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Pyro sensor on "600" ????

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I'm installing gauges and am a little concerned about the location of the pyro sensor on the "600" engine. It is on the vertical part of the manifold directly over the turbo.

1. Are magnetic bits and greased tap enough to keep chips out of harms way?

2. Is there a gasket between the manifold and turbo?



Older manifold location was horizontal and fallen chips could be recovered before they reached the turbo. Thanks in advance, Hank

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Photo of location
 
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I just drilled and tapped mine wed. i used small bits and took my time making the hole big enough. I also had a vacuum sucking the chips off the bit as i did it. once drilled and tapped i took a large magnet and put it on a long thin screw driver and put it in the hole to collect any chips that fell in, finish with a flashlight looking for anything else. Just don't drill close to the turbo.
 
HPagel said:
I'm installing gauges and am a little concerned about the location of the pyro sensor on the "600" engine. It is on the vertical part of the manifold directly over the turbo.

1. Are magnetic bits and greased tap enough to keep chips out of harms way?

2. Is there a gasket between the manifold and turbo?



Older manifold location was horizontal and fallen chips could be recovered before they reached the turbo. Thanks in advance, Hank

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Photo of location

Thanks Kevin, but it seems that any chips that drop will fall directly into the turbo. Can the manifold be seperated from the turbo so foil or paper can be placed between. Is there a gasket or machined surface.

It does look like a chip would just fall through the turbo to the exhaust without being a problem but I don't want to take a chance.
 
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I just drilled mine to the right of the stamped emblem you see in the pic. If you want to put it in your dot location i would only do that with the manifold off. The gasket i'm not sure on but would guess it to be a metallic type that would be able to take the heat. i have a pic but don't know how to get it on here. The mag drill bit, grease, and vacuum are good but i still don't trust it 100% that's why i put the magnetic screw driver in the hole.
 
Kevin, I considered your location but thought it would not show if there was a problem in the other four cylinders. Am I wrong in this theory???? It sure is easier to get to but I want to know what the whole engine is doing.
 
I can't tell for sure in your photo, but, it looks like your SPOT is pretty much in the center.

Don't drill in the center because there is a baffle there.

Drill to one side. I think in the rear half (behind the baffle) is better because everyone says the rear cylinders run a little hotter.
 
it picks up exhaust from the front 3 cylinders if you have the time taking the manifold off and putting it in a location like you have and see if there is a baffle temps might be a little different I just don't know if it would be worth the extra time unbolting all of it. The exhaust temp i have been watching today and it raises and cools off very quick. 0-70 runs on setting 3-3 get to about 1280.
 
I believe there is a baffle just to the right of where you intend to drill. That being the case, you'll still only pick up the EGT from the rear three cylinders. I installed mine sort of in the middle of the manifold, probably where KevinO installed his. I wasn't concerned about which cylinders fed the pyro.



I was real concerned about chips getting into the turbo, so I:



- Put grease in the flutes of the drill bits (don't think this helped much, the grease mostly melted off)

- Put grease in the flutes of the tap, this helped some

- Bought an extendable magnet from Sears that fit into the hole, got lots of chips out with it

- Put duct tape over the tailpipe and started the engine for a few seconds. Lots of air blowing out the pyro hole, gotta believe any chips blew out the hole.



In the end, everyrhing worked just fine.



Scott
 
Unless you have some large chunks of metal, a few small flakes will simply blow right through the turbine wheel. They probably won't even get caught in the cat.
 
with my guage I recived a small brass (I think)fitting my question is does the EGT sensor go inside manifold or does it stay inside the brass fitting
 
I did the install like KevinO and SSchang. I have the Dipricol kit from Geno's Garage. I get readings up to 1400 deg off the first three with a 3/3 setting running up to 90 MPH. The pyro needle moves pretty freely. Almost as fast as the tac on 5/5. I did not drill into the dot. I drilled about 1/2" to the side of the dot. I also measured several times to make sure the end of the sensor was as close to the center of the inside of the exhuast manifold so that I would not pick up metal temp readings. I'm sure my readings are a little high from the flame factor, but that's my buffer between running safe and meltdown.
 
