pump design... that was when I did the FASS system!

Another issue that I ran into while having push pump issues was the scotch loc that was used. The prior owner had used a scotch loc to tap the stock lp wire so that the push pump would cycle with the lp. That was a great idea execpt for the fact that the scotch loc over time had cut ALL the wires. . so now I had no fuel pressure. 45 minutes to correct the damage done by that stupid connector... .

I try to do the K. I. S. S. method...



Rick

 

[highgear]

hey stan i 'm looking for the fittings that go into the fuel filter and then out to the vp44 injector on my 99 ram i want to put a big fuel line system on i have the earl's 6an braded fuel line. the adapters i think are 12 x 1. 5 in all the inlet and outlets and then adapt to the 6an lines

 

[DieselMinded]

These Are Awesome ...



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DM

 

[EricBu12]

Heres what I have in my truck... ... Works very well... . have between 11 and 15 psi no matter what...



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[wlowe]

EricBu12



Is that check valve in your post a Carter. It looks a lot like the Carter I used for my bypass. I pulled the fuse for the pusher pump and the OEM pump pressure only dropped one psi below its normal pressure so the check offers very little resistance to flow. Got mine at Summit for $18.



Bill