Pyrometer probe installation

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I'm getting ready (fixn' to, as they say in the south)to drill the exhaust manifold for the EGT probe. Instructions call for disconnecting at the end of the manifold and plugging with a rag in order to prevent any metal filings from entering the turbo. I have several questiions. 1) Will I have to do anything other than remove the four bolts that secure the turbo to the exhaust manifold? That is, will I be able to move the turbo enough to insert the rag after just removing the four bolts, or will other "things" have to be loosened or removed before I have room for inserting the rag? 2) Must the gasket be replaced, or can the existing one be re-used? If a new one is required, does anyone know the part number? I would appreciate any help from anyone with experience in this exercise.

 

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Check the archives for posts on this one. Most people who do this just grease up the drill bit to catch the chips and then use a pencil magnet to collect the strays. If any are left they go out the tail pipe with no problems as far as I know. My pyro is installed post-turbo in my PacBrake.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Do the best you can to get all of the chips. You wont want any of them getting into your turbo.

 

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Thanks for your help, guys. I'll check the archives for other posts, but would welcome any other responses from interested TDR folks.

 

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I am in Modesto if you need any help email me

I have done a few

 

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gchas,

I wouldn`t bother taking off the turbo. Get a strong shop vac, put the nozzle right down where you are drilling. Put the nozzle directly over the hole when done to try to get chips that might escaped the vacuum. Use grease on the tap and use a pencil magnet to get any remaining chips. Stick the shop vac nozzle over the tapped hole and suck again. This is how I did mine. No problems.

IMO, A couple stray metal chips won`t hurt anything going thru the turbo at startup. (IF ANY did miss the vacuum. I doubt it)


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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 11-11-2000). ]

 

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Did mine, pre-turbo. Grease the bit, (and the tap), shop-vac the filings out, no problem-o! Just go S-L-O-W!! Fourteen thousand miles since my install.

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'96 Regular Cab, 113. 5K, SLT 2WD auto 3. 54, Vista topper, Pillar-mounted Autometer Boost/Pyro, transmission temp and oil pressure guages under dash, starwheel spun

 

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Did mine last year. Use lots of cutting oil on the bit and tap. Go SLOW. I can not overstate this. Take your time and do not use a high speed drill or at least use a variable speed one with caution. I used a pencil magnet to get out the shavings and there were three real good loads with smaller loads untill it came out clean.

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96 2500 4x4 Driftwood auto Waren 4x boards pyro,boost,trans temp on a piller mag hytec trans

 

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Thanks loads, guys. Your responses and sound advise is much appreciated. What a team!!!

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'97 Ext. Cab 2WD 33K mi,5 Sp Man 4. 10

 

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gchas,

I removed my turbo when I did mine a few weeks ago. Not really that big 'a deal. 4 bolts on the manifold, 2 on the exhaust (elbow to exhaust pipe), 2 for the oil supply tube, the oil return line, the wastegate line (small spring clamp) and the air intake tube. Lifted the whole turbo out and looked it over. The only buggers are one or two of the 4 manifold bolts (the lower ones). They can be hard to see. Reused all gaskets (metal manifold to turbo, composite oil supply tube - no leaks so far). This way I made sure there was nothing left behind in the manifold. Gives you a little better idea on where to drill the hole. I was amazed on how small the manifold outlet was with the web down the middle.

JGK

 

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Did mine pre-turbo, did not unbolt anything, used air to blow chips away, magnet, greased tap, use magnet again,,, no problem, just go slow, use cutting oil when drilling.

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, ISSPRO EGT Boost transmission Temp, GUTTED CAT, 150,000+ Miles still goin' strong, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

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I am happy to report the the pyrometer has been successfully installed and appears to be working well. We installed it before the turbo without removing it. Used lots of grease on drills and taps (all of which we magnatized before using), a strong shop vac and we used a pencil magnet afterwards but found nothing inside. Thanks for all the advise. Couldn't have done it without your help. As an aside, the boost gauge seems to to reading low. At 55mph on level ground (unloaded), it only show about 3 PSI. No kinks and no apparent leaks in line. Is this normal? What are some the readings at various speeds and loads that your getting with the ISSPRO boost gauge?

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'97 Ext. Cab 2WD 33K mi,5 Sp Man 4. 10, ISSPRO Pyrometer & Boost