Hey Hank. ;) Don't do what I did and snap the drill bit! :(



After taking off my turbo, I found there is an internal wall center to the outlet of the manifold (right before turbo). This wall keeps the air flow separate from the front to rear cylinders. So, your dot seems right but you'd still only be getting the temp from the rear cylinders. If you drill on the other side of the centerline, you'd be getting the front temp. If you drill direct center you'd hit the wall and screw everything up. :eek:



My suggestion is simply to drill on the top of the manifold right before it starts to neck/bend down to the turbo. 1) Its much easier to drill as it's very accessible and 2) nothing to gain by drilling down below by the turbo.



If you need any help just let me know. I'd be happy to give ya' a hand! :D
 
When the guys from HotRodDiesels.com installed my pryo they dropped to turbo from exhaust. Put cardboard shield between. Drilled the exhaust manifold on top. Used magnet to remove any shavings. Started long enough to blow any left over shavings out. Reconnected the turbo. Seems like a lot of trouble, but very safe.
 
lcrawford said:
with my guage I recived a small brass (I think)fitting my question is does the EGT sensor go inside manifold or does it stay inside the brass fitting



If it's Brass (Yellow in color) and it has a small male thread on one end and a larger male thread on the other, and you got a boost gage as well, that's a "boost bolt". You use that for a boost gage.



If its silver in color and has male threads on one end and female threads on the other that's a 1/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT adapter for the pyrometer thermocouple. Brass should never be used in the exhaust side as the temps are too high for brass fittings.



Juan
 
Pyro Pre-Drill Insurance

For HPagel and others looking for a little extra insurance he won't damage his turbo with his pyro install:



I unbolted my turbo from the exhaust maniforld flange. Separated it as far as it would go (about 0. 5 ") and cut a piece of thin plastic sheeting to slide over the turbo inlet between the bolts. When I drilled, a lot of metal fell down on the plastic. I vacummed it, then deburred the inside of the hole after tapping it. Vacuumed again and bolted everything back together. A few extra steps, but I was 99. 9% sure no metal was going into my turbo.



FWIW,

Joe



P. S. The hottest cylinder temps are in the rear cylinders. Since you have no place to put your pyro pre-turbo that will pickup all cyclinders (divider in manifold prevents this) isn't it best to monitor the hottest exhaust temps?

P. S. 2. HPagel, good location. When you unbolt the exhaust flange and open her up, you will be able to find the exact center of that port.



Good Luck and keep us posted on your install.
 
HPagel. I recently installed the pyro from my BD X-monitor. I've never done one before and I'm certainly not a mechanic. I jacked the front end up, removed the tire and wheelwell liner giving You a straight shot at the exhaust manifold. My pyro is exactly where you want to install yours. I loosened up the turbo and lowered it a bit, enough to slip a piece of cardboard (from a cereal box) between the manifold and turbo. Drilled the hole and tapped it. I looked up in the TDR about pyro installations and got valuable info. My pyro probe had a long probe and one of the guys here said to not tap too far into the manifold because the probe will hit the back wall of the manifold. I would have never thought of that! I can't remember how many turns of the tap you want to go in but, that info. is available and is very important. I, then, took an air hose and blew the metal chips off the cardboard, tightened everything back up and was on my way. The cardboard trick works! There is one bolt holding the turbo on that is a little tough to get to but, not impossible. Hope this helps. Joe. PS- If memory serves me right, theYou want to be able to turn the pyro 3-1/2 turns into the manifold when it's tight. I'm not positive about this , so check it out. Maybe someone can chime in with accurate info.
 
Thanks to all for your advice. I have not decided on location yet but I will play it safe and drop the turbo first. (NJT's saga made up my mind on that :rolleyes: ) Once I can see or feel the inside of the manifold I will choose the location of the sensor. Most likely taking temps from rear three. Gino's had my gauges on back order but they should be here for install next weekend. At least the nerf bars went on easy today ... that's one thing on my list done.

